Rob Burns

iTrader: (4)

While I've seen Cyrul's car with X-ray arms on it, I tried it a few years ago and while they fit, it's not really right as it moves the wheels back about 10mm from their original position. I'm sure with the US chassis' with adjustable wheel base it may be possible to get the suspension geometry close to original.

Rob Burns

iTrader: (4)

If you're interested, this is my set up from earlier this year.

A couple of things that aren't on there:
Full alloy option kit
Links are in the rear most holes in the bulkheads at the front and forward most holes in the rear bulkheads.
I added the kit sway bar to the front since this set up and it made the car feel better in chicanes. Fastest lap times weren't any better but the car was more consistent so I was faster over all.

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

Rob - I actually had to dremal the arms and the chassis I ran had other holes to make the Xray arms work. This wasn't done from a performance standpoint but for durability to make sure arm/castor block/steering block breakage of the OEM HPI parts didn't cost us up front performances as the major foam tire races. At the Reedy Race and ROAR Asphalt Nats I went back to the stock Scythe with the HPI suspension and everything was great. Really, I wouldn't recommend the Xray arms unless you are going to run foam tires on a technical/high bite track with barriers that are unforgiving.

sosidge

Hi all,

Thought you might be interested to know that I have just finished building up a pre-production TOP ARP (Asphalt Rubber Pro).

This car will be on display on the Much-More UK stand at the BRCA Junior meeting at Bedworth (UK) this weekend if any of you are attending and want a closer look.

This car definitely has a brilliant spec for competitive rubber/tarmac racing, and the new TOP parts on it (for example the big pulleys and split bulkhead chassis) are a real step forward from the originals.

luic

Hello sosidge, The chassis is the same how the actual 2.5 mm US ? , if is the same, the new bulkheads is possible to use in the actual chassis ?.
I think, only buy a bulkheads, top deck and new transmision (pulleys and belts) for convert my car to a new Top.

I have installed a 2.5 chassis, with handmade "flex 2.5 top deck", and cut the covers bulkheads.

Other question, i make a spool and diff, with 35T pulleys to test, but i need to change the belts, the difference is only 2 tooth, the belts that need must be 2 tooth longer ?.

I only have the car 1 month, and this weekend go to test to the track of Euros, in 15 days is the championship.

Greetings, Luis c.

bigkoitat

iTrader: (6)

I recently just purchased the T.O.P Scythe, after not being in RC for 2 years and owned HPI pro-4's and a Tamiya 415. I did the build up and set the car up for parkinglot racing, usually with a new car and never running it before you would expect to be making alot of adjustments for better handling. NOT THIS CAR!!! Hands down the best car I have ever drove, the parking lot was smooth and dusty and it still hooked upas if you were at the Tamiya track. Definetly not a beginner car to build but the best handling I.M.O.

sosidge

Yes, the lower deck is the same as the existing 2.5mm US Spec, so the split bulkheads and new upper deck will fit any existing lower deck. These parts all fit together perfectly, no hint of tweak at all.

The new spec also comes with the HPI carbon suspension arms and quite a few other parts changes, partly to optimise the base setup, partly to replace outsourced parts with TOPs own ones. So unless people already have a very hopped up car it is probably going to be more economic to buy the ARP or CFP kit to get the latest spec.

35T pulleys (where did you get these?) would need a belt that is 1 tooth longer (belt only wraps half the pulley), the belts from the 33/17 conversion should fit a 35/15 car, although personally I really like the 37/17 pulleys on the new car, seem much smoother and are easier to assemble than the original setup.

luic

I use the carbon arms, c-hubs, etc,... from my Hotbodies.

The rear 35T pulley, is from Team Magic E4, and the front from Tamiya 415 one-way pulley, i donīt like the combination 35-15, this is only for a test, i like 37-17, too.

Thank you, very much. Luis C.

razzor

the 37/17 does sound good.
What cars come with 37t diff gears ???

sosidge

The new ARP has this combo and it is also available as a conversion for older Scythes, part number is PO-SDT110 for the full setup.

keithander

Thanks to Sosidge, we were able to display the ARP chassis at the BRCA Junior National Championships this weekend! Here's a short video of the car -apologies for the camera work!

E.J. Evans

thanks for the link Keith, looks good.

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

EJ, Had a hell ofa time getting it to track straight... The rear plates the hold the arms are off .5mm and that makes it 3 degrees toe-in on the left side.

Any one else have this problem?

I've ordered a new chassis from AMPdraw 3.5 mill chassis....

sosidge

If you're plates are 0.5mm off then they must be incorrectly machined because I have just measured up a few of the plates (ie suspension blocks) that I have and they are all spot on.

This problem sounds a lot like the one that HB Cyclone drivers complain about. I think the closest thing to an answer and the one I am inclined to believe is that the HPI rear hub mouldings are slightly uneven.

I did a rough measurement of my car and there is a small difference left/right, with left having maybe 0.5deg more toe-in than right. I can kind of eyeball a difference in the hubs just by looking at the angle of them relative to the arm. Straight line running has never been an issue for me though. I run the softer "high traction" parts by the way.

I think the mouldings are as much luck of the draw as anything else, some people seem to have a big difference in rear toe, others (like me) very little. Maybe the problem is more pronounced on the carbon parts?

Now one solution doing the rounds in the Cyclone forum (I only occasionally look in there mind you) is to ream out the hub hinge pin hole a little, and put a small grub scew in the edge to take out the angle. Apparently this is the Hara mod. I don't know if that is true or not.

Or you may be able to source some aftermarket hubs that have a more precise dimension. I know that Jet and 3Racing make alloy rear hubs but can't comment on the accuracy of their geometry, might be worth a try.

razzor

Now that you mention it this is what the Pro4 guys have mentioned as well.