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Old 03-31-2002, 04:18 PM   #1456
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Oh man, I really really want to have a race, but here in New York City I can't find any track around. Too bad, right? I have a yok and I am trying to order a Sp converstion online, but they are all gone. Um...I still have a Tamiya's TA03F, which I ordered a converstion kit already. TA03 is a nice car too but it's too heavy, so when its come to corner, you have to have skill. Ha, but I don't have any. So does anyone know any track in NYC? Brooklyn would be better too.
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Old 03-31-2002, 05:35 PM   #1457
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The rear hub modification is when you cut down the top of the rear hubs so the top is flat, drill a hole and mount a ballstud vertically. The hub without the stud should be 30mm tall. This allows you to run a longer link, and like the front it allows you to run the links parallel, but what most people do is use the outer hole on the tower so you are essentially keeping the link the same length and moving it out. I think what this does is reduces the rolling moment, but I'm not totally sure. You should ask mo

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Old 03-31-2002, 06:39 PM   #1458
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Josh,
Have you done a back to back test of the rear camber link (our current set up) in the outer and inner positions at the same angle with no other changes to see if making it longer increases rear traction like it did before?

I'm also curious to see what it does in the front too. I'll be running carpet next weekend with both of my Specials- one set up for stock rubber and one mod foam on a tight ozite track. I'll have all night to test so I'm making a note now to try the inboard camber links in different positions. I'll have access to transponders and an LCS so I should be able to see lap time differences.

Maybe Mo or Alex has done this same test...
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Old 03-31-2002, 08:02 PM   #1459
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No, I haven't tried that yet...Might be something to try next time. If you were to do that on the front, you would need a longer link, I would think.

Did try high roll center in the rear again, but I decided I didn't like it. Was spening more time playing with the tamiya trying to set it up.

Car was great in stock, I won that, but in mod it was really twitchy and literally felt like it was a bunch of parts fubared together. Need to try some new things...I did try using the lower hole on the castor blocks with the 5s, but I can't see how mo and tosolini can do that with 60.3mm shocks! I had mine all the way out to 62mm and I was still too low, so I put it back to 3s and upper, being lazy and not wanting to put the long shock ends on.

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Old 03-31-2002, 08:03 PM   #1460
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Oh, I also heard that at the Nats tosolini was using a "mid" roll center front and rear. Apparently he made some parts that allow him to use a hole on the inside that is in between the other two. Supposidly, he has sent it away to Japan to be molded.

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Old 03-31-2002, 11:09 PM   #1461
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MisFit I am in my late teens 17.....Yea its definately a fun place to race at. Billy is a class act and you will see what I am talking about when u move up here.

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Old 03-31-2002, 11:47 PM   #1462
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Default diff. screw problem....

hi everyone.... im still a newbie in this hobby and i run a yokomo special with stock motor geared 78t spur and 25t pinion...my problem is.... the rear diff. screw broke twice already and i dont know what causes this.

any input, sugestion are verry much apreciated. thanks in advance
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Old 04-01-2002, 02:17 AM   #1463
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okidoki,

try the neutral position / tighness, it will help you a lot. never broke any screws way back with my yoke R.
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Old 04-01-2002, 03:36 PM   #1464
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okidoki,

I feel your pain!! I had the same problem when I first started running the Yok! First make sure that the diff screw isn't too tight (its very easy to get it too tight)!! Also grab some Associated black grease and grease the HECK out of the top of the screw head! Thats the only things that I did and I haven't had a problem since! Hope that helps!
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Old 04-01-2002, 07:00 PM   #1465
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I have broken about 10 diff screws. The main thing is to not run the diff too tight, run it as loose as you can.

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Old 04-01-2002, 07:57 PM   #1466
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I've never broken a diff screw and there's a couple of reasons why...

1. I don't tighten the screw all the way up, then back it off. I reassemble the diff and tighten accordingly, just to the point of slippage. I then test it in the car and adjust if necessary.
2. Grease the underside of the diff screw head.
3. Running foam tyres on asphalt doesn't stress the screw as much as running treated tyres on carpet.
4. Periodic replacement of the diff screw and spring.
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Old 04-01-2002, 08:28 PM   #1467
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Smile thanks a lot

speedo, simon, allpimp, and maski.....

thanks for the sugestions....ill see to it that the diff screw is well lubricated and not tighten to much


maski,
are you going to race this sat. in IVO speedway pearl plaza? i might give it a try though its going to be my first time to play and race there
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Old 04-01-2002, 08:40 PM   #1468
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Smile question about gearing

im using mvp stock motor with my yokomo special and its 78t spur and 25t pinion.....this weekend im going to race in a flowing trax, should i change my gearing? thanks again
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Old 04-01-2002, 09:28 PM   #1469
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okidoki, if you are going to be on a wide open track, you may want to go up to a pinion with around 28 teeth.

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Old 04-01-2002, 09:42 PM   #1470
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If you're running an MVP and using the #766 Reedy brush, try cutting them like this.(Check attachment)
It makes a difference.
Attached Images
File Type: gif mvpcut.gif (30.6 KB, 97 views)
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