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Old 10-17-2007, 10:34 PM   #4306
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On the stock set up it calls for 1 shim on the arm mounts front and rear. How does this cause the care to react? Thanks
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:54 PM   #4307
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I sure have...the left rear especially. Running 3 deg toe, and using longer screw WITH thread lock and still lost the shims again last night. I guess I just need to check every run...period.
Its usually the ones with more shims under them that loosen up, right? You can try replacing the screws with some longer ones ( I use 12mm ). I havent had much problems with rubber tires but with foams they will loosen up a lot quicker.
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:55 AM   #4308
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On the stock set up it calls for 1 shim on the arm mounts front and rear. How does this cause the care to react? Thanks
On the rear you want to run shims in the rear arm mount but generally not in the rear front mount,

you want to aim for about 2.5 to 3 degrees of rear toe which will lock in the rear. I did this step late at night when probably should have been in bed and ended up putting shims at the front and back which resulted in 0 degrees and the car on rubbers was really hooky in turns. After correcting it The three degrees worked a treat.
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:16 AM   #4309
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On the rear you want to run shims in the rear arm mount but generally not in the rear front mount,

you want to aim for about 2.5 to 3 degrees of rear toe which will lock in the rear. I did this step late at night when probably should have been in bed and ended up putting shims at the front and back which resulted in 0 degrees and the car on rubbers was really hooky in turns. After correcting it The three degrees worked a treat.
Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:21 AM   #4310
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Its usually the ones with more shims under them that loosen up, right? You can try replacing the screws with some longer ones ( I use 12mm ). I havent had much problems with rubber tires but with foams they will loosen up a lot quicker.
You've got it. And only the left side (for me), rear mount. I already have the 12mm longs in there, and the blue AE thread lock. Didn't lose the screw, but loosened enough in 3 runs to drop the shims again.

Must be the amount of shim and the fact the angle doesn't allow the screw head to seat very flat.
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Old 10-18-2007, 01:59 PM   #4311
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You've got it. And only the left side (for me), rear mount. I already have the 12mm longs in there, and the blue AE thread lock. Didn't lose the screw, but loosened enough in 3 runs to drop the shims again.

Must be the amount of shim and the fact the angle doesn't allow the screw head to seat very flat.
Yeah mine is the left also its driven me nuts....I am gonna try the longer screw....I wish they would make all the shims out of titanium or aluminum...the blue would be eaiser to find
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:22 PM   #4312
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Wouldn't the aluminum XRAY shims work?
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:59 PM   #4313
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On the stock set up it calls for 1 shim on the arm mounts front and rear. How does this cause the care to react? Thanks
By adding more shims to the front end of the car (making it wider) the car will be more tame, easier to drive, but lose overall steering. By removing shims, the front end becomes narrower which causes the car to have more steering through the corner.

By adding shims to the rear of the arm mounts in the rear of the car, this creates more toe in. More rear toe will usually give the car more rear traction. You should never need to go more than 3 deg of rear toe for most applications and usually never less than 1.5 deg.
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:33 PM   #4314
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Just got my new orion 10.5. I was using the gearchart.com but I dont think its right. I found a 94t 64p spur. Im trying to get to around 5.5 ratio. The 94t spur is smaller than the stock 87t 48p. Any how does anyone have any idea what would be a good starting point for the 94t 64p spur for the 10.5 orion. Thanks in advance
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:58 PM   #4315
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My buddy that works for Orion told me to start at about 5.0 fdr. Thats why i went 112/44. I would start with a 37 or 36 pinion. By the way who makes the 94 spur you are running?
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:06 PM   #4316
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Im using a yokomo with two screws for now. I think I might switch to the stock 87. Does everyone have slop in the spur gear holder?
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:36 PM   #4317
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It sounds like it to me. I am going to see if i can get my wifes cousin to make me an aluminum one at his machine shop.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:41 PM   #4318
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Default TOOO SLOOOOOW!!!

My problem is that my car can't keep itself on the track right at the 90 degree turn after the straight away. right before the turn I let off the throttle and make the turn and then there the car goes and flips on its left side? Everything else feels okay though. Atleast I feels like it does.

Not sure if its my driving or what it can also be that though.
(I need to practice more) I think I'm running to soft. Does that sound right? It feels that I am going to slow around the turns. Seems like I have to let off the throttle way before a turn just to make it safely.

I'm running SILVER springs on the Rear and BLUE on the fronts. I was thinking of changing the rears to RED. RP 30s all the way around. What should I do differently?
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:54 PM   #4319
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Originally Posted by Renuco612 View Post
My problem is that my car can't keep itself on the track right at the 90 degree turn after the straight away. right before the turn I let off the throttle and make the turn and then there the car goes and flips on its left side? Everything else feels okay though. Atleast I feels like it does.

Not sure if its my driving or what it can also be that though.
(I need to practice more) I think I'm running to soft. Does that sound right? It feels that I am going to slow around the turns. Seems like I have to let off the throttle way before a turn just to make it safely.

I'm running SILVER springs on the Rear and BLUE on the fronts. I was thinking of changing the rears to RED. RP 30s all the way around. What should I do differently?

What oil do you have in your shocks?

Look in my pics at the top. I have blue fronts, silver rear, RP30's, parking lot track with 150ft straigt into a hard right, then technical track. Car was smooth, and fast. I used a spool in the front, 40 wt in ft, and 25 in rear. Kit sway bars, kit shock positions, kit roll center, ROAR weight, meaning lots of added weight on the right side of the car, and balanced.
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:35 PM   #4320
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Originally Posted by Renuco612 View Post
My problem is that my car can't keep itself on the track right at the 90 degree turn after the straight away. right before the turn I let off the throttle and make the turn and then there the car goes and flips on its left side? Everything else feels okay though. Atleast I feels like it does.

Not sure if its my driving or what it can also be that though.
(I need to practice more) I think I'm running to soft. Does that sound right? It feels that I am going to slow around the turns. Seems like I have to let off the throttle way before a turn just to make it safely.

I'm running SILVER springs on the Rear and BLUE on the fronts. I was thinking of changing the rears to RED. RP 30s all the way around. What should I do differently?
If your car is flipping it's either too stiff or the rollcenters are too high. I posted a setup on the previous page from the ISW race. Everybody's cars were flipping there. Maybe give it a try. Also check your camber, droop rideheight and tweak if the car only flipping to one side.
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