Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Motor Endbell Shorts    Boom!!!! >

Motor Endbell Shorts Boom!!!!

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Motor Endbell Shorts Boom!!!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-02-2006, 04:48 AM
  #16  
Company Representative
iTrader: (14)
 
Tres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: WWW.TNT-FX.COM
Posts: 3,403
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Short circuit protection would be hard to do and cause a loss of ESC performance I think.

As the resistance of the motor is so low to begin with.
Tres is offline  
Old 02-06-2006, 09:36 AM
  #17  
Team Tekin
Thread Starter
 
Tekin Prez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,185
Default

This is an extremely fast event thousands of times per second.. unless you are full on. It is a dead short across a very impressive battery built to deliver high current quickly.... but not this quickly. The problem is the type of load, resistive versus inductive.

Both hoods is the worst, but either hood can create some interesting circuits thru the conductive chassis to other points.

Tekin Prez

Last edited by Tekin Prez; 02-07-2006 at 04:11 PM.
Tekin Prez is offline  
Old 02-07-2006, 01:59 PM
  #18  
Team Tekin
Thread Starter
 
Tekin Prez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,185
Default

Found another today that burned up a Rebel esc. Sure enough the motor in question had a shorted endbell to both brushhoods.... and turns out had burned up a speedo before this and why they bought the Tekin Rebel to begin with.

If we do not warranty these failures, which we should not, this may be good for sales....but bad for ave Joe...

Tekin Prez
Tekin Prez is offline  
Old 02-07-2006, 02:19 PM
  #19  
Company Representative
iTrader: (14)
 
Tres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: WWW.TNT-FX.COM
Posts: 3,403
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Hmmmm.....

I wonder why not much response from the motor guys???
Tres is offline  
Old 02-07-2006, 09:13 PM
  #20  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: St. Albans, WV
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tres
Hmmmm.....

I wonder why not much response from the motor guys???
I was thinking the same thing. Anyone?...Anyone?...Anyone?...
killswitch is offline  
Old 02-08-2006, 06:09 AM
  #21  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
DustinR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 1,571
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I have had like 12+ Orion V2 motors. And of those12, 2 endbells have shorted. I am running the LRP QC1 and although the endbells were toast the ESC has always been fine. Just shairing,
DustinR is offline  
Old 02-08-2006, 06:30 AM
  #22  
Company Representative
 
"ULTIMATEPOWER"'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: HEART OF DIXIE
Posts: 813
Default

the v2 series are really bad about this situation, due to the endbell being solid aluminum they have to glue the brush hoods in, thus them being round doesnt help the subject once they get hot over several usages... also the capboard is on the inside which doesnt help things at all, if top would replace/change the brush dampners on the inside of the bell i think it would help alot of the problems.

The Epic shock series has an aluminum bell as well, but we havent had any problems with there bells, epic uses alot higher quality glue and cap board, plus the brushes are parallel with one another not causing them to bounce around as bad.

Just my .2 cents, and from experience with these motors.
"ULTIMATEPOWER" is offline  
Old 02-15-2006, 04:48 PM
  #23  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If you run the V2 motors I reccomend removing the endbell and cleaning it every 3 runs. I had a V2 motor showing a short from both hoods to the can. I cleaned the motor and it was open. The brush dust was causing a short.
Stefan Millay is offline  
Old 02-15-2006, 07:15 PM
  #24  
Tech Elite
 
PitCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Seattle Indoor Raceway
Posts: 2,129
Default

Originally Posted by ULTIMATEPOWER
the v2 series are really bad about this situation, due to the endbell being solid aluminum they have to glue the brush hoods in, thus them being round doesnt help the subject once they get hot over several usages... also the capboard is on the inside which doesnt help things at all, if top would replace/change the brush dampners on the inside of the bell i think it would help alot of the problems.

The Epic shock series has an aluminum bell as well, but we havent had any problems with there bells, epic uses alot higher quality glue and cap board, plus the brushes are parallel with one another not causing them to bounce around as bad.

