SpeedyDad

iTrader: (13)

I'm getting a used T1FK05 (can't afford the T2) for my son to move up from his quasi FT TC4. The LHS where we race doesn't carry XRay parts so I would like to find out what the common breakage parts are so I can get some to keep with the car.

I've done the search thing and didn't find a specific thread on this. I started reading the whole T1FK05 thread (173 pages) but my eyes went crossed after the first few dozen.

Thanks

Sal Amato

iTrader: (27)

the most common things that break on the Xray are :
UPPER BUMPER MOUNT 301200
C-HUBS RIGHT 302282(3DEG) LEFT 302284(3 DEG)
STEERING KNUCKLE RIGHT 302250 LEFT302260
THE REAR UPRIGHTS DONT USUALLY BREAK BUT THE SCREW THAT HOLDS THE CAMBER LINK IN SOMETIMES STIPS OUT 303350UNIVERSAL LEFT AND RIGHT
IT WOULDNT HURT TO HAVE A SPARE ARM OR 2 FRONT AND REAR ALTHOUGH I HAVE NEVER PERSONALLY BROKEN ONE.

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

The car is remarkably strong.

I would recommend also Pdub racing front bumper...the rear uprights seems to be an issue when people are running spacers under their camber links, thereby not engaging enough threads on the screws...you can greatly reduce this issue by using a slightly longer 3mm screw

You may also want to look into the spring steel front hexes to save you time if you do break. (no worries about flared ends making it difficult yo slide through the bearings)

You should also check out the forums at www.teamxray.com for more info and assistance

SpeedyDad

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for all the great info. I'm just waiting for the seller to get his new T2, then we get the FK05. My son can't wait. We also hot a Helios EX-10 on eBay for a pretty good price. He got to try one and liked the feel of it much more than his JR XS3

429racer

iTrader: (19)

A couple guys at our track say to carry a spare bell crank and the aluminuma shaft it pivots on as they tend to bend or break from what they tell me.

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

Wow...I don't know what they're hitting or how...but it would take a pretty intense impact to damage that part

PaintingRoly

iTrader: (56)

In 2 years of running XRAY I've only broken 1 castor block and it had the king pin mod done to it (making it thinner where it broke) and the only other thing I ever ever broke was a shock body (I've seen a few others break this part too). It's by far the most "bullet proof" car I've ever owned. I've got my T2 on the way but I'm keeping my FK05 and wish I had kept my EVO2

Roly

polesitter61

iTrader: (4)

Keep some spare plastic blades the go in the diff side of the dogbones. I don't know what type on track your running but if it's asphalt and your running a spool you'll go through the blades almost every weekend, with a diff it won't be as bad. I'm with Rolly, a very durable car, I've had mine since last March and the only things I have had to replace we're 1 front c-hub, 1 rear upright, 1 rear belt, and those plastic blades. All of the above mentioned parts were broken with a 7x1 checkpoint mod motor. I've NEVER had a part failure with a stock or 19t motor.

Twin-Kyle

This should be all you need.
I've been driving the 05 for almost a year and only just changed my first part...rear upright,for the reason stated above.(stripping out the camber link screw.)
Gota to say...the 05 is one tough car.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I would DEFINTELY recomend a P-DUB bumper. Keep on eye on the origianl foam bumper if you don't get a p-dub. It will start to tear after a bit if you're like me and learning NOT to hit stuff. At the end of its life it doesn't protect like it should and you are MUCH more likely to break something. If you're doing carpet I would pick up a set of shock ends (get the ones sold in a pack of four for the T2. They fit the 05 and you don't have to buy anything else. Should be about $4.75. Make sure you replace them by the "axle" though as they are a slighlty different length than the original '05 eyelets) The 28 mm foam wheels tend to cut into them which weakens them and the eventually crack through. In the front you can correct for it by adjusting your EPA, and in the rear you just need to make sure you have enough material from the arm cut away to recess the shick. With that said I have still broken them as the wheel will flex and hit the eyelet.
FYI

Speedo

sns820 was spot on. I tend to break the steering blocks and upper bumper braces the most. Might also want to pick up some spare 12mm screws as they sometimes bend when the steering blocks break. Part # 902312.

Josh

andsetinn

If you race in parking lot with lots of small rocks a spare rear drive belt could be handy.
Most breakage depends on driving.
The spur gear is also a good spare to have, you'll most likely have couple for gearing anyway, but the spur gear is not the one type fits all type.

sanfransoxfan04

iTrader: (1)

This thread has been icnredibly useful, thanks everyone. I too am buying a used TK05 from a T2 racer. It includes all his spares but am curious which parts will be the first to break. I am upgrading from a TC4 RTR kit.