How I threw away 6-months of racing
#16
Originally Posted by AM03GT
do you run a spektrum module? i've heard some cases of crazy radio model settings like trim and epa changing on its own with the use of a spektrum module, sometimes even changing a few clicks while in use...
M11 USERS!! I do know of a friend who put wrap tape over his handle and every time he turned it on, the setting changed. He called airtronics and what was causing this was the fact that if the button on the grip handle is pressed when the radio cuts on, EVRYTHING goes back to default settings, just incase anyone has had this issue.
#17
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (101)
I just reset my model on my m8, set my dual rate to 100%, put the servo horn on that is already attached to the turning linkages, and try to postition it on the best spline as possbile, set my end points, put it on the track, set my dual rate, and im gold.
You want to start off with the same dual rate on each car. I know when i reset a model on the M8, it resets the dual rate to 125, have to make sure to put it to 100
You want to start off with the same dual rate on each car. I know when i reset a model on the M8, it resets the dual rate to 125, have to make sure to put it to 100
#18
I can't stand setting my circles on the track.
I like to set my throw on the HUDY setup station. Of course, this only works for touring cars.
First, I set my EPA's equal in the radio. Then, I take care that the servo horn is at the proper angle (90deg on most cars). Next, I make sure the bellcrank is straight/centered by adjusting the tie rod from the horn to the bellcrank. Then, I make sure that both tie rods are of equal length (unless the bellcrank is offset, in which case I set each side to the proper toe). After I set all that, I turn on my radio and set the proper toe on the HUDY station, taking care that my tie rods remain equal length (when applicable). Then, I make sure on the HUDY station that both wheels are turning the same amount. If they are a little different, I adjust my EPA a little, but I'll keep both sides within 4% of each other.
Here's the kicker: I double check on the HUDY station that D/R adjustments affect the throw on both sides equally. For example, if I change my D/R from 85 to 72, and the throw is suddenly a couple degrees off, I know something else is wrong...and I double check everything.
Doing it this way, I am always confident that changing my D/R isn't messing with any of my other settings.
One thing I absolutely hate about setting my throw on the track is that the car always seems to steer different depending on whether or not it is in the groove, even when doing very slow circles. It just doesn't feel accurate enough to me most of the time.
After making all these adjustments, my car feels completely balanced on the track...until I hit the wall hard enough !
I like to set my throw on the HUDY setup station. Of course, this only works for touring cars.
First, I set my EPA's equal in the radio. Then, I take care that the servo horn is at the proper angle (90deg on most cars). Next, I make sure the bellcrank is straight/centered by adjusting the tie rod from the horn to the bellcrank. Then, I make sure that both tie rods are of equal length (unless the bellcrank is offset, in which case I set each side to the proper toe). After I set all that, I turn on my radio and set the proper toe on the HUDY station, taking care that my tie rods remain equal length (when applicable). Then, I make sure on the HUDY station that both wheels are turning the same amount. If they are a little different, I adjust my EPA a little, but I'll keep both sides within 4% of each other.
Here's the kicker: I double check on the HUDY station that D/R adjustments affect the throw on both sides equally. For example, if I change my D/R from 85 to 72, and the throw is suddenly a couple degrees off, I know something else is wrong...and I double check everything.
Doing it this way, I am always confident that changing my D/R isn't messing with any of my other settings.
One thing I absolutely hate about setting my throw on the track is that the car always seems to steer different depending on whether or not it is in the groove, even when doing very slow circles. It just doesn't feel accurate enough to me most of the time.
After making all these adjustments, my car feels completely balanced on the track...until I hit the wall hard enough !
#19
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
I can't stand setting my circles on the track...
#20
rayhuang, Nexus, and Brandon what radio are you guys using?
#21
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
When you guys talked about setting up dual rates all the time, but isn't dual rate just decreases the steering servo's sensitivity?
Which setting do you guys use first when setting up a brand new car assuming you have set up the steering linkage on the car all right, servo horn in neutral position. Do you guys first set subtrim to fine tune the center point AND then set your EPA?
Which setting do you guys use first when setting up a brand new car assuming you have set up the steering linkage on the car all right, servo horn in neutral position. Do you guys first set subtrim to fine tune the center point AND then set your EPA?
#22
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by BSchorr
I just reset my model on my m8, set my dual rate to 100%, put the servo horn on that is already attached to the turning linkages, and try to postition it on the best spline as possbile, set my end points, put it on the track, set my dual rate, and im gold.
You want to start off with the same dual rate on each car. I know when i reset a model on the M8, it resets the dual rate to 125, have to make sure to put it to 100
You want to start off with the same dual rate on each car. I know when i reset a model on the M8, it resets the dual rate to 125, have to make sure to put it to 100
#23
Very interesting thread guys. Thanks.
