Orion V2 element motor
#1
Orion V2 element motor
I have just ordered one of these for my TC3.
I am new to this game so 2 questions (please explain in simply)
1. What gearing for dossing about in carparks, bit of drifting etc..., what do I need to buy to acheive it, I have been told to gear it to 6.0. what does this mean and what do I need to buy.
2. How do you run it in. Just drive slowly? if so for how long.
Sorry for the stupidity but I will learn!
I am new to this game so 2 questions (please explain in simply)
1. What gearing for dossing about in carparks, bit of drifting etc..., what do I need to buy to acheive it, I have been told to gear it to 6.0. what does this mean and what do I need to buy.
2. How do you run it in. Just drive slowly? if so for how long.
Sorry for the stupidity but I will learn!
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Since you're not racing, I'm going to assume you want the comm and brushes to last as long as possible. Use the Enduro brushes with hard springs on bothe + and - side. Gearing to 6.0 is the final drive ratio (FDR) That means the spur/pinion*the internal ratio, which on the tc3 I think is 2.5. www.gearchart.com will help with all your gearing issues The Element really likes to be geared tall, but that is for racing. Start the gearing at 5.8 and see how hot the motor gets after 5 minutes or so. Just remember to let the motor cool since you don't want to burn up the motor.
Break-in: if you don't have a charger that can do a motor run function, you have 2 easy alternatives. You can hook up 2 cells to the motor (with no load on it, so don't run it in your car) and let it spin for about 5 minutes. Or, you can keep the motor mounted in the car, and detach the pinion so it can spin freely. Then plug in the batteries and turn on the esc and just turn the throttle trim up a little bit so that the motor is only receiving a small amount of voltage from the esc.
Break-in: if you don't have a charger that can do a motor run function, you have 2 easy alternatives. You can hook up 2 cells to the motor (with no load on it, so don't run it in your car) and let it spin for about 5 minutes. Or, you can keep the motor mounted in the car, and detach the pinion so it can spin freely. Then plug in the batteries and turn on the esc and just turn the throttle trim up a little bit so that the motor is only receiving a small amount of voltage from the esc.
#3
Tech Regular
Check your spur gear, if it is 72t (stock gear TC3) then you will need a 30t pinion gear, if you have a 75t spur , use a 31t pinion.
#4
Tech Regular
I think the original brushes come with the motor are Enduro with soft springs(10 or 11coils, I'm not sure). Harder springs(8 or 9coils) will be better for racing, but for parking driving, the original springs are fine. Oh, make sure you have a very hot soldering iron. 60W or more
#6
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by XrayFK
Even if you are not racing, I still recommend the hard brushes, as the brushes will bounce too much with the soft springs.
#7
I will have a look at the hard brushes, thanks guys!. Why do I need a really hot iron? I dont know what it is but its probly older than me! Should I buy a new one?
#8
yea I have a 72T spur, so I need a 30T pinion. So I need some Hard springs and a 30T pinion! Cool, thanks guys. Also I have 4 *3000 nimh batteries and a Ripmax pro peak ac/dc delta peak fast carger. Can I have biger batteries, and will I see better runtimes? so at the moment
I have a final drive ratio of 7.5 (if I counted the pinion right at 24) So I am shortening the ratio making accelaration better top speed worse right? Would that not burn out the motor faster? if 6.0 is the best one, I'm sure you guys know best, I'll go along with that.
I have a final drive ratio of 7.5 (if I counted the pinion right at 24) So I am shortening the ratio making accelaration better top speed worse right? Would that not burn out the motor faster? if 6.0 is the best one, I'm sure you guys know best, I'll go along with that.
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Let me clarify the gearing for you If you "gear up" as in adding a pinion with more teeth, the actual number of the FDR will go lower. The higher the FDR, the more acceleration, and more top end with a lower FDR number. Of course, that's only true up to a certain optimal point. So in your case, 7.5 would have more acceleration than 6.0, but 6.0 would have more top end. You probably know that if you gear a motor too tall (too low of a FDR) then you will burn up the motor. Keep in mind that the same will happen if you gear too low, as the motor will be revving too high for the majority of the time.
The Element wants to push that taller gearing, so I would use a 31T pinion for best performance. Using a 30T pinion might give you a little longer runtime though.
Hope this helps.
The Element wants to push that taller gearing, so I would use a 31T pinion for best performance. Using a 30T pinion might give you a little longer runtime though.
Hope this helps.
#10
so 30T it is then, thanks mate big help. I'm clear on gearing now I think! I will get a 31. so its then geared at 5.8 right? Whats the top speed going to be on that gearing (roughly?)
#11
Tech Regular
why need a hot iron?
#12
Tech Addict
all the material in the V2 endbell is designed to dissapate heat. a weaker iron would go cold quick. you need an iron that makes a lot of heat and KEEPS it.
#13
I have a 40w, it should do the trick right?
#14
Tech Regular
A 60W will be better.
FYI, the solder on that motor contains silver, which makes it harder to melt so you definately need a 60W iron.
FYI, the solder on that motor contains silver, which makes it harder to melt so you definately need a 60W iron.
#15
ve springs trick??
whos has a link tothe trick to take out and reinstall the springs on the v2 .....