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Old 06-24-2007, 02:39 PM   #3166
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Originally Posted by Cyclone Charlie View Post
I asked Associate before. You can use the diff screw and nut from the TC3 steel diff. They're identical except for the color of the plastic holding the nut and the best part is you don't have to seat the nut. It's made into the plastic holder. The part number is 6575.
I haven't tried this, but I wouldn't recommend it. The white plastic t-nut is made for a wider outdrive slot than the TC5. As far as replacing the nut in the TC5 diff, if you check the tension every 10 runs or so, you shouldn't have to replace the nut until you're ready to rebuild the entire diff. The part number for the TC5 diff rebuild is #31166.
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Old 06-24-2007, 04:01 PM   #3167
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Hi all,

I have just posted my progress on Action RC. Check it out if you have some time. Let me know what you think as well - leave a comment (good/bad or indifferent) if you want.

- Leonard.
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Old 06-24-2007, 04:58 PM   #3168
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DirtyDog,

I really enjoy your postings and Have checked out your site a few times now. Keep it going please. I do have a question for you though, how big was the size of the track where you were running the 10.5 BL at a 4.50 FDR. I am converting to BL soon but was not expecting to need to buy pinions so large to get to those ratios.

Also what mod motor were you running when you did the 5 cell race meeting? What ratio did you end up running for that BL? What was the size of that track?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 06-24-2007, 05:10 PM   #3169
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Hey Brent... Do you guys have an estimate on when the spool and one ways will be available ?
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Old 06-24-2007, 05:25 PM   #3170
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
DirtyDog,

I really enjoy your postings and Have checked out your site a few times now. Keep it going please. I do have a question for you though, how big was the size of the track where you were running the 10.5 BL at a 4.50 FDR. I am converting to BL soon but was not expecting to need to buy pinions so large to get to those ratios.

Also what mod motor were you running when you did the 5 cell race meeting? What ratio did you end up running for that BL? What was the size of that track?

Thanks,
Steve
Hi Steve,

Thanks mate, I'm glad someone is reading them. With regards to your questions:

1. The track I ran the 10.5t motor was Brendale - Queensland (2006 Nitro Worlds and 2007 1/5th Worlds). The track is very large and open, the back straight would be approx 35meters (short version) and about 50meters (long version). Check it out here.



2. The 5 cell test track was at Landsborough - similiar in size to Brendale (not quite the same, but we use very similiar ratios).
I used a Nosram/LRP 3.5t motor with 7.93FDR (started with 8.21FDR) (115/28 and 29)

But I have also been testing with both Peak and LRP/Nosram 3.5, 4.5 and soon to test 4.0t motors.

I will keep you posted.

- Leonard.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:14 PM   #3171
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Anyone have a good asphalt/rubber setup without the ITF chassis. Or is the ITF chassis a must for running asphalt/rubber.

Thanks
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:28 PM   #3172
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Originally Posted by zake540 View Post
Anyone have a good asphalt/rubber setup without the ITF chassis. Or is the ITF chassis a must for running asphalt/rubber.

Thanks
the ITF chassis is not a MUST....it will provide a little more grip.... just start with a setup from the Reedy race....use the ITF top deck if you can....
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Old 06-24-2007, 08:17 PM   #3173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375 View Post
Hi all,

I have just posted my progress on Action RC. Check it out if you have some time. Let me know what you think as well - leave a comment (good/bad or indifferent) if you want.

- Leonard.
Yeah great writye up Leonard. I was thinking of tinkering with the anti-dive myself. Will definately do it now :-)

Cheers,
Warwick.
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Old 06-24-2007, 08:27 PM   #3174
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Originally Posted by 51 View Post
I haven't tried this, but I wouldn't recommend it. The white plastic t-nut is made for a wider outdrive slot than the TC5. As far as replacing the nut in the TC5 diff, if you check the tension every 10 runs or so, you shouldn't have to replace the nut until you're ready to rebuild the entire diff. The part number for the TC5 diff rebuild is #31166.
If that's the case why would one of your team members say it will work? It fits snug in the outdrive and it looks like a better part than the one that comes with the TC5.

If you want the stock nut and bolt for the diff, you can use the ones from a TC4. The only thing is, you don't get the nut holder. The plastic nut holder only comes with the diff outdrives (31167). The nuts (3904) come in a package of five, and the bolt (6573) comes with the thrust washers.

Last edited by Cyclone Charlie; 06-24-2007 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 06-24-2007, 09:28 PM   #3175
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So, after about 4 years away from racing, I decided last week to pick up a TC5 and get back into it. I've just finished building the kit and I must say that things have definitely changed since my days of running the TC3. I am very impressed with the kit as a whole and can't wait to get out to the track. That being said, I was quite surprised during the build at how vague and poorly detailed the instruction manual was. I could definitely see some areas where someone less experienced in building kits could end up thoroughly confused. Listed below are some of the issues that I came across. Hopefully this might help some people out in the process, and maybe some of you can chime in with some tips.

Shocks:
It isn't very clearly described or shown how the large VCS foam is supposed to fit into the top of the shock. It seemed like it should probably fit into the bladder, but I tried several times to squeeze the foam in there and was never able to do it without moving the bladder and getting air into the shock. I asked a friend and he confirmed that the foam was supposed to fit into the bladder. I ended up cutting the foam a little bit on 4 sides making something of a square with rounded corners which allowed the foam to fit inside. Even after doing this, the foam pushed the rim of the bladder out over the edge of the shock body, making it difficult to get the cap on without displacing the bladder.

