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Old 07-22-2007, 05:27 PM   #3391
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I don't think that the bolt on weights are all that great actually. It limits the places that you can put them and you have to buy more expensive weights.

Tape on lead lets you put the weight wherever you want. Lets you work around the electronics.

Losing a tape on weight is pretty rare as long as you clean the chassis up a little before you stick it on.
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Old 07-22-2007, 06:03 PM   #3392
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How tight are you running the diffs for Stock? I have not been able to find this out.
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:33 PM   #3393
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
How tight are you running the diffs for Stock? I have not been able to find this out.
The general setting is tighten all the way then loosen 1/8 of a turn. Check after the first runs and tighten accordingly. They will loosen themselves in the "break in" period so it important to check.
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:12 PM   #3394
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Originally Posted by fastharry View Post
the slop does bother me,I have to admit....when my PRO4 seems like a better car quality wise,It makes me think thunder tiger RTR quality has hit AREA 51....

even my TC3 nitro,and B4 seem way better plastic wise.....

but,if you guys are happy,its worth a shot...

I read the last 20 pages,but didn't see anything as to adding weights,or if there is a place to screw on weights(I read the manual also)....

and as far as gearing,I noticed on the o7 xray,the higher drive ratio combos don't work.......the spurs get to big and stick out the chassis,and the motor wont take a 13 tooth with the biggest spur....so I wanted to know,if anyone is having problems with gearing the car so it can run a 4.5 bl at a COMFORTABLE temp,,,,,

btw,how easy is it to change those roll center blocks for the roll center and anti squat?...
As "Unregistered" suggested, the tape on weights are more versatile. There has been some discussion and one of my fellow Australians has posted some stuff about his weight and electronics distribution that is good. I'll find the post and put a link to it. It may be more than 20 pages back by now.

If you check out the set u sheetsz here:

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...setups_tc5.htm

You can see that some of the Team drivers are running the LRP brushless systems althought they are gearing them much higher.

By roll centre blocks I believe that you are reffering to the arm mounts?? The little black things that hold on the suspension arms...

They are easy to change, just takes a couple of minutes. Use the ball hex that is included in the kit - no sweat!!!
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:56 PM   #3395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375 View Post
Hi all,

I have just posted my progress on Action RC. Check it out if you have some time. Let me know what you think as well - leave a comment (good/bad or indifferent) if you want.

- Leonard.
Hey bvoltz,

Check out this site. Leonard (the writer) has been doing extensive testing on his car and the article is very interesting and informative.
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:04 PM   #3396
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Hey bvoltz,

Check out this site. Leonard (the writer) has been doing extensive testing on his car and the article is very interesting and informative.
Which Site??
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:15 PM   #3397
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Bvoltz,

The link is in post 3167 and a pic of the track is in post 3170. Or put your cursor over the words Action RC in the quote of DirtyDog in B4Bandits post. Its a link which does not show the underline/


Steve

Last edited by corallyman; 07-22-2007 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:33 AM   #3398
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Bvoltz,

The link is in post 3167 and a pic of the track is in post 3170. Or put your cursor over the words Action RC in the quote of DirtyDog in B4Bandits post. Its a link which does not show the underline/


Steve
Thanks Steve,

When I posted Leonard's thread I thought that the link would come out in colour...

Warwick.
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:14 PM   #3399
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Default gearing

I have never posted on this thread before... so my question has probably already been answered, I just don't know on what page so I am going to ask anyway. I would appreciate any help I can get. I have a new TC5 and the belts seem to be dragging even though I have them lose...which is not my biggest problem. The biggest problem I am wondering about is where I race we use foam tires on asphalt. Usually they start out pretty close the same size as rubber tires before they run down. I am running a 13.5 brushless motor from NoVac and my gearing is probably wrong. I was running a XRAY T2 007 car and the car was geared with 48 pitch gears. The ratio between the two cars are clearly different but my TC5 car does not have the power in torque and speed that my Xray car had. I have the car right now geared 81 34 and the car seems really sluggish and has no speed or power. I have been all over the gear spectrum and I must not be hitting the right ratio to get back my power and torque and speed. If anyone can help please post any answers that might help point me in the right direction. Thanks!

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Old 07-23-2007, 05:07 PM   #3400
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hotcar, it seems like you're way undergeared for the Novak 13.5 system. You want a FDR of about ~4.5ish if you're running rubber on asphalt (at least at the two tracks I run at). I'm not sure what the ration of the tranny is on the TC5, but on the TC4 its 2.5:1 and I run an 88t(64p) spur with a 47t pinion and its wicked fast (almost too fast for one of the tracks!)
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Old 07-23-2007, 08:11 PM   #3401
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Cool Gearing

Hello everyone,
I'm brand new to this so please bear with me. I just started racing again after 15 years and I'm starting to take things seriously. I have had some terrific help from the local racers but i have some tech questions. First is about gearing I understand the ratio formula but my question is how does spur size effect speed? If I ask about gearing (I'm running LRP Sphere with Novak 13.5 Brushless) at my local track I am told run 4.8 or 5.0 final drive. O.K. but do I do it using a 72 tooth (48 pitch) spur or 87 tooth? I know a larger spur with smaller pinion helps acceleration but lowers top speed and neutral size pinion and spur will effect top end, and I know it depends on track lay out (Our local track is pretty good size with high and medium speed corners) but I'm going to a new track in Marin and I'm told it's smaller and tighter. I just want to get a close baseline so I'm not changing pinions after every heat. Thanks for helping this newbie out!
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:00 PM   #3402
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Im no absolute gearing pro....but the 87 tooth spur should be fine for almost any track....what pinion is ideal depends on many factors...

but for example....at SIR witch is a kinda small-tight track, I run between a 22 and 25 tooth pinion for stock and 19turn...

on a large track....try around a 26-30 tooth pinion...

hope this helps...

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Old 07-23-2007, 11:06 PM   #3403
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Hey Notso, talk to Lex Tyler out at Marin RC, he should be there this weekend. He runs a TC5 (he's a team driver I think) and is really cool about helping people out.
I'll be there with my trusty FT TC4 running in stock. (bright pink and blue stratus, say hi if you're out this weekend!)
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:33 PM   #3404
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quick question...

i enjoy my tc5 and its such a great car. i have one big problem though, i can't seem to get rid of the "play" with the steering. its like i can wiggle the wheels a bit. i feel the steering of other cars and they do not seem to have that problem.

what i did so far,

changed to rpm ball cups
charged servo horn,

got rid of like 10% of the play but the majority is still present


thanks again
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:14 AM   #3405
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All cars will have some "slop". Trying to get rid of all of it is the wrong thing to do. If your car runs well, then why worry about it. If you feel something is wrong then replace a few parts if needed, but don't think that having some slop is horrible. I have had many, many cars in my 27+ years of R/Cing. The slop allows the car to center up when a force is aplied to it. It won't just wobble down the track. One of the best things in my opinion about the TC5 is how fair the pricing is on spare parts, when things get out of shape or worn after many runs then just replace some parts and it will be good again.

Steve
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