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Old 03-19-2006, 06:56 AM   #31
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Default HPI PRO4 orTATC4


If you are planning on racing on a regular basis, then the Pro4 may be the way to go. If you plan to race every now and then, the you are comparing apples and oranges. Let your wallet do the talking. I have a TC4 RTR converted to Team specs and I also have an xray. The xray is a belt drive car and the TC4 is a shaft drive car. The Xray carries more corner speed than the TC4 but my TC4 seems to jump of the line quicker than the xray. Another question, are you running on carpet or asphalt? If you are running on asphalt then the Pro4 already comes with a front one way differential. However, if you are running on carpet you will need to invest in a front ball differential for the Pro4. If you plan to race on asphalt with a TC4, then you will need to invest in a front one way differential. Anyway, I hope you find the answers you are looking for.

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Old 03-19-2006, 12:02 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
How can you say that? A lot of guys here driving Pro4s run with mod and never broke their diffs. The Pro4's bevel gears easily wear out that's why they came up with the 1.1 version. The 1.1 bevel gears have plates on the edges that makes it more durable compared to the old ones.

Many people have the wrong impression on the Pro4. But the car speaks for itself. Some guys here even said that the Pro4 is not a good car out of the box. Not true! Hara proved it and so as the other champions who drove their Pro4s to victory.

The Pro4 is a very competitive and durable touring car. Tons of hop-ups from HPI and from the aftermarket brands like, BMI, Square, Jet Racing, Speedmind, and a lot more. Before I got mine, I did a few research on which car is better. My choices were:Tamiya TB EVO 4, HPI Pro4, AE FT-TC4 and Yokomo MR4-TC SD. I chose the Pro4 because of parts, competitiveness, durability and most important, performance.

I don't drive as good as the others, yet. But I will get there because it's only been a few months since I got back to RC racing. The last time was 1996. I bet that most RC owners and drivers with new cars in this site wouldn't win against my Pro4 if I let Hara, Surikarn or Andy Moore drive it.

Lastly, just because a lot of newer cars have been out doesn't mean that the Pro4 is outdated. Definitely not. It is still race worthy against the newer counterparts.

Very easily! Everyone here trying to run a 6.5 or 5.5, tears up diffs every week with them. I'm not knocking the Pro-4 at all. I love it myself. I just won't run brushless with it. JMO
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Old 03-19-2006, 02:51 PM   #33
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I've run a GTB 5.5R in my Pro4 with no probs for over a year now, I'm sure i picked it up on my last visit to HK. No probs...
The only time the diff game me probs was on a 38degree day C running on dusty concrete. A bunch of long 30m drifts later and i managed to melt the diff. Mostly my fault as i had my diff set up for the track... unloading it on the smooth conrete wasn't so smart...

I have heard probs with the HPi diff screws, but the new kits got an upgrade? If not, it's a cheap part anyway. I NEVER broke or stripped one myself. Then agian, i don't race on carpet.

I HAVE eaten a bunch of cvd's but that's normal for racing and use with a low turn motor. Until i upgraded to TiR cvd's that is!!...

From running MOD, i'd say the only thing appart from parts support that would swing it either way for me, is that the pro4 is a CF chassis. The Tc-4 tub i assume would trap heat easier(The old TC-3 warped under heat?!) and not allow cooling airflow as easily as the pro4..

I have a friend who runs a yokomo CGM(Tub chassis) and his electronics always heated up quicker than mine because things were so crammed together.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:55 AM   #34
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that's unless you get the factory team tc4 with the carbon chassis .

Incidentally, my friend with a TC4 tub car has no problems with his electronics heating up. The only time I've had parts getting very hot is because of the belt drivetrain on my old car not being very free or being way overgeared.
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