T.O.P. Racing "Scythe" 1/10 EP Touring Car - Page 36

xray racer · 09-11-2007, 04:56 AM

Hey,

i'm still experimenting with alloy/ plastic bulkheads at the moment, but wasnt sure which way to go still...when you run plastic lower bulkheads do you run an alloy motor pod base??? or the standard plastic???

I'm struggling to find consistancy as you say.

Have you experimented with shock oils?... i run 35wt in mine at the moment but have been told to try 45wt+

Cheers

Robbie

sosidge · 09-11-2007, 05:28 AM

No, I'm running the whole car plastic. Alloy motor pod base probably adds more stiffness than any other part.

Stiffer car = harder to get consistent, but potentially quicker, especially on smooth, high-grip surfaces.

Foams/carpet I would definitely go all alloy. Rubber/carpet I would consider some/all alloy, well worth a test, rubber/asphalt I would also consider it but if the track is bumpy or the grip is poor you will most likely be happier with the plastic parts.

Re: shocks, I have gone for the Rayspeed RS14 piston, 3x 1.2mm holes, seems to make the car a bit more settled, less skittish, worth trying. Some people drill their own pistons, I don't trust the accuracy of my hands!

I'll just post up the stable setup, this is with a diff for maximum stability, unfortunately didn't get the chance to play with a spool at the weekend as there weren't enough blades in the "team" pitbox.

All parts/settings as Red 2007 kit unless stated otherwise.

Car: Scythe Red 2007 (plastic bulkheads/motor pod)

Front:

Pistons: Rayspeed RS14 (1.2mmx3mm)
Oil: Much More #450
Spring: TOP 1.4x5.5 (softer kit spring)
Inner camber link spacer: 2mm
Arm mount shims: 0.5mm F/R
Ride height: 5mm
Shock length: 63mm (one shock o-ring as bump stop)
Droop: 5 on gauge
Camber: 1 degree negative
Drive: Differential
Anti-roll bars: None

Rear:

Pistons: Rayspeed RS14
Oil: Much-More #400
Spring: TOP 1.4x6.0
Inner camber link spacer: 2mm
Arm mount shims: 0.5mm F/R
Ride height: 5.5mm
Shock length: 63mm (one shock o-ring as bump stop)
Droop: 4 on gauge
Camber: 1 degree negative
Drive: Differential
Anti-roll bars: None

Others:

Ballast: 55g next to ESC/motor plate (total weight 1505g)
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6
Tyres: Much-More AT32 premount
Cells: IB4200
Motor: Integy Blue Atlas 19T (31/78), Yokomo S-world 9x2 (23/78)
ESC: Keyence Rapida Pro
Servo: Futaba S9550, Kawada B-29 servo saver
Radio: Futaba 3VC/R133F

If running a one-way, try an extra 1mm spacer under the front arm mounts to smooth it out, still a stable setup but harder to drive in traffic.

This should be very stable, even your granny could drive it I think!

Tweaky · 09-13-2007, 01:16 PM

Hi guy's, just wondered if you would be interested in my 2 Scythes I have for sale. Pictures attached. Looking for £115 and £140 respectively. Post free in uk, but will post to rest of the world, for whatever it costs me.

I also include a couple of extra images of the Carbon Side Pod and 2 Piece top deck, that some of the Much More/R C Drifting team boys use. This also allows you to get the pinion off without removing the side pod.

Car descriptions:
#1 Standard 07 Red kits plus Alloy upper bulkheads, Alloy post, TOP Alloy rear diff, Alloy front Hubs, Carbon Side pod, Proper 2 piece top deck. Box. 6 meetings old.
#2 Standard 07 Red kits plus Alloy upper bulkheads, Carbon Side pod, Cut 2 piece top deck, Belt tensioner. Box. 3 meetings old.

