AGR#7

I was almost convinced to place a KO Propo 2123 7.2V servo on my Christmas list , but now, I'm wondering if I really need it. Some say it is overkill. Money isn't really the issue, since most of them are around $100+ anyway. Suggestions?

Ralf

iTrader: (2)

Well, I only use 6 volts servo such as Futaba 9402 or Digital 9450 and recently I bought a digital Futaba 9550 which is smaller in size.

When I buy a servo, I check its speed and torque and also if the gear is plastic or metal, and if it has bearings

Futaba 9550 Torque/Speed : 85/0.11

Ko 2123 specs are excellent : 95/0.06 but I don't know if it is really useful...

Here in France Ko Propo servos are a little bit expensive compared to Futaba, that's why I use Futaba
Moreover, I don't like to have one more power connection and I think 7.2 volts servo draw more current

AGR#7

I am defintely going with ball bearing, digital, and steel gears. I have a KO Propo radio, and I like what I have read about their servos. So; really, my only decision comes down to whether or not I'm going with 7.2 or 6.0 volts.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

The Futaba 9550 servo will do the Job just fine

The 2132 KO is also a nice servo but a tad bit over kill..
-Dave

Cole Trickle

Whats the purpose? Bshing or racing? for bashing, I dont think it matter much. But for racing, I find that about steering servos, you simply should get the best you can afford. It's one of the most overseen hop-ops, yet one of the most important.

I'm using the 2123, and I love it. I tried to go back to a servo at 0,17 sec - it was really hard to go back !

Personally, I find it easy to mount the extra 7,2 volt wire. But if you dont like to solder etc., I dont think you'll notice the difference between a 0,08 and 0,06 sec servo.

AGR#7

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Whats the purpose? Bshing or racing? for bashing, I dont think it matter much. But for racing, I find that about steering servos, you simply should get the best you can afford. It's one of the most overseen hop-ops, yet one of the most important.

I'm using the 2123, and I love it. I tried to go back to a servo at 0,17 sec - it was really hard to go back !

Personally, I find it easy to mount the extra 7,2 volt wire. But if you dont like to solder etc., I dont think you'll notice the difference between a 0,08 and 0,06 sec servo.

Indeed,,,,,Going to be racing next season. The ESC I'm getting (Keyence), I believe, is equipped to handle the 7.2v servo.

Did you have to re-adjust much when you changed over to the 2123? One racer mentioned that it was too sensitive, but I have no idea, since all I have used so far, is a standard Hitec servo. I'm going to be spending over $100 anyway, so I would rather get the best now. Thanks!

popsracer

To all;
FET used to be the High Performance servo standard but Digital Servo Technology has really superceded the need to use an FET Servo anymore. Compare the spec's. I think most Digital servos will equal or exceed the spec's of the availible FET servos.

Cole Trickle

The 2123 are both FET and digital. I havent seen anyone with better specs.

Did I have to adjust much? Hmmm, I think this is very personal. If you got shaky hands, when the adrenaline flow, then it might be too fast.

Personally, I find it's easier to go to a fast servo, than from a fast to a slow. I went from a standard Acoms servo through 2 others, gradually being faster. And finally, the 2123. So I didn't took the BIG step at once.

You will be amazed. The first times you'll probably hit the boards at the end of the straight. Simply because you are used to turn the steering wheel several meters befor the corner. And you'll do that in the beginning. But now the car actually turn, when you ask it to... SLAM !

Which KO TX do you have? If it's a too big step at once, you can probably adjust the steering speed a little down at your TX. This way you can take it in smaller steps, until you are prerared for full speed.

What I really like, is that a fast servo makes it posible to steer contra if the car slides. Or to change direction in the middle of a chicane.

popsracer

Cole Trickle;

I agree 100% about switching to a high speed servo. It is sooo nice to be able to turn that wheel at the last second instead of 3-4 feet before the corner. I will never go back to anything less.
BTW; I have one JR #8450 (Nitro) and one Hitec #5925 (Electric).

rod_b

popsracer - how do you like that JR 8450. I've been itching to try one but I always end up picking up a KO.

AGR#7 - If it's really a concern, just get the 2143. It's .08 secs and it's got over 100oz of torque (@ 6V). I personally could not get myself to buy the 2123 because the 2143 is so much less of a hassle.

Cole Trickle

Well, it's about temper. But it's just one extra wire. You dont even need an ESC with a FET wire - the 2123 comes with a little manual, that shows how to connect things.

I forgot one thing: I like oversteering. So before I got a fast servo, I did a lot of things about setup, to gain more steering: Less caster, less rear toe-in, ackerman mod, front to = 0 etc. So when I got a fast servo, I had to rework my setup, otherwise it was way too sensitive.

popsracer

Rod B;

The KO specs look almost identical to the JR 8450. There is a misprint on the package about the torque. The 8550 is the servo with 188oz of torque NOT the 8450 (98oz). I've been using the JR 8450 in my Reflex for about 6 months now and no problems yet.
I have a Hitec 5925 in my electric car and it has been good too.
Even my T-Maxx has a 8550 for steering.

ijnek

a 7.2V servo...tat's a little too much 4 mi.
i'm using the KO 2143 n futaba 9550,both worked veri well for mi and i like both of them for different reasons.
the futaba 9550 bcos of it's smaller size and the KO 2143 for it's better response compare to the F9550...

Mike F

So if I have a Cyclone TC, I can use the 2123 with no problems, correct.

sosidge

correct - like cole said, you just need to do a little soldering job on the battery's positive wire, if the speedo doesn't have a pre-fitted FET wire.