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Old 02-05-2006, 01:09 PM
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Default some battery questions

hey guys i have been tryeing to get some answers on the following questions but i just cant get the right answers. so here they come again

1 If i bought theese
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=EP0074 could i then match them my self with the TURBO 35 GFX CHARGER . and how high volt could i expect from theese cells i am just gonna use them for training cells.

2 I have been lokking for some 3600 mha cells and i found some with a very high volt 1.24 v are they worth the money

3 for my competition packs should i buy 3800 mha 1.20+ ore team orion 3700 mha sp2 cells i am racing stock.

4 question wich one of theese batteries would be the best for training ore racing packs i need 3-4 trainin and 3 racing packs

Promatch 3600 mha 1.2+
promatch 3800 mha 1.20+
epich the ones in the first question
team orion 3700 sp2 matched
3600 mha 1.24+

I really hope to get some answers here
if anyone has some other surgestions i can say that my budget is 325 $ maximum


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Old 02-05-2006, 03:05 PM
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I'll try to answer your questions the best I can.
To match packs, you have to buy lots and lots of cells. Matchers supposedly show the voltage and runtime of every cell, then you match all the cells up and get the most even pack. (in a nut shell) There is a new method of matching cells, look in the signature at axxis-racing. So, unless you plan on buying a bunch of cells, not advised to match yourself. Not to mention a matcher40 is $400+.

If you are on a tight budget, I'm sure that you have noticed that 36's are cheaper than other cells, they aren't bad by any means but the new GP and 38's are better. Axxis has had best luck with the 3800's and thats what I would advise getting, but at this point anything from IB of GP is not bad.

The matcher doesn't really mean anything, most companies just use turbomatchers..and in theory a pack from Trinity and Orion with the same numbers should be the same. Again, I would spring for the 38's, they seem to hold their punch longer than other cells.

Anything from the big companies will be reliable, but maybe pay a higher price for. Find prices that you like in the cells you want, and take your time building the cells. I am very fond of the high end Axxis cells, crazy punch and run time, and the solder that he sells puts a nicer finish on the luck.

Good luck in the search.
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:53 PM
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thank you very mutch that i could use but i was palnning on buying the promatch 3800 mha 1.2+ cells dont you think that would be the best
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:09 PM
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I have run just about every manufacturer's packs and I think Axxis has the best to offer right now. Again, any 3800's from a reliable matcher, including promatch you can not go wrong with.
Have fun with them mostly, its just a hobby
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DanGriffin
I have run just about every manufacturer's packs and I think Axxis has the best to offer right now. Again, any 3800's from a reliable matcher, including promatch you can not go wrong with.
Have fun with them mostly, its just a hobby
I totally agree!

Axxis Batteries have better matched IB 3800 cells then any other battery company todate!
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech
I totally agree!

Axxis Batteries have better matched IB 3800 cells then any other battery company todate!
thanks for your OPINION
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:12 PM
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BTW guys, i have a newb question that how long a typical 6cell-3300(e.g. 415sec,1.78volts) pack produces their punch ? 5-10mins?I'm asking because i recently bought some 3300 matched packs and they've perfromed for around 2 mins max after hours charging...
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by R-job
BTW guys, i have a newb question that how long a typical 6cell-3300(e.g. 415sec,1.78volts) pack produces their punch ? 5-10mins?I'm asking because i recently bought some 3300 matched packs and they've perfromed for around 2 mins max after hours charging...
How are you discharging/charging your packs? Also, what is the IR of the pack? My IB3800 packs don't even drop below 7v until 300sec @35A.

Again, it might not be your batteries, your motor could be overheating, gearing is off, etc.
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Old 02-07-2006, 12:03 PM
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You state it took you hours to charge? If so, thats your problem. You should be charging them between 5 and 6 amps, and the charge should be finished in around 40 minutes.
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Old 02-07-2006, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by XrayFK
How are you discharging/charging your packs? Also, what is the IR of the pack? My IB3800 packs don't even drop below 7v until 300sec @35A.

Again, it might not be your batteries, your motor could be overheating, gearing is off, etc.
I charge my batteries using Duratrax IntelliPeak Digital charger.The IRs run from 2.4-2.5. I first discharge->Peak charge->Slow charge @ 6A-6.5A following the manual recommemds.And how do you adjust the AMP of the charger while mine only has 6.5A max adjustable?And last question is how long your 3800 usual produce after a full charge?Thanks
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by R-job
I charge my batteries using Duratrax IntelliPeak Digital charger.The IRs run from 2.4-2.5. I first discharge->Peak charge->Slow charge @ 6A-6.5A following the manual recommemds.And how do you adjust the AMP of the charger while mine only has 6.5A max adjustable?And last question is how long your 3800 usual produce after a full charge?Thanks
I step charge my 3300 packs, but for 3800s I feel that a linear 6A charge works perfect.
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:15 PM
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But how many minutes those 3800s can be punched?Sounds like they much better than mine 3300s...
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:23 PM
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For the 3800s, you dont want to use a trickle charge, or what you are refering to as a slow charge. After peaking(using a charge rate over 4 amps), the batteries are ready to use. The length of time the batteries last depends on the motor. A stock motor will last around 8-10 minutes and a mod will last from 5-7 under racing conditions.
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:27 PM
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what does it mean by matched or unmatched???
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by anthony390
what does it mean by matched or unmatched???
Here's a little source: http://rcsource.hobbypeople.net/faqs/matchedb.htm
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