Any questions, please post or pm me.

xray racer · 09-14-2007, 01:24 AM

where did you get that two piece top deck from???

sosidge · 09-14-2007, 02:19 AM

A shop in the UK called rc-drifting are selling the two piece upper deck - http://www.rc-drifting.com/shop/inde...a29e4c100813f8 - get in touch with them if you are interested.

Smartypants · 09-14-2007, 03:56 AM

Just cut your original top deck

Tweaky · 09-14-2007, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sosidge

A shop in the UK called rc-drifting are selling the two piece upper deck - http://www.rc-drifting.com/shop/inde...a29e4c100813f8 - get in touch with them if you are interested.

They buy them from me !!

These are precision machined parts, you can cut the top deck, or keep it in your pit box complete.

Tweaky · 09-26-2007, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tweaky

Hi guy's, just wondered if you would be interested in my 2 Scythes I have for sale. Pictures attached. Looking for £115 and £140 respectively. Post free in uk, but will post to rest of the world, for whatever it costs me.

Now SOLD !!!

Ericjooopuntnl · 10-03-2007, 12:55 AM

We did use the new modified pullies for a while and the give the car a more free feel in the drivtrain and cornerspeeds are awesome. The pullies are of a harder material and wear very little. Our driver Jan van Steeg wore two sets of old pullies in four races and now still has his pullies in perfect shape after another three races.

The new version 2 drive-shafts and the new Alu spool are also a very good addition to the car. Our driver Patrick had a lot of problems with the shafts in modified and broke every race somthing in the shaft-department. Since the Version 2 he didn't brake anything anymore, the spool is also bulletproof and even the blades wear very well.

The car has improved very much, and now we are going inside on high grip carpet. The training last weekend went very well, let's hope the car goes as well as on tarmac.

Mr. McGoo · 10-03-2007, 07:09 AM

I first want to thank TOP Racing for helping sponsor the 2007 IIC. With out all the sponsors help, it would not be possible. I was fortunate enough to win a Red Limited Edition IIC 2007 Top Scythe in the raffle drawing. I would love to run this car, but I don't think my car sponsor would like that too much....lol

So I am regrettably selling my car I won. If anyone is interested I have a sweet NIB Scythe...shoot me a PM and we can work something out....

thanks again to TOP for all of their support...

mcgoo

GreaseMonkey · 10-04-2007, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod M

I know I'm dredging up and old post here but is this top deck available or was it a one off?

MadBrushRacing · 10-09-2007, 01:30 PM

Hi all.

Going to be at carpetwars this weekend and will be changing to the 2.5mm from the 2mm chassie. does this mean if I run say 1mm under the suspension blocks and 2mm under the inner camber links with the 2mm chassie I have to reduce these by 0.5mm when running the 2.5mm chassie?

Also does anyone have a good starting setup for running stock?

Thanks

Tony

Nathan Parker · 10-09-2007, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadBrushRacing

Hi all.

Going to be at carpetwars this weekend and will be changing to the 2.5mm from the 2mm chassie. does this mean if I run say 1mm under the suspension blocks and 2mm under the inner camber links with the 2mm chassie I have to reduce these by 0.5mm when running the 2.5mm chassie?

Also does anyone have a good starting setup for running stock?

Thanks

Tony

Hey Tony save yourself loads of hard work and go buy an xray set ups in the box

MadBrushRacing · 10-09-2007, 02:18 PM

So Nathan,

What you running this weekend?

Did you sell all your xray stuff?

Thanks

Tony

sosidge · 10-10-2007, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadBrushRacing

Hi all.

Going to be at carpetwars this weekend and will be changing to the 2.5mm from the 2mm chassie. does this mean if I run say 1mm under the suspension blocks and 2mm under the inner camber links with the 2mm chassie I have to reduce these by 0.5mm when running the 2.5mm chassie?

Also does anyone have a good starting setup for running stock?

Thanks

Tony

That should give the same geometry from the ride height, yes.

I would just run it with the same settings as you normally do and see how you get along, if you don't like it try going down 0.5mm.