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Old 09-23-2007, 07:21 AM   #4036
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Thanks very much
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Old 09-23-2007, 10:45 AM   #4037
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The car will work with the stock parts as well. So you don't have to go out and buy that to make the car work.
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Old 09-23-2007, 01:18 PM   #4038
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kraig are you running the ITF stuff
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Old 09-23-2007, 01:48 PM   #4039
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The car will work with the stock parts as well. So you don't have to go out and buy that to make the car work.
This is very true. I'm running the stock stuff except for a one-way, softer springs and 6-degree front hubs. The car is a rocket and very hooked up, with just enough looseness to be fast around the corners.

I run stock rubber with TakeOff CS22s on all four corners.

Had an awesome practice/race day today and was able to try a few different things. I'm not sure the ITF decks are really necessary to make this car fast. I know that the Corally RDX fast guys ended up using the thicker foam chassis for their hot setups, allowing the suspension to do all the work.
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Old 09-23-2007, 05:23 PM   #4040
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wallstreet, no I am not.
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:59 PM   #4041
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are you going to in the future ?
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:47 PM   #4042
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Only if you are going to buy them for me.

Honestly, I don't forsee running them in the near future but I wouldn't rule it out. I am going to try some other changes to the car to see if I can get it like I want it. We both know where it is at right now.
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:56 PM   #4043
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Default Wobbling TC5

I get this funny vibration and rattling when I let the car go full throttle and turn left and right at 100% EPA. I tried putting it on a work stand and tried it that way but I still hear it. the only time I don't hear it was when I adjusted the steering down to 30% EPA.

So I took off the steering horn and tried it without the wheels moving but just the servo turning and and now everything sounds good. No rattling and No vibration. Once i attached the servo horn again it did it again.

I checked and theres nothing rubbing on anything or atleast thats what I see. Can someone please help me.

I took off the front wheels and set the Steering EPA at 100% and this time I don't get the wobbling and rattling sound. But once I put the wheels back on I get the wobbling and rattling again. So then I have to set the Steering EPA back at 30% or lower.
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:50 AM   #4044
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Hi everbody,
I have just finish putting together the kit, and it seems to me the front belt is to tight ? Has any body drill additional slots on the cam to loosen it up a bit more, or does it free up with a few runs,

I will be given the car its first run tomorrow night ( stock on carpet)
For the life of me could not fiqure out how to get the shocks together with all them foam spacers ?? so i took them out .

cheers
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Old 09-24-2007, 05:55 AM   #4045
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renuco - The rattling is normal. It happens to mine too. You're just pushing the CVD up to its angle limit

revsinc - The belts will loosen up as you run your car, the drivetrain on my car is pretty free. I've only run it for about 10-12 runs
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:22 AM   #4046
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Hi everbody,
I have just finish putting together the kit, and it seems to me the front belt is to tight ? Has any body drill additional slots on the cam to loosen it up a bit more, or does it free up with a few runs,

I will be given the car its first run tomorrow night ( stock on carpet)
For the life of me could not fiqure out how to get the shocks together with all them foam spacers ?? so i took them out .

cheers
You should be able to adjust the belt tightness enough to make it looser than the kit instructions, and some runtime will help them get looser too.

As for the shocks, those silly instructions aren't very clear. I think you run one or the other, not both. BUT most carpet setups I've seen are not running any foam on the shocks (no rebound). I've been running mine without the foam and it works good.
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:07 AM   #4047
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yokomo BD-516L Front Drive Belt (Low Friction Type)=replacement for front belt

Yokomo USA has these if nobody else has them, which seemed to be the case last week.

As far as the shocks, I have HPI bladders in mine, and they work fine. I have no foam right now. The stock bladders are big, and sometimes I think it makes it hard to assemble the shocks. I imagine any bladder like Tamiya, HPI, Yokomo etc. could be used. Just don't use Corally, they are not very good, too soft IMO.
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:00 PM   #4048
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You should be able to adjust the belt tightness enough to make it looser than the kit instructions, and some runtime will help them get looser too.

As for the shocks, those silly instructions aren't very clear. I think you run one or the other, not both. BUT most carpet setups I've seen are not running any foam on the shocks (no rebound). I've been running mine without the foam and it works good.

I had my belts set on the loosest possible setting and the front was still twangy-tight. I ended up manually stretching it out by pulling it and it is now at a tollerable looseness on the loosest settings. The back one was fine, though.

That being said, two other guys I race with had no issues with their belts being tight, and mine is setup exactly like theirs for tightness.
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:06 AM   #4049
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hey i have a quick question. my dad was mounting a mazda speed 6 and to get wheet clearence we had to go way up on the fender? has anyone else had this probblem or are you just retarted?
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:17 AM   #4050
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hey i have a quick question. my dad was mounting a mazda speed 6 and to get wheet clearence we had to go way up on the fender? has anyone else had this probblem or are you just retarted?
The body lines for the wheels/fenders are just a guideline. They will have be adjusted for each car differently depending on right height, type or tires used, wheelbase and width.
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