396LikesGizmo Racing GZ2!!!
03-08-2018, 12:32 PM
#242
By no means am I saying Gizmo is perfect. Like RoyB said, we're all humans... That being said, if there is any issue with the kit, we do stand behind out product and want to make sure that it gets taken care of for you, and to try and avoid that happening again. If this is the first non traditional kit you've built I'm sure its been challenging. Believe it or not, the first Gizmo was harder to build... But as you can see, we are here as a "family"(in a sense) to try and help everyone out. So if you have any questions please feel free to ask!
03-09-2018, 09:48 AM
#244
The mount is whatever came with my GZ2. I don’t think there’s anything special with it. The steering rack is LS1 from Awesomatix. It works a lot like LS2, but with bushings instead of bearings. I find it to be a little less fiddly. I hear it’s more durable than LS2, but I haven’t had trouble with either. LS1 is something I added on my own.
03-09-2018, 10:31 AM
#245
The mount is whatever came with my GZ2. I don’t think there’s anything special with it. The steering rack is LS1 from Awesomatix. It works a lot like LS2, but with bushings instead of bearings. I find it to be a little less fiddly. I hear it’s more durable than LS2, but I haven’t had trouble with either. LS1 is something I added on my own.
03-10-2018, 09:27 AM
#246
Please drop me a line with any items that may be missing or that you had trouble with on the kit. I will more than gladly send you a few pieces free of charge.
Last thing we want is issues with the kit and you feeling like you are on an island. I want to make sure that you are taken care of.
I will say this, building a Gizmo, much like an awesomatix is not the "Easiest" of builds. They are even frustrating at times, but once assembled, they drive so nice and fast. You will get better at s lot of the nuisances of the car and we are here to help you get though it.
03-10-2018, 05:41 PM
#247
Do you guys have a method or order for adjusting the upper lengths?
When setting up camber, caster, and toe, every change affects the other settings. I'm not sure I'm doing it right as it takes multiple attempts to get the readings in the ball park.
Currently I use gauges to get camber and toe, then eyeball the caster. I also measure all the lengths to make sure its relatively balanced.
When setting up camber, caster, and toe, every change affects the other settings. I'm not sure I'm doing it right as it takes multiple attempts to get the readings in the ball park.
Currently I use gauges to get camber and toe, then eyeball the caster. I also measure all the lengths to make sure its relatively balanced.
03-10-2018, 07:14 PM
#248
Do you guys have a method or order for adjusting the upper lengths?
When setting up camber, caster, and toe, every change affects the other settings. I'm not sure I'm doing it right as it takes multiple attempts to get the readings in the ball park.
Currently I use gauges to get camber and toe, then eyeball the caster. I also measure all the lengths to make sure its relatively balanced.
When setting up camber, caster, and toe, every change affects the other settings. I'm not sure I'm doing it right as it takes multiple attempts to get the readings in the ball park.
Currently I use gauges to get camber and toe, then eyeball the caster. I also measure all the lengths to make sure its relatively balanced.
03-10-2018, 07:58 PM
#249
I check camber and castor at the same time on my arrow max station with a 2inch screw. The middle of the screw is the castor number.
03-11-2018, 09:00 AM
#250
I set my camber first, caster second. Then I go back and check my camber again and if I adjust it at all, I check castor again until both are set perfectly. After they are set, I then set toe and re-check camber and castor again to make sure nothing moved. It is a little more work than normal cars but definitely worth it.
I use a setup station and the castor doodles. I would not want to try setting up the GZ or AX cars without a station but as Cap has showed us, it is possible.
I use to think I didn’t need a set up station and they were only used by the obsessive elite but I completely changed my tune a couple years ago once I put what I thought was a perfect setup on a station my friend had....boy was I wrong!!! My eyes and camber gage turned castor gage were off big time corner to corner to corner.
Being off by 1* castor one direction and then off 1* in the opposite direction on the other side of the car makes a HUGE difference in the car on the track.
Ever since then, I put my cars on the setup station after every race and reset the car to perfect (if needed).
I use a setup station and the castor doodles. I would not want to try setting up the GZ or AX cars without a station but as Cap has showed us, it is possible.
I use to think I didn’t need a set up station and they were only used by the obsessive elite but I completely changed my tune a couple years ago once I put what I thought was a perfect setup on a station my friend had....boy was I wrong!!! My eyes and camber gage turned castor gage were off big time corner to corner to corner.
Being off by 1* castor one direction and then off 1* in the opposite direction on the other side of the car makes a HUGE difference in the car on the track.
Ever since then, I put my cars on the setup station after every race and reset the car to perfect (if needed).
03-16-2018, 08:35 AM
#253
I've been testing/running the around motor top deck for a few months. I ran it at snowbirds, as well as my local track and a few other places, that have more grip than birds. I've been running the 1.5 deck for a while, as I tested the 2mm at snowbirds and it was far too stiff(for there). I recently tried it again, and I found that it was a little better(more consistent and faster) than the 1.5 deck. The car felt like it was "springy" when it rotated in the corner. I raised the top deck .5mm and it seemed to really be a nice improvement over the 1.5 deck. This would be on a medium bite smaller track. I will be doing some more testing next weekend at Windy City.
Additionally I've been testing the rear anchor weight system. I really like this part on 99% of the tracks that I have raced on. It does a few things for the car.
I've gives it some more initial steering, due to the increased weight transfer.
It also gives the car more rotation, or stability (depending on how far out the weights are).
I did find on tracks that had high speed sections into 180's that you could potentially traction roll,or have the car become unpredictable in the corners.
The last thing that I've been messing with is the carbon fiber center spline. Since we have gone to horizontal top deck, we found that the regular brass spline can sometimes be too stiff. I found myself running just 1 screw in it, or taking it out. The carbon spline is a really nice tuning option.
It gives the car a nice consistency, as well as some additional stability in some of the high speed speed sections. I've been running it up 3mm, but recently I have been really liking a 1.5mm shim and a small shock o-ring under it. It adds some rotation, while not being "springy" (springy is what I've been describing as the car loads up going into a corner and then when it dissipates the energy it sometimes produces an inconsistent rotation for the car)
Additionally I've been testing the rear anchor weight system. I really like this part on 99% of the tracks that I have raced on. It does a few things for the car.
I've gives it some more initial steering, due to the increased weight transfer.
It also gives the car more rotation, or stability (depending on how far out the weights are).
I did find on tracks that had high speed sections into 180's that you could potentially traction roll,or have the car become unpredictable in the corners.
The last thing that I've been messing with is the carbon fiber center spline. Since we have gone to horizontal top deck, we found that the regular brass spline can sometimes be too stiff. I found myself running just 1 screw in it, or taking it out. The carbon spline is a really nice tuning option.
It gives the car a nice consistency, as well as some additional stability in some of the high speed speed sections. I've been running it up 3mm, but recently I have been really liking a 1.5mm shim and a small shock o-ring under it. It adds some rotation, while not being "springy" (springy is what I've been describing as the car loads up going into a corner and then when it dissipates the energy it sometimes produces an inconsistent rotation for the car)
03-16-2018, 12:31 PM
#254
Brass weight
On the original GZ1 we would run the brass weight in the car but only put the 1 flat head screw in the back hole and a set screw thru the front hole to keep it centered but not secured. Keep the set screw just above flush with the chassis. That works also.