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Old 03-10-2002, 10:21 PM   #1321
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speedo>

what should i look b4 buying a used yoke sp? any tips there?

do u guys recommend running a inch-up wheel on the yoke?
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Old 03-11-2002, 08:41 AM   #1322
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Check the belts, and the center one-way and pulley to make sure it isn't too worn. Then check all the bearings, and as long as there isn't too much slop (which can be shimmed up anyway) it should be OK.

I'm not sure, but I wonder if on ashfault foams aren't as fast as rubber, whereas on carpet it is the opposite? I imagine you would burn up foams pretty fast on ashfault.

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Old 03-11-2002, 09:34 AM   #1323
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Quote:
Originally posted by Simon K
Here's my poor painting skills to the fore...look at all the pretty stickers...
Heh, my saying is, if you can't paint just use stickers to cover it up
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Old 03-11-2002, 05:40 PM   #1324
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has anyone here used universals instead of the dogbone or cvd?
how is it compared to the CVD?

can i use inch-up rims with the yoke? i mean better handling when using one
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Old 03-11-2002, 06:20 PM   #1325
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The dog bone is just the piece that slots into the diff outdrive and connects it to the axel, it is not a specific type. You find it on uni's and CVD's.

The MR-4 pro on up comes with lightweight blue universals. The theory is that when you turn with these, it causes the wheel to shake. So technically a CVD is better. I don't think the difference is all that noticable, I have MIP shiny CVD's in the front because they are harder. Also have a set for the rear but don't use them because the uni's are lighter and the rear wheels don't turn.

Hope this helps,
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Old 03-12-2002, 05:24 AM   #1326
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thanks speedo!

my problem with the blue cvd on the special is that they wear fast. that's why my freind who has one always have a broken cvd!
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Old 03-12-2002, 06:40 AM   #1327
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Maski. I have just replaced my CVDs with new Titanium ones. They come complete with output shafts and, whilst being stronger than the factory units, actually weigh 2 grams each less, which is quite a saving in rotating weight.

I have also replaced the layshaft with a titanium one of less than half the weight, and will eventually replace the diff outdrives too. I have also gone for titanium screws all round.

I am presently in the process of making up an MR4 JB special. Main difference is the use of 3mm carbon fibre for the chassis plate, which is longer than the standard chassis, different angles for all sorts of things, different diffs front and rear, and some experimentation with motors.

The reason i have built another car is simply that my MR4 Special is so good at present that I would not like to alter things on it. Instead I have built a completely new car and will use this as a test bed to try various things.....just for fun.

Kentech. I liked your honest....but oh so diplomatic answer. It's just what I thought it would be, under the circumstances. Please give my regards to Syd, Jamie and Karl at Mirage.

Darkside has started up a very good Formula 1 thread in Chat Lounge, to which I subscribe regularly.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-12-2002, 06:49 AM   #1328
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John Bull,

Please let me know where you got those titanium parts. I would like to get the CVD's especially, as I have broken/bent 2 of the aluminum bones already.
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Old 03-12-2002, 07:57 AM   #1329
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Ras, www.titaniumracing.com


johnbull, are you saying the CVD's are two grams lighter than the MIP aluminum CVDs, or the yok aluminum uni's?

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Old 03-12-2002, 08:38 AM   #1330
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Speedo: I've ordered the hollow top shaft from Speedtech R/C. I expect to have it tomorrow. Our season is just about to get started, so it may be a week or so before I can give any feed back.

pilot: Last season when I ran my Special, I experienced the same wheel jitter that you describe. As it turns out, the standard blue aluminum universals wear very easily! The slop that develops then contributes to that problem. The universals are rebuildable, however, I think that in the long run purchasing a set of hardend units would be cheaper.

maski: I don' t think that you can use the Yokomo InchUp wheels with any of the MR-4 series of cars. If I remember correctly, there is a problem with rubbing because the offset is different. It's really to bad, since the InchUp wheels are really nice looking and in expensive. I used to run them on my YR4-M2.
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Old 03-12-2002, 09:47 AM   #1331
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
maski: I don' t think that you can use the Yokomo InchUp wheels with any of the MR-4 series of cars. If I remember correctly, there is a problem with rubbing because the offset is different. It's really to bad, since the InchUp wheels are really nice looking and in expensive. I used to run them on my YR4-M2.
You can use the OFNA lexan wheels. They don't say they are inch up on the package, but measure them- they are definately larger than the Yok 512s and they have a 0 offset. I've used them a couple of times on my Special. They're pretty tough too, and just a hair heavier than Yok ABS wheels.

Has anyone tried the new Orion/JB dish wheels? They're kinda translucent white but they feel really soft like the old nylon wheels. They pretty light though- you don't need a scale to feel how much lighter they are...
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Old 03-12-2002, 01:09 PM   #1332
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BigDogRacing: Good point! I actually use the Ofna (Split Spoke, 8 for $8) and I believe, as you said, that they are taller than the Yokomo standard wheel. I like the look of them, but I find that they sometimes fracture depending on the impact. The Yokomo InchUp wheel seemed to absorb a hard impact better. I don't really care for the any of the dish type wheels, though.
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Old 03-12-2002, 06:36 PM   #1333
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I thought inch up simply means the wheel is stiffer.? Don't like them because they crack...

Don't buy the hardened uni's from yokomo, you would be much better off to get the MIP CVDs...Either in steel (hard) or aluminum. Plus they are cheaper.
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Old 03-12-2002, 07:58 PM   #1334
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does yokomo sell front diffs and if so, how much are they?
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Old 03-12-2002, 10:35 PM   #1335
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maski: I've just got a set of the yokomo inch up rims for my special. Geppetto is right about the offset being different, but if you have access to a dremel, you can make them fit! Thats what I had to do to mine, and they work fine!
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