Just my .2 cents, and from experience with these motors.
Uh...
THe parallel brushes are more condusive to brush bounce than the V2 endbells with their angled brushes. Thats what the big deal is with those and why the comm last so much longer. The axial forces applied to the brushes from the comm's rotation is not able to push the brush away, therefore there is less brush bounce on the comm, and the comm lasts way longer because there is less sparking and mechanical wear.

And, I have heard of major problems with the epic endbells, namely the Shock motor. From a large OEM company, they had to send back a BUNCH of motors because they were shorted when they were brand new. Something about the brush tubes scratching the anodizing off when they are assembled...

Just note that the "glue" in these cases is NOT what insulates the brush tubes from the solid aluminum endbells. It is the anodizing. And, if the anodizing isn't done correctly, or it is not thick enough, it can be scratched and cause a short. If anodizing is done properly, it is VERY difficult to scratch, and the anodization is VERY hard, something like 60 HrC...
PitCrew is offline  
Old 02-16-2006, 02:39 AM
  #25  
Tech Champion
 
asw7576's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Default

Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
ESC's may thermaly shut down, not to sure if you can install short circuit protection to....
Place automotive fuse 30A between ESC & MOTOR ( positive / red ) and battery terminal ( positive / red ). Direct soldering to fuse's legs.

ESC positive terminal ---| -------> 30A fuse ------> Battery Positive
MOT positive terminal ---|


Good thing about it : If you mistakeny short the battery positive to negative and vice versa, the fuse will blown.... saving it from mosfet burn. Ditto with failed motor scenario.

Bad thing about it : your car look weird.
asw7576 is offline  
Old 02-17-2006, 03:32 AM
  #26  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by asw7576
Place automotive fuse 30A between ESC & MOTOR ( positive / red ) and battery terminal ( positive / red ). Direct soldering to fuse's legs.

ESC positive terminal ---| -------> 30A fuse ------> Battery Positive
MOT positive terminal ---|


Good thing about it : If you mistakeny short the battery positive to negative and vice versa, the fuse will blown.... saving it from mosfet burn. Ditto with failed motor scenario.

Bad thing about it : your car look weird.
Thats interesting, would a 30 amp fuse be enough though? With these solid endbell motors a short can happen at any time. A crash or someone rams you from behind (offroad).
Stefan Millay is offline  
Old 02-19-2006, 05:52 PM
  #27  
Team Tekin
Thread Starter
 
Tekin Prez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,185
Default

I do not expect a fuse would offer any protection for an endbell short, but would protect against a dead short somewhere in the wiring. Most fuses are rated generally with a amp rating, but require a much higher current for some period of time to blow quickly. The endbell shorts do not neccessarily pass more power than a good motor.... they just pass it different due to the lack of inductance and allow for almost instantaneous changes in current.... and that is a bad thing if you are a FET...

Tekin Prez
Tekin Prez is offline  
Old 02-19-2006, 06:49 PM
  #28  
Tech Adept
 
FBJ's RDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Soon to be in the Darkside
Posts: 176
Default

This is kinda off topic...What would be the best way to check for if your armature has shorted out? Thanks
FBJ's RDX is offline  
Old 02-20-2006, 02:06 AM
  #29  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,870
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by FBJ's RDX
This is kinda off topic...What would be the best way to check for if your armature has shorted out? Thanks
This is guess work but.... each stack should have the same amount of windings and amount of wire on it, so in theory, each stack should be pretty close in resistance. So you could measure the resistance of each stack (using a multimeter on each segment of the comm, working around), two stacks would be similar/same and one stack would have a far diferent reading.
DA_cookie_monst is offline  
Old 02-21-2006, 07:58 PM
  #30  
Team Tekin
Thread Starter
 
Tekin Prez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,185
Default

Pretty difficult to measure with a digital voltage meter... we are talking about milli ohms. Also a short does not neccessarily change the resistance, but can eliminate winds.. which is torque... if it is between windings or short to other places and cause various issues. You may see a comm plate that is different than others due to current surges in that winding or lack of

As always HEAT is king in electronics. Bad motors get hot and just do not run good.typically lack "clear the tripple punch" and run time.

Tekin Prez
Tekin Prez is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.