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Old 07-03-2007, 10:40 AM   #3256
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If you look on the setup sheet, the tension number depends on whether the bearing inserts are set with the index tabs facing up or down.

The diff height adjustment is mainly to affect the driveshaft angle. Higher diffs = straight driveshafts which have less resistance on power. Also it is used on carpet because the tires are much smaller, therefore the outside axle is lower and thus the diff should be lowered.

Mainly you will lower or raise the front diff to get different steering characteristics. On carpet you would lower the front diff to tame down the front end. On asphalt you might raise it to get more steering.
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:33 AM   #3257
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Mainly you will lower or raise the front diff to get different steering characteristics. On carpet you would lower the front diff to tame down the front end. On asphalt you might raise it to get more steering.
Is diff height only to make drivetrain straight? Or it as a setting option? Which one should go first? as straight as possible to get more efficiency? or use as setting option?

If I read it right, straight drivetrain = more traction??
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Old 07-03-2007, 10:51 PM   #3258
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anybody have an asphalt set up with only a itf top deck. and how to make d front diff into a spool? cut a sand paper and replace d diff ring?
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:29 PM   #3259
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Default Bearings

Looking for some spare bearings and was hoping to find some locally. Or online.

10x15x4 No problem, can find them anywhere.

8x4x3 Again, no problem.

6x10x4 BIG PROBLEM. Cant find them. I guess that they are not a common size.

These are the wheel hub bearings, 8 in total on the car.
Any help?
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:36 PM   #3260
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anybody have an asphalt set up with only a itf top deck. and how to make d front diff into a spool? cut a sand paper and replace d diff ring?
you can use sand paper or some use header cards from parts bags. Both will work. with the header card I'd think you'd need to have the thrust bolt tighter than normal.

E
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:16 AM   #3261
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@EA: i drive the car 25-30 times i think, but the front belt is tight and i can play music with it. i think there is something wrong in my package of the car. Anyone have a idea wich belt is fiting also???
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Old 07-04-2007, 11:46 AM   #3262
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Any of you guys noticed any abnormal wear in the CVA joints, mainly where the crosspin drives the axle, but also a little where the coupler and bone meets? I've got three race days on my car, I think I would have rather had a thicker axle instead of the retaining clips.
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Old 07-04-2007, 11:49 AM   #3263
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@EA: i drive the car 25-30 times i think, but the front belt is tight and i can play music with it. i think there is something wrong in my package of the car. Anyone have a idea wich belt is fiting also???
Do you have a friend that has a TC5 that you can compare with? It is highly unlikely that you have a "short" belt?
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:15 PM   #3264
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chance- I have run over a 100 pack on the car and I just rebuild them yesterday and I had no slop at all. one thing I do is I put a lot of black grease on the join and that seems to help.
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:15 PM   #3265
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Quote:
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@EA: i drive the car 25-30 times i think, but the front belt is tight and i can play music with it. i think there is something wrong in my package of the car. Anyone have a idea wich belt is fiting also???
Please don't take this as insult to your building, but the first thing I would do if make sure that the setting you assume to be the loosest is just that. Do you have the notches for the cam facing up or down. If the notch on the cam faces upward, make sure they point toward the front bumper and not toward the rear of the car. Also check to make sure that the notch isn't in different settings right and left. Having the diff slanted due to different settings left and right could bind it up. Maybe this helps,if not, like Brent said, set it up the same way with some one elses belt?
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:19 PM   #3266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chance View Post
Any of you guys noticed any abnormal wear in the CVA joints, mainly where the crosspin drives the axle, but also a little where the coupler and bone meets? I've got three race days on my car, I think I would have rather had a thicker axle instead of the retaining clips.
Chance- like Keven said, use the black grease in all the joints. I used to always run my CVD's dry because I feared the grease would attract dust and dirt from the tracks we run on not being prepped. I too noticed wear when I ran them dry, but I have used grease ever since with no further issues. Without the grease mine would also bind up when the axles turned left and right, which unless you had the servo unattached you wouldn't notice.
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:30 PM   #3267
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Thanks, I'll keep an eye on them. I feel like there's more than enough black grease still in them to prevent this much wear. It's mostly just the fronts, I guess it's from running a spliff from the start, never did run it with a front diff.
No worries, fast as this car is, I can live with it.
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:58 PM   #3268
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Here's a setup question, when the track starts to get greasy from the heat, and the rear end decides that it's time to srart drift racing, what change would you suggest to help lock the rear end back in?
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:07 PM   #3269
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Here's a setup question, when the track starts to get greasy from the heat, and the rear end decides that it's time to srart drift racing, what change would you suggest to help lock the rear end back in?
One of our team drivers reported that he liked to lower the inner rear camber link when the track got a bit more slimy. This helped lock the rear in more.
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Old 07-04-2007, 11:19 PM   #3270
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i race in arizona, where the temp is over 100 degrees when we race, have had the same problem with rear end swapping around, Brent said it was front end too soft, but the change that made the biggest improvement was to actually raise the inner hinge pins to the upper mount, seems like it wouldnt work but makes the car have almost too much rear traction, i guess it doesnt lean as much but it works
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