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Old 10-28-2007, 02:13 PM   #4411
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Sean - Do you recommend the ITF chassis for SIR's carpet? I am currently running the ITF topdeck without o-rings. I have tried to use the ITF chassis with o-rings in the 4 inner-most topdeck screws but the flex in the chassis seems to introduce some chassis tweak. What would be your recommended chassis/topdeck choice?

Thanks, Pete
I would be running the ITF chassis and top deck....and I would probably start with a one-way and the o-ring trick on the 4 rear screws...basically, the Juho setup....
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Old 10-28-2007, 06:32 PM   #4412
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This could be several things. First, are all tires the same size? Are the front Toe degree settings equal? Is your steering centered? Do all the steering components move freely, no binding? You might to lightly sand/file on the steering knuckles and C-Hub's to get the them to move freely. As for the servo, with the power off, does the steering easily move from right to left, and then back with the slight touch of your finger?

Also, I found the servo saver tube and bearing fitments to be just a little loose, as well as the tube to server saver plastic parts, causing a little slop in the steering. I used a little piece of tape in parts of the server save to take out the slop.
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I had a similar problem, and it wasnt the servo saver, it checked out fine. All I ended up doing is loosening the opposite side rear shock collar a turn or less.
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I had the same problem b4bandit.I saw like the rear end wanted to pass the front, and that produced this kind of rare-steering. After change all the things you can imagine it was one of the hub bearing that was stopped and braked this side of the car.

Sorry for my english....
Thanks fellas, some good advice. I'll check everything and see if I can get it sorted
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Old 10-28-2007, 06:32 PM   #4413
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b4bandit - check to make sure your droop is the same on both sides, that may cause the issue you are having.

Ran the AE spool for the first time this weekend. Rough start because i did not loctite the screws and they all fell out , but after that, ran 6 races and 2 practice runs and the blades are still brand new. ran the peak 4.5 w/ gtb speedo, if anyone is wearing out blades, your doing something wrong.
-
the car was dialed all weekend, ran the cavaleri setup from the nats, only diff was a little toe out was added to the front and ran cs-27 tires. running itf chassis/top plate and 4 o-rings in the back of the top plate
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:41 PM   #4414
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Default top plate washers

A little help. I installed shock washer then a concave washer and screwed her in. The washer sunk into the countersink. Is this to tight or am i messing some thing up?
Thanks
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:11 AM   #4415
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Thanks Sean. I will put the ITF chassis back on and test it out this Saturday at SIR.

Pete
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:25 AM   #4416
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Has any one tryed to remove every 2nd tooth on the 40T pully. like Tamiya has done?
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:16 PM   #4417
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Default Alternatives to the Front Drive Belt

I did search for the front belt tooth count and didnt get any results. So does anyone know the front belt tooth count for the TC5? Thanks!

Or has anyone tried a different belt in the front (besides the team bomber belt).
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:09 PM   #4418
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I just clipped every other tooth on the belt. Seemed to help loosen things up a bit.
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Old 10-30-2007, 10:11 PM   #4419
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Hebiki: i counted 172 tooth and im driving a std. yokomo front belt
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Old 10-31-2007, 01:00 AM   #4420
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I think itīs alot of better move the diff hubs rather than cut anything.....
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Old 10-31-2007, 05:52 AM   #4421
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Or has anyone tried a different belt in the front (besides the team bomber belt).
I have the standard Yokomo BD(non bomber) front belt in my car and it works fine.
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:16 AM   #4422
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Old 10-31-2007, 01:22 PM   #4423
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Default Tooth Count

thanks everybody!
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Old 11-02-2007, 09:46 AM   #4424
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Well, Titanium racing burned me again. I'm posting me rant here because this time it was the new tc5 one piece layshaft. I thought, it's one piece, they couldn't mess that upp...could they?. Well, after waiting two weeks for it to get here from the UK, I went to install it. Spur gear went on a little tight but not big issue. Then I took the pins out of the old layshaft and went to pop them in the new one. Changing the layshaft should have taken 10 minutes except the pins don't fit. After fifteen minutes of trying to force them in I realize the holes are just way too small and will need to be drilled out. Since the manual doesn't state the size of the pin i start going through all my drill bits trying to find one the size of the pin. No luck. I'm not going to bore you with the details of my quest for the right size bit, but two hours later I'm back at home with the right bit. I drill out the first hole and I'm able to press fit the pin with some needle nose pliers. Cool. So now I drill out the second and third holes when I realize...third hole? Looking at the stock shaft, the third hole was supposed to be a slot for the E clip. After looking at it for a minute I thought I could just force in another pin and use that to hold the pulleys in place instead of the E clip. Two problems though...one the pin needs to fit under the blue cap and needs to be dremeled down to fit under and two (the bigger problem) the placement of the third hole is in a spot where the pulley covers about 20% of it. Not a lot but enough to make it really difficult to get the pin in. After fighting with it for 20 more minutes, I decided the pulley was pretty snugly on the shaft already and shouldn't move to much and the blue cap should help keep it from moving too much so I through it back in the car as is.

Anyway, No more TiR products for me. I'm tired of their poorly engineered products and bad R&D. I've been burned for the last time. TiR, get your act together.
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:02 PM   #4425
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Well, Titanium racing burned me again. I'm posting me rant here because this time it was the new tc5 one piece layshaft. I thought, it's one piece, they couldn't mess that upp...could they?. Well, after waiting two weeks for it to get here from the UK, I went to install it. Spur gear went on a little tight but not big issue. Then I took the pins out of the old layshaft and went to pop them in the new one. Changing the layshaft should have taken 10 minutes except the pins don't fit. After fifteen minutes of trying to force them in I realize the holes are just way too small and will need to be drilled out. Since the manual doesn't state the size of the pin i start going through all my drill bits trying to find one the size of the pin. No luck. I'm not going to bore you with the details of my quest for the right size bit, but two hours later I'm back at home with the right bit. I drill out the first hole and I'm able to press fit the pin with some needle nose pliers. Cool. So now I drill out the second and third holes when I realize...third hole? Looking at the stock shaft, the third hole was supposed to be a slot for the E clip. After looking at it for a minute I thought I could just force in another pin and use that to hold the pulleys in place instead of the E clip. Two problems though...one the pin needs to fit under the blue cap and needs to be dremeled down to fit under and two (the bigger problem) the placement of the third hole is in a spot where the pulley covers about 20% of it. Not a lot but enough to make it really difficult to get the pin in. After fighting with it for 20 more minutes, I decided the pulley was pretty snugly on the shaft already and shouldn't move to much and the blue cap should help keep it from moving too much so I through it back in the car as is.

Anyway, No more TiR products for me. I'm tired of their poorly engineered products and bad R&D. I've been burned for the last time. TiR, get your act together.
hopefully AE releases their own version and it has the proper holes for the pins, etc.
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