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Old 09-12-2007, 06:17 AM   #3916
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Originally Posted by G2B Anthony View Post
Does anyone know how thick is the TC5 inner hinge pin?
The inner hinge pins are 3.0mm. After 3-months of racing, I have yet to bend one.
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:39 AM   #3917
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The car is very durable... I've been running it hard for the past 7 weeks with no issues.
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Old 09-12-2007, 01:21 PM   #3918
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Has anyone had any issues with the rear hubs adding or subtracting toe? I built mine and the left side of my car ended up having almost positive toe when using the stock suggested 2 degree shims on both sides.

My solution until I get some new parts to try is that I'm running 3 degrees worth of shims on the left and 1 degree on the right. The result is very close to 1.5 degrees on both sides.

I'm also interested in aluminum rear hubs, mainly to try and keep both sides even. Molded parts suck.
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Old 09-12-2007, 01:43 PM   #3919
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I hope some company out there will come out with hubs, caster blocks and steering knuckles in AL. That would be sweet.
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Old 09-12-2007, 02:53 PM   #3920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboT View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the rear hubs adding or subtracting toe? I built mine and the left side of my car ended up having almost positive toe when using the stock suggested 2 degree shims on both sides.

My solution until I get some new parts to try is that I'm running 3 degrees worth of shims on the left and 1 degree on the right. The result is very close to 1.5 degrees on both sides.

I'm also interested in aluminum rear hubs, mainly to try and keep both sides even. Molded parts suck.
stock rear hubs? or .5 or 1 deg ones. I would suggest taking it all apart again and checking nothing is bent.

if your using the rear 0 deg hubs then you defo have an issue.
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Old 09-12-2007, 02:55 PM   #3921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboT View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the rear hubs adding or subtracting toe? I built mine and the left side of my car ended up having almost positive toe when using the stock suggested 2 degree shims on both sides.

My solution until I get some new parts to try is that I'm running 3 degrees worth of shims on the left and 1 degree on the right. The result is very close to 1.5 degrees on both sides.

I'm also interested in aluminum rear hubs, mainly to try and keep both sides even. Molded parts suck.
Does the toe change if you flip the hubs from side to side? Are they new hubs? I havent seen any new hubs that arent right so far. Sometimes you bend them in big crashes though. The holes are molded and not drilled so they should be pretty accurate.

Also make sure the arm mounts are not backwards?
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Old 09-12-2007, 04:14 PM   #3922
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Hi everyone

I'm very very close to getting a TC5, basically I want to know what option parts are worth having, and what spares its worth keeping a few of (guessing wishbones, hubs etc?... anything else?)

Also, since I've only had cars with english size screws, what allen and nut drivers will I need?

Thanks
Oli, UK
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Old 09-12-2007, 04:36 PM   #3923
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i would definitly get some extras of the plastic part of the shock caps
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Old 09-12-2007, 05:12 PM   #3924
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For metric, you need 1.5mm and 2.0mm hex drivers.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:00 PM   #3925
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Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Hi everyone

I'm very very close to getting a TC5, basically I want to know what option parts are worth having, and what spares its worth keeping a few of (guessing wishbones, hubs etc?... anything else?)

Also, since I've only had cars with english size screws, what allen and nut drivers will I need?

Thanks
Oli, UK
also get a 2mm ball driver when you can.....for the inner hinge-pin mounts..
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:19 PM   #3926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Hi everyone

I'm very very close to getting a TC5, basically I want to know what option parts are worth having, and what spares its worth keeping a few of (guessing wishbones, hubs etc?... anything else?)

Also, since I've only had cars with english size screws, what allen and nut drivers will I need?

Thanks
Oli, UK
Spare Parts

I highly recommend you get the following spare parts if you are going to be racing:

Caster Blocks - get 3+ sets, each side is specific - 4-degree = AE Part# 31212
Steering Blocks - get 3+ sets, each side is specific
Rear Hubs - get 2+ sets, 0-degree will work on either side
Front and Rear Suspension Arms - 1 set each - AE Part # 31205 & 31206
Silver Ball Studs 8mm Long - AE Part # 31284
Ball Stud Spacers - they get lost - AE Part # 31286
Diff Outdrives - 1+ sets - AE Part # 31167
Bearings - 6x10x4mm wheel bearings - hitting the boards = toasted bearings
Arm Mount Nuts - I have had two of these pull apart - AE Part # 31197
Arm Mounts - they will break, and extras are not included - AE Part # 31195
Wheel Base Shims - If you break, this might get lost - AE Part # 31200
Hinge Pins - Inner and Outer - AE Part # 31221 & 31222
Extra Screws - RC Screws will give you lots of extras when lost or bent

Tools

The following tools are recommended:

2mm Ball Hex Driver - a MUST HAVE to service the suspension arms
2mm Hex Driver - high quality non-ball with replaceable tip - main tool 90% of screws
7mm Nut Driver - for the wheel nuts
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:25 PM   #3927
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Heads up on shock caps:

I thought I bought a shock cap set, in the manual, they listed it as 31120 next to the picture of the cap where you assemble the shocks. I got the package today and it is only the shock rebuild kit, no shock caps. I dug a little deeper and shock caps 31121, not 31120 as listed.
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Old 09-12-2007, 08:23 PM   #3928
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
Heads up on shock caps:

I thought I bought a shock cap set, in the manual, they listed it as 31120 next to the picture of the cap where you assemble the shocks. I got the package today and it is only the shock rebuild kit, no shock caps. I dug a little deeper and shock caps 31121, not 31120 as listed.
Heck, if we want to go there, the AE TC5 manual states the wheel bearings are 6x10x3mm bearings, but they are actually 6x10x4mm.

I like the TC5, but I would love to work for AE and go through each new kit and manual and QA/proof/correct things, add building tips along the way, and explain what each adjustments effects will have on the kit during the building process, not at the end. This is something the TC5 only touches on, and all of it is at the end of the build.
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Old 09-12-2007, 08:37 PM   #3929
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I hope some company out there will come out with hubs, caster blocks and steering knuckles in AL. That would be sweet.
I heard Team Tamale might be making these.... You may want to check with him. If he is not currently making them it might be something he would be interested in....
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Old 09-12-2007, 08:48 PM   #3930
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Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
Heck, if we want to go there, the AE TC5 manual states the wheel bearings are 6x10x3mm bearings, but they are actually 6x10x4mm.

I like the TC5, but I would love to work for AE and go through each new kit and manual and QA/proof/correct things, add building tips along the way, and explain what each adjustments effects will have on the kit during the building process, not at the end. This is something the TC5 only touches on, and all of it is at the end of the build.
I just measured a front wheel bearing on my TC5 and it is 3mm thick. The manual is correct.
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