#24
I want to make it clear that I harbor no ill feelings towards any radio manufacturer nor do I blame the maker of my radio!! I dont want anyone thinking this is a "flame" thread which I am afraid it will become if we start naming brand names. But my radio, which I love is a KO helios. And I have t give major props to Robert at KO for suffering through this with me and trying to trouble shoot it.
Also-I want to be clear that I dont think the wandering EPA's, etc is caused directly from initially setting epa's and subtrim per se. What it is is being in a certain range of numbers (d/r in the mid ranges of say 40 to 70), epa's in the same range and subtrims (any value other than 0, but maybe worse if value is say 10 or higher).
Now those combined with changing d/r while driving and maybe all by itself will cause radio to not hold the Endpoint steady.
Also-I want to be clear that I dont think the wandering EPA's, etc is caused directly from initially setting epa's and subtrim per se. What it is is being in a certain range of numbers (d/r in the mid ranges of say 40 to 70), epa's in the same range and subtrims (any value other than 0, but maybe worse if value is say 10 or higher).
Now those combined with changing d/r while driving and maybe all by itself will cause radio to not hold the Endpoint steady.
#25
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
another thing to keep in mind is epa adjustments on throttle. i've helped many guys reset their speedos cuz they say it doesn't feel very smooth. what i found was they had their epa's at 100% or below and then setting their speedo which makes it less smooth and less variable. before resetting your electronic speedo to the radio, always make sure you max out the epa "high" and "low" (on the m8 and m11 the high maxes out at 140% and low maxes out at 160%)
this allows the speedo to spread out it's variableness in speed over a greater amount of area when you pull the throttle or push for brakes. once i set the speedo, i always leave the epa high at 140% and then turn the epa low down to 100% and set the push brake for track conditions from there.
good thread guys
racer-oZ
this allows the speedo to spread out it's variableness in speed over a greater amount of area when you pull the throttle or push for brakes. once i set the speedo, i always leave the epa high at 140% and then turn the epa low down to 100% and set the push brake for track conditions from there.
good thread guys
racer-oZ
#26
Manufacture terminology
Manufacture terminology can also add to the mix when bombarded with so so many options available on today's high end radios. One example of this is on the EX-10 Helios Dual Rate is called Steering Travel but on the Futaba radios it's just simply called Dual Rate. Another example of manufacture terminology differences: Steering Balance (KO) and End Point Adjustment (Futaba). This was one of the apparent differences that was noticed when switching from one manufacture to another.
My main reason for switching was mainly ergonomics and comfort. I can't tell any functional differences. My first radio was the 3pJ-super, the menu was not the easiest to navigate. When I got the 3pK, menu navigation was very easy, a night and day difference. I also get the same response from owners of the Helios that had the EX-1 Mars R.
My main reason for switching was mainly ergonomics and comfort. I can't tell any functional differences. My first radio was the 3pJ-super, the menu was not the easiest to navigate. When I got the 3pK, menu navigation was very easy, a night and day difference. I also get the same response from owners of the Helios that had the EX-1 Mars R.
#27
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by racer-oZ
another thing to keep in mind is epa adjustments on throttle. i've helped many guys reset their speedos cuz they say it doesn't feel very smooth. what i found was they had their epa's at 100% or below and then setting their speedo which makes it less smooth and less variable. before resetting your electronic speedo to the radio, always make sure you max out the epa "high" and "low" (on the m8 and m11 the high maxes out at 140% and low maxes out at 160%)
this allows the speedo to spread out it's variableness in speed over a greater amount of area when you pull the throttle or push for brakes. once i set the speedo, i always leave the epa high at 140% and then turn the epa low down to 100% and set the push brake for track conditions from there.
good thread guys
racer-oZ
this allows the speedo to spread out it's variableness in speed over a greater amount of area when you pull the throttle or push for brakes. once i set the speedo, i always leave the epa high at 140% and then turn the epa low down to 100% and set the push brake for track conditions from there.
good thread guys
racer-oZ
#28
Transmitter Seminar
Anybody up for doing a seminar on transmitter settings at the Carpet Nats in Stockton? This stuff is excellent!
#30
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by racer-oZ
another thing to keep in mind is epa adjustments on throttle. i've helped many guys reset their speedos cuz they say it doesn't feel very smooth. what i found was they had their epa's at 100% or below and then setting their speedo which makes it less smooth and less variable. before resetting your electronic speedo to the radio, always make sure you max out the epa "high" and "low" (on the m8 and m11 the high maxes out at 140% and low maxes out at 160%)
this allows the speedo to spread out it's variableness in speed over a greater amount of area when you pull the throttle or push for brakes. once i set the speedo, i always leave the epa high at 140% and then turn the epa low down to 100% and set the push brake for track conditions from there.
good thread guys
racer-oZ
this allows the speedo to spread out it's variableness in speed over a greater amount of area when you pull the throttle or push for brakes. once i set the speedo, i always leave the epa high at 140% and then turn the epa low down to 100% and set the push brake for track conditions from there.
good thread guys
racer-oZ
god.. why didnt i realize that?!