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Old 03-18-2002, 11:38 AM   #1381
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Default bigdog. . .

bigdog,

would you mind if you can explain0 each part that are used in set-up like the holes, camber links, etc. i have no idea what the effects are if i chnage some on the original configuration. also pls include the swaybars and the high/low roll center!

also, do you place spacers inside the shock-body to reduce its length other than changing its shocks ends?
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Old 03-18-2002, 05:30 PM   #1382
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Ralf, are you on foams? If so, don't try that setup.

maski, I have explained some of that before, but it takes so long to do so. If you really want to understand it, I suggest you look at http://gallery.uunet.be/heremanss/

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Old 03-18-2002, 05:31 PM   #1383
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And shock lengths, 59.5 front and 60 rear. I think I may lengthen each end by about 1mm next time though, because I don't like the ammount of pre-load I am having to use to get ride hieght, having the shocks "sprung" as BigDog put it, though the car isn't overly responsive.
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Old 03-18-2002, 08:53 PM   #1384
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thanks for the link speedo!

can anybody clarify a preload is? is that the spacer placed on the shock body (not the threaded) or the spacer placed inside the shocks?
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Old 03-18-2002, 09:32 PM   #1385
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Default Re: bigdog. . .

Quote:
Originally posted by maski
bigdog,

would you mind if you can explain0 each part that are used in set-up like the holes, camber links, etc. i have no idea what the effects are if i chnage some on the original configuration. also pls include the swaybars and the high/low roll center!

also, do you place spacers inside the shock-body to reduce its length other than changing its shocks ends?
Masaki, I left both of my cars at work so I can't give you every detail until tomorrow, but for now...

*both inside hinge pins (front and rear) on the lower arms are in the top holes
*all shocks have the short shock ends with NO limiters inside
*front swaybar is silver on asphalt and gold on carpet
*rear swaybar- none
*ride height- 5 (carpet or 6 (bumpy asphalt)
*shock lengths should be compensated when raising or lowering ride height
*shock positions are always in the outside hole top and bottom
*camber links front- middle outside rear- top outside

Speedo- you might consider trying this one- it's awesome. I actually ran Yok #2 shock pistons for a while and liked them better than the #3s in Orlando... everything else was the same

I'll check to see if I left anything off tomorrow from work.
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Old 03-18-2002, 09:41 PM   #1386
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What oil are you running?
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Old 03-19-2002, 02:22 AM   #1387
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BigDogRacing: I did a nearly 100% copy of Tosolinis setup so the damper lengths were the same. But I think tosolinis setup is best suited for tight and high grip tracks. But I don't understand how you can drive with those soft blue springs at the rear. When I put on greens at the rear the car was much more stable.

The short damper lengths that I mentioned was for masami's standard set up which I'm using now.
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Old 03-19-2002, 11:25 AM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
What oil are you running?
30/20 white/blue for asphalt

40/30 blue/yellow for carpet
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Old 03-19-2002, 07:02 PM   #1389
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I've just re-done the front of my car, using the three degree blocks.

I have now noticed the tweaking of the chassis as Josh has alluded to previously, I can't run my shocks the same lengths as they have to be adjusted independantly.
It's a bit of a pain but if I can set it up on the bench and it runs OK, then it'll have to do.
It's also interesting to set the car up as low as it is. My home track is almost perfectly flat, which is fortunate. I hate to think what'll happen when I hit something with more than a slight ripple in it...
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Old 03-19-2002, 07:25 PM   #1390
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Do you get the same droop when you set the shock length differently though?
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Old 03-19-2002, 09:38 PM   #1391
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Well, no.
Each shocks length is adjusted so both wheels leave a flat surface at the same time. The same when lowering the car back onto the surface.
They are all different lengths unfortunately, if each pair was the same, the tweaked chassis would be all over the place.

Basically one shock is set to, say 60mm. I check how far out the other one is while lifting the car. I then adjust that shock length to get them even. It does muck up the preload I think.
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Old 03-20-2002, 06:08 AM   #1392
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Default Tweaked Chassis

I wonder if the chassis tweak problem has been fixed in a revised mold??? I bought my Special as soon as they were available. Before I built the kit, I placed the chassis on a perfectly flat surface and the battery side front (if I remember correctly), was approx. 1mm in the air.

I don't know how much of an affect this has had on the way the car handles, but the tweak is there. My car still run better than any of the previous Yokomos I've owned.

So, anyone here bought a Special recently? If so, is your chassis tweaked?
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Old 03-20-2002, 07:54 AM   #1393
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Geppetto, that was the same with me. When I made my top deck though, it has flattened it out.

Simon, did you try changing the pre-load on the shocks to set the tweak correctly? That usually works for me, I check it for tweak every two runs or so.
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Old 03-20-2002, 12:47 PM   #1394
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Geppeto,

I bought my Yok Sp about 6 mths ago and it is not tweaked. The chassis was perfectly flat and I run my shocks the same length with the same amount of preload.

Maybe I'm just lucky but this is the first car I have had that is perfectly neutral. Could be my electrics and transponder allow for a tweak free chassis also.

I don't generaly check tweak until after I rebuild the car between race meetings so I can not say if it tweaks during racing. Maybe I should check next time.

Yorkie.
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Old 03-20-2002, 06:56 PM   #1395
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What I do to the car works, as far as getting it to handle OK. I do run a fair amount of droop which minimises the tweaks.

After looking at it previously, I did notice the front battery side of the chassis was tweaked a little higher, as many of you have found.
I may look at buying another chassis soon, just to see if the current production ones are twisted at all.
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