Differentials:
It isn't clearly stated or shown that the diff nut needs to be pressed down into the diff t-nut, not just pressed into the top.

Lower suspension arm mounts:
Had I already assembled another current generation TC I probably wouldn't have paid so much attention to this section, but having never done it before, it proved to be pretty confusing. In the manual, the arm mounts are referred to as A and B, depending on which side of the mount the hole is on. No where on the parts tree are these parts marked as A or B. I looked at the pictures and figured out how it went together, but got a little confused when I looked at a setup sheet and saw that A and B were used to designate which holes the mounts were supposed to go into on the bulkhead, thinking that maybe you needed to use and A block for the A bulkhead hole, etc. Also, when assembling the rear, the first picture shows #2 mounts being used -- the next picture showing them being assembled shows #3 mounts. Anyway, got it all figured out eventually.

Top deck:
The picture in the manual shows the top deck being installed on top of the front belt. I just noticed this as I was looking through the manual again, but someone could easily miss it since the diff is not installed at that point.

Anyway, that's all I've got; Just thought I'd throw it out there in case anyone else encountered similar issues.

Eric.

Last edited by meinie; 06-25-2007 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:56 AM   #3176
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Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
Hey Brent... Do you guys have an estimate on when the spool and one ways will be available ?
Please forgive me if it turns out wrong, but I think the spools and one-ways were expected to come in at the same time as the alum diff halves, which Brent mentioned above they were coming.

Best thing to do would just be to back order them from somewhere (if not already) so that you get some of the first ones. This way if they come in limited amounts, you won't miss out to people who preordered.
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Old 06-25-2007, 04:04 PM   #3177
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Brandon, would you post your setup for a stock motor from this past weekend? Or maybe hook me up at least. LOL
I'm going to run a CO27 this week and thought I would start with the Stellflue setup, but it's about a hunderd miles from what I've been running with a 13.5 motor.
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Old 06-25-2007, 04:09 PM   #3178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Melton View Post
Please forgive me if it turns out wrong, but I think the spools and one-ways were expected to come in at the same time as the alum diff halves, which Brent mentioned above they were coming.

Best thing to do would just be to back order them from somewhere (if not already) so that you get some of the first ones. This way if they come in limited amounts, you won't miss out to people who preordered.


I must have missed when he said that..... thanks for the info
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:44 PM   #3179
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Originally Posted by meinie View Post
So, after about 4 years away from racing, I decided last week to pick up a TC5 and get back into it. I've just finished building the kit and I must say that things have definitely changed since my days of running the TC3. I am very impressed with the kit as a whole and can't wait to get out to the track. That being said, I was quite surprised during the build at how vague and poorly detailed the instruction manual was. I could definitely see some areas where someone less experienced in building kits could end up thoroughly confused. Listed below are some of the issues that I came across. Hopefully this might help some people out in the process, and maybe some of you can chime in with some tips.

Shocks:
It isn't very clearly described or shown how the large VCS foam is supposed to fit into the top of the shock. It seemed like it should probably fit into the bladder, but I tried several times to squeeze the foam in there and was never able to do it without moving the bladder and getting air into the shock. I asked a friend and he confirmed that the foam was supposed to fit into the bladder. I ended up cutting the foam a little bit on 4 sides making something of a square with rounded corners which allowed the foam to fit inside. Even after doing this, the foam pushed the rim of the bladder out over the edge of the shock body, making it difficult to get the cap on without displacing the bladder.

Differentials:
It isn't clearly stated or shown that the diff nut needs to be pressed down into the diff t-nut, not just pressed into the top.

Lower suspension arm mounts:
Had I already assembled another current generation TC I probably wouldn't have paid so much attention to this section, but having never done it before, it proved to be pretty confusing. In the manual, the arm mounts are referred to as A and B, depending on which side of the mount the hole is on. No where on the parts tree are these parts marked as A or B. I looked at the pictures and figured out how it went together, but got a little confused when I looked at a setup sheet and saw that A and B were used to designate which holes the mounts were supposed to go into on the bulkhead, thinking that maybe you needed to use and A block for the A bulkhead hole, etc. Also, when assembling the rear, the first picture shows #2 mounts being used -- the next picture showing them being assembled shows #3 mounts. Anyway, got it all figured out eventually.

Top deck:
The picture in the manual shows the top deck being installed on top of the front belt. I just noticed this as I was looking through the manual again, but someone could easily miss it since the diff is not installed at that point.

Anyway, that's all I've got; Just thought I'd throw it out there in case anyone else encountered similar issues.

Eric.
I've owned TC3s for years, so when a friend asked if I would put the car together I jumped at the chance.I agree with you about the manual being vague.I guess they thought only experienced racers would be assembling the car.Other than that it seems like a decent car.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:39 PM   #3180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chance View Post
Brandon, would you post your setup for a stock motor from this past weekend? Or maybe hook me up at least. LOL
I'm going to run a CO27 this week and thought I would start with the Stellflue setup, but it's about a hunderd miles from what I've been running with a 13.5 motor.
Chance- I will post it for sure, but the set-up from Frederick this weekend is waaaay different from anything you'll see on the AE site or what I run in NC. That track had a unique asphalt that doesn't compare to anything else. The only thing the same on my car from what I went with is the rear diff. Do you wat the set-up I ran at Durham last time? Car turned the fastest lap of the day and was easy to drive.
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