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Old 06-07-2007, 05:01 PM   #2851
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350 is a low man ...... $125 dollars less than the new rdx phi .... $50 less than the MI-3 $75 cheaper than the Type-R

Parts are cheap as well

And they havent stopped making the parts for the FT TC4 or even TC3



What could they possibly do to make a low budget TC5 ? Low budget cars are tub chassis cars.... You cant have your cake and eat it too..
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:48 PM   #2852
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$350 was at the high end 4-5 years ago, but this is the deal of the century right now. Not to mention the parts $5.99 for the spool, like $6 for a pair of arms. Hard to go wrong here, my friend.
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:59 PM   #2853
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Rob you gonna be out sunday ?
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:04 PM   #2854
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The guys around here have been getting them for 310 bucks with a coupon thru tower!!! Now that is a great deal!!!
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Old 06-07-2007, 07:16 PM   #2855
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I think the price is a great deal... considering the cost of other current kits.
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:59 PM   #2856
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The price you can get a TC5 for seems pretty reasonable to me. If you saw one in person, you would see that it's a good price for what you're getting. You'd spend a lot more buying upgrades for a Team version or an RTR. The days of $100 RC cars is gone!
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:53 PM   #2857
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75% finished building my kit.....everything is going together perfect...

some ingenious parts on this car for sure....

GREAT job Associated!!!!!!

cant wait to wheel this thing!!!
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:37 AM   #2858
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Hi all,

can anyone explain me, what is different when im using the Foams inside shocks or not?

I can also have less then 10% rebound with the foams and without, but what is better???

I hope u understand what i want to know :-)

Greetings,
Marcel
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Old 06-08-2007, 05:14 AM   #2859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSilver View Post
Hi all,

can anyone explain me, what is different when im using the Foams inside shocks or not?

I can also have less then 10% rebound with the foams and without, but what is better???

I hope u understand what i want to know :-)

Greetings,
Marcel
The more of the foam inserts you have in there, the more rebound, and FASTER rebound you will have. If you use all the foam inserts and only have 10%, you have air in the shocks. With no air and all inserts it should rebound fairly quickly almost all or all the way out. I believe most are using the small foam and leaving the large one out.
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Old 06-08-2007, 06:09 AM   #2860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Melton View Post
While the car is in it's newest stages, set the belts as loose as possible. Even in the loosest position it will not skip or cause pre mature failure if all cams are installed correctly.

One thing I observed is that if you are using the ITF chassis, running the belts in a too tight of a position will actually slightly bow the chassis upwards at the ends. Not so much with the top deck installed, but you want the chassis to be as flat as possible when in a static position, and the belts too tight want to pull the chassis in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
A tight belt (especially rear) will also result in excessive drag brakes which cause oversteer entering turns.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
This is not directed at you but a general statement. Each driver must adjust his belts for proper tension in his car. There is no one adjustment that everyone will use. The setting will be different for each individual.
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
It is best to run them a little tighter than normal to start, this will help the break in stretching process. After a few packs they will be at maximum length and should not change much if at all from that point on.

If the loosest position is still too tight, run it that way and adjust later. Just keep in mind that a tight belt can harm your electronics if it leads to overheating.
Cheers everyone for your replies
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:55 AM   #2861
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I know brent didnt want any "retro fit" parts installed but for anyone wanting a one way diff the yokomo BD unit fits nicely with only 2.5-3mm of shimms requried.

Hope that helps some of you while we are waiting for Factory Parts.
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:12 AM   #2862
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hey Team A....

do you guys have a ballpark servo-saver setting to start with?

something like tighten the nut till it stops and then back it off a certain amount?

thx
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:22 AM   #2863
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The manual says to tighten the nut until it's flush. Pretty much normal for Associate.
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:33 AM   #2864
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Quote:
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The manual says to tighten the nut until it's flush. Pretty much normal for Associate.
The manual says You have words in yours? Mine only has a bunch of pretty pictures.

E
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:52 AM   #2865
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The updated manual at Associateds site does.

The first manual they printed must have taken it for granted that everyone has owned a few Associated products before.
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