Aluma

iTrader: (1)

Hpi rally

tc3 with rally conversion

TamiyaTB01 with long arm

Tamiya TL01 LA

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Hey Aluma,
might as well put my 2 cents in even though you're looking to buy my rally.....

1.tl01 LA forget about it... the tl01 was never meant to be a rally chassis. Tamiya makes the Baja Champ buggy using the TL01 main chassis if you want to go that way

2. TB01 with long arms......Good,I have one....but the longer arms are primarily for handling. The shocks remain the same so shock travel is still short.

3 TC3 with conversion....haven't tried it...but I imagine it's much like the TB

4. Purpose built rally car...lots of shock travel. if I weren't hard core Tamiya...thats what I'd use.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Well the HPI has to have it's protective sheil, so that makes the electronics run hotter.

TL01 and TB01 come as Ralleys in the box, so that will save you a few dollars.

However the TC3 and conversion may be the best handling car, but also the easiest to brake......

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

The HPI is actually better because of the protective shell. The battery, speed control and receiver should never get that hot anyway. The motor is NOT covered and thats where all the heat is.

Action-RC.com

Here's my .02 cents. The Losi has a lot of good things going for it. Ball diffs, bearings, adjustable one way, lots of aftermarket parts, sealed driveline, aluminum shocks. Downsides though, only 190mm, Stock rally tires aren't worth a darn, has special size wheel hex.

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

my .02

Had or driven most all of the Rally Cars.

1. TC3, great handling, but dirt in the steering rack is a big problem.

2. HPI, prolly the best all around rally car, very durable, and no matter, the inner body is a great addition, some people vent them.

3. Ofna. just say no

4. Losi. Good car, hard to wrench on, but very durable.

5. Tamiya cars. TB series prolly a better choice

6. Yokomo. Hard to find, pretty good car.

7. Schumacher Great car on the small stuff, not good for the really rough, also has an inner body


I am sure other people can comment

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

yeah....the tc3 does look kinda flimsy
I know the tb is a tank and has limited arm travel.

and I know the hpi has those belts which tend to break...

but i need ground clearance so i guess the HPI is still gonna be the best choice.

Just wish i could find one with all the hopups on it already....
I didnt want to buy a stock one cuz then I'd have to spend a fortune on the slipper for the belt, the rrp top shaft, carbon top chassis, and the MIP's.

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

None of the guys around here run the Slipper. Personally I run a Rally weapon with the front clicker locked, my RW has been next to bulletproof, just dont like the saddle packs.

BTW, there are a coupl eof HPI's on ebay right now.. NIB for around 100

newracer

I have the HPI and it works well. It is almost bullet proof. I have busted a few graphite rear shock towers but that was from launching it about 4 feet in the air for about 25 feet onto asphalt. I bought mine used and got a really good deal. Mine has aluminum bulkheads, hubs, steering blocks and steering arms, Ti turnbuckles, graphite shock towers, RRP top shaft, slipper, and MIP shiny CVD's. All I need is a heat sink motor mount.

Cole Trickle

The most important thing to consider, are support. Check out your LHS. Get a car, which are good supported locally. If you need a spare part and cant get it fast, well, no driving....

HPI belts dont break. Well, unless you abuse them. That is, if you keep the throttle on, while the car cant move because it's driving into something.

The HPI Rally are solid as a tank. It drives good. It got ball bearings. And if you someday want to get into touring, the HPI Rally can do that as well, with a little conversion. I've seen one in a touring race - the guy won his class.

Good luck.