New Corally SP12X
#241
Im sure this may have been discussed so please now jump all over me, but will associated t-plates work? Im planning on using the associated front end on it till i get use to the car so I know what can go wrong with it, but besides the lower pod plate, is there anything else I should carry on hand, along with t-bars?
thanks
thanks
#242
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
congrats to marc fischer on his win. i wonder if he used the standard front end or the associated front, as well as corally or other manufactures tires.
In 1/12th modified, Marc Fischer used those precious CRC Pro Cut tires to destroy the modified field. Fischer used CRC Magenta front #2172 and Magenta rear #2176 Pro Cuts to T.Q. and win the prestigious modified field. Also found on Fischer's car was a plethora of CRC items, from the red CRC Durashock #4281 to the entire line of CRC front end parts (4287, 4275, 4265). Fischer was the only car in the A-mod main using Pro Cuts and the dominance of the wheel and rubber design showed.
#243
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
surprizingly the car is pictured on the teamcrc.com site in their article on the success of their products at the SB's. from the way i read it, he was the only one in the Mod A-main that ran their pro-cut wheels.
#244
interesting isent it
#245
I agree Wally........
#246
I heard that the Corally car had mad rip from a GM brushless system. Supposedly, no one was even close to his horsepower.
#247
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The SP12X that won at the Snowbirds used an AE .075" T-Bar with AE pivot balls, tweek screws and a full AE front suspension.
#248
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by mooony
The picture on crc site doesn't show that it used a AE T-Bar and AE Pivot balls. Do yo have any picture of his A-Main car with AE T-Bar?
#249
Originally Posted by AdrianM
No, but I looked at the car for a few minutes after the A-main and I am pretty familiar with what those parts look like
#251
Tech Master
The holes do indeed line up. However i can't see any real point in doing it - apart from spares availability maybe for some guys in the US??
Although the holes line up, it's still not easy. You need AE pivot balls/cups. Then you need to decide what you are going to do about the post up to the radio tray/damper mount. 12X has the post going through the T bar - AE bring it up off the T bar cup. Only thing i'm not sure about - AE bar is wider, not sure if cell spacing is ok?
Like someone else said, the pics i saw of MF's car had corally T bar - looks like origional thick one.
http://rcforum.co.kr/news/thumbnail/....resampled.jpg
Although the holes line up, it's still not easy. You need AE pivot balls/cups. Then you need to decide what you are going to do about the post up to the radio tray/damper mount. 12X has the post going through the T bar - AE bring it up off the T bar cup. Only thing i'm not sure about - AE bar is wider, not sure if cell spacing is ok?
Like someone else said, the pics i saw of MF's car had corally T bar - looks like origional thick one.
http://rcforum.co.kr/news/thumbnail/....resampled.jpg
#253
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Marc said the car was faster with the AE T-bar. He tried both. The pic you have linked below is of his car early in practice.
I am not here to start anything..I am just saying what I saw.
I am not here to start anything..I am just saying what I saw.
thanks.
#254
Tech Master
No that's cool, explains nicely.
Do you know which AE bar by chance ???
I have to confess i did seriously think about trying them a couple of months ago, but then when corally changed (or i knew they were changing) theirs i didn't bother. The new 12X ones do look more like AE bars
Like i say, the only thing you need to "sort" when making the change is what to do about the post - if anything. I have seen pics of it done with the post just left out!!
Do you know which AE bar by chance ???
I have to confess i did seriously think about trying them a couple of months ago, but then when corally changed (or i knew they were changing) theirs i didn't bother. The new 12X ones do look more like AE bars
Like i say, the only thing you need to "sort" when making the change is what to do about the post - if anything. I have seen pics of it done with the post just left out!!
#255
Tech Fanatic
It's all a straight swap - get all the Corally stuff off and bolt the AE T-bar on the chassis and pod. Look at it closely though, because there is a fundamental difference between the two that means the spacer between the T-bar and the pod might not be right, and needs replacing. I'd just leave the centre post out, to be honest. (MattW, post above says he used the thick AE T-bar)
Before you worry too much, note that the new Corally T-bar is now shaped like an AE one (as MattW says), so offering a stiffer 'ride' than the original one with a lot more strength.
Because of the mounting system, using inserts in the T-bar instead of nuts, the Corally bar is much more stable after a knock, and doesn't require any time to settle back into 'the groove'. Just wait 'til the tyres clean up and off you go - no tweak, and no handling differences. HTH
Before you worry too much, note that the new Corally T-bar is now shaped like an AE one (as MattW says), so offering a stiffer 'ride' than the original one with a lot more strength.
Because of the mounting system, using inserts in the T-bar instead of nuts, the Corally bar is much more stable after a knock, and doesn't require any time to settle back into 'the groove'. Just wait 'til the tyres clean up and off you go - no tweak, and no handling differences. HTH