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Old 08-02-2007, 04:53 PM   #3496
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Is there a P-dub bumper available for the TC5?
I spoke with paul back in june and he stated he was going to make one, but i haven't seen him since then.
you can send a pm to "pw" and he will let you know if he has one
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:01 PM   #3497
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tower is now showing late august for the alum diff and spool.
this is the third month in a row it has changed eta's
-
I have had these on order for almost 2 months now, is there a more definitive eta on when these will ship.
Thanks
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Old 08-02-2007, 06:16 PM   #3498
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Originally Posted by dbmartin View Post
tower is now showing late august for the alum diff and spool.
this is the third month in a row it has changed eta's
-
I have had these on order for almost 2 months now, is there a more definitive eta on when these will ship.
Thanks
I just checked and it says early august for both items.

Steve
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Old 08-02-2007, 06:35 PM   #3499
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Yes I did. Virgin run this weekend on the car.
And like a virgin ...it's probably gonna hurt j/k good luck this weekend, we'll be doing confined dives this weekend ...this diving thing is looking more and more fun the more we learn about it ...hmmm ...new hobby
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Old 08-02-2007, 10:18 PM   #3500
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Just a heads up, for you guys going to run the Aluminum Out drives in the TC5, you will also need the CVA Blades #31238, cost is $3.99 for 8 and you should keep and eye on them at they are wearing part and have to be replaced every so often.

how about for the spool? would it also require blades? thanks....
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:12 AM   #3501
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51,

Sent you a PM, I hope that works for you. It doesn't appear to be live updates, but it does refresh after the run is complete.


Steve
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:59 AM   #3502
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I'm currently rebuilding a TC5 that I bought used. When attaching the arms, the arms arent falling freely. Im using all the same arm mount blocks (2 dots). Could it be my wheelbase spacers are a little on the thick side?

Also, on the aluminum bulkheads, on aluminum bulkheads, was the middle chassis mount hole tapped after anodizing? Theyre all silver on my bulkheads and one of them has a really tight fit.

This is my first electric TC (been racing nitro TC's for years) and im happy with the quality and on par with my Mugen. Parts count is way low compared to the nitro TC too, I couldnt believe i took the entire car apart in about 15 min.

So whens the NTC5 coming out
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Old 08-03-2007, 08:06 AM   #3503
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And like a virgin ...it's probably gonna hurt j/k good luck this weekend, we'll be doing confined dives this weekend ...this diving thing is looking more and more fun the more we learn about it ...hmmm ...new hobby
Now thats some funny stuff right there!!!

Summer Sizz next weekend...
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:48 AM   #3504
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
I'm currently rebuilding a TC5 that I bought used. When attaching the arms, the arms arent falling freely. Im using all the same arm mount blocks (2 dots). Could it be my wheelbase spacers are a little on the thick side?

Also, on the aluminum bulkheads, on aluminum bulkheads, was the middle chassis mount hole tapped after anodizing? Theyre all silver on my bulkheads and one of them has a really tight fit.

This is my first electric TC (been racing nitro TC's for years) and im happy with the quality and on par with my Mugen. Parts count is way low compared to the nitro TC too, I couldnt believe i took the entire car apart in about 15 min.

So whens the NTC5 coming out
It could be helpful if you could take and post some pics of the bulkheads...they shouldn't be tapped at all. The screw goes through the bulkhead and threads in to the blue nut that holds on the arm mount.

As for the tight arm...i know it sounds strange, but try tapping the arm to "set" it in to place...I usually hit right on the ballstud where the shock attaches with my wrench. If it's still tight, try sanding the arm mount spacers with a nail file. Remember, there should only be 1x1mm and 1x2mm shim spacing the arms front to back.

Were you able to get the manual with the used kit?
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:11 PM   #3505
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Thanks for the tip and I did recieve a manual with the kit,

I think you're thinking about the arm mount holes being tapped. Those are completely fine. The screw holes im talking about are the 3 holes in the bulkhead that attach the bulkhead to the chassis.

The hole in the middle of all 4 bulkheads are silver instead of blue and seem like they've been tapped after anodizing. One of the holes seems really tight but after inspection, it doesnt look crossthreaded. Just wondering if it just needs to be cleaned out a little bit.
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:45 PM   #3506
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one-way just came in...
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:47 PM   #3507
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I have a problem with one of my dampers. Just one, the others are fine.
It is leaking a lot. After a 5 minute run there is a drop of oil below the piston rod
How can i rebuild the damper, how can i get out this cartridge without destroying it? Has anyone already maintained his dampers?

Other question: if it won't work, would TRF dampers maybe fit?

Thanks for replies...
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:43 PM   #3508
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I get to run my TC5 tomorrow.....


51- Thanks for all the info at the nats. Tomorrow I will try to be the black Ryan C......ha ha ha ha ha
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:45 PM   #3509
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
Thanks for the tip and I did recieve a manual with the kit,

I think you're thinking about the arm mount holes being tapped. Those are completely fine. The screw holes im talking about are the 3 holes in the bulkhead that attach the bulkhead to the chassis.

The hole in the middle of all 4 bulkheads are silver instead of blue and seem like they've been tapped after anodizing. One of the holes seems really tight but after inspection, it doesnt look crossthreaded. Just wondering if it just needs to be cleaned out a little bit.
Got'cha. Most likely the owner before you put some loctite or superglue or something else in there to help keep the screw in. I would suggest getting a new screw and with the bulkhead off the car, threading the screw in to clean out the threads as much as possible. Then motor spray out the hole to fully clean out the debris.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:49 PM   #3510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsisneat View Post
I have a problem with one of my dampers. Just one, the others are fine.
It is leaking a lot. After a 5 minute run there is a drop of oil below the piston rod
How can i rebuild the damper, how can i get out this cartridge without destroying it? Has anyone already maintained his dampers?

Other question: if it won't work, would TRF dampers maybe fit?

Thanks for replies...
Probably the o-ring was cut during the install. Use the shock tool to press the slug out from the bottom paying special attention to where you are pressing. Make sure you don't scar the inside where the shaft rubs. The process sounds complicated, but once you've done it a few times it gets easier. Is there someone at your track who has used the VCS2 system before?
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