AlexPate

iTrader: (19)

Gripworks RC is having a VBC RACING sale
VBC RACING 50% off clearance sale Discount Code: VBCRACING

Pedmar007

I have a question regarding the orientation of the suspension arms. I've read in the manual and online that the markings on the arms are to be in the same direction. That's a given np, my query is do they also have to be in the same direction from front to rear or just from left to right? Can anyone answer this to say it does make a difference having all 4 arms showing the color indicator in the same direction in terms of pointing to the front of the kit or towards the rear depending on which side you flip the arms to mount.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

The markings are simply there to indicate the hardness of the arms, and depending on who did the marking at the factory, there is nothing that guarantees that those marked will have to correct orientation in relation to where they are located in the car. The marking you should be concerned with is the factory nub that is molded into the arm, those have to be oriented the same left to right, but not neccesarily front to rear. the "dot" orientation is so that the shock angle is correct from left to right.

Pedmar007

thanks.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

There is a marking for the hardness (color dot) but there is also a marking for the direction that is molded in. This is there because the holes for mounting the shocks are different on one edge from the other. There are actually 4 different mounting positions fir the shock on the arm. It doesn't matter front of car or rear of car if the match but they must match side to side on the same end.

Pedmar007

Thanks.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

You are welcome. Easiest place to screw up during assembly or when replacing one. I add my own color mark because the molding is hard to see.

Pedmar007

I bought the kit 2nd hand and it came with diff arms at the rear. Since I never built one before I thought that's how it was so when I needed new arms I just bought rear arms not understanding the differences in thickness or orientation.

Pedmar007

I bought a complete set of silver front and rear as what I have on the kit are not matching. So this way from what you guys told me, I will finally have the correct arms and would now have accurate settings for the setup.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

Just a history lesson: There is a large variety of molded suspension parts from VBC that fit this car. Arms from their very first car are nearly the same dimensionally. The first big change came in the steering knuckle where the arm was thickened for strength. Then the compound differences started. The very first just had a slight change in the color of the material. That was difficult to see other than the very first parts that were light grey. Now the company has adopted the color code. That makes it much easier.

Pedmar007

Yeah I see that. Only now learning the differences in these parts. I'm a newbie to all of this and since I drive on one track solely, learning these differences will be a big help.

Pedmar007

Btw I'm actually using the vbc ghost and not the ghost18 or ghost evo.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

The only car that the arms are dramatically different is the D10. Main differences in all the other cars is the motor mount, shocks and the steering system. Small differences in the hinge pin mounts so be careful there.

Pedmar007

That is very true as I have 3 arms on the car that don't have the color dots but yet 2 are the same thickness and color but the 3rd is darker and thicker. So that's when after reading a comment here that I realized I've been punishing myself all this time trying to get the car to stick and all the time working against myself without knowing.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

That can happen. Sometimes with any car you can get out of the box. Best thing to do when you start to struggle with a car is back up, take a breath and evaluate. I race in the F1 class and last fall I got out of the box a few weeks before a major, the Cleveland Indoor Champs. I struggled at that event. Our local track had a couple of practice days after that and I took that car only to the track. Went back to basics and got back on track. The next major was the Snowbirds and not only was that program better (I finished 2nd in the "A") my other two classes were better also (3rd in WGT-R and VTA "A's"). By the way I had qualified 2nd in VTA and my car is the Ghost 18. To pump myself up another notch, I am 68 years old and proud that I can compete at that level and this age.