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Old 02-26-2002, 04:47 PM   #1276
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The wheel bearings are 6 by 10 by 3mm.

Castor- Darkseid is right, that is the theory, but it doesn't really work that way. Having tried both, I feel that basically the 3 degree blocks give the car a more agressive feel and more steering all round, while the 7 degree blocks smooth the car out.

What castor is doing is raising the front of the car when you turn the wheel. The less castor, the less the front is raised so more weight can be transfered onto the front when slowing down, hence more steering.
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Old 02-26-2002, 04:55 PM   #1277
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On my M2 USA and my Type J I used 0 castor and absolutely loved the way I could throw the car around... U think that with 0 castor the car would drive the similar?



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Last edited by RAP66; 02-26-2002 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 02-26-2002, 05:37 PM   #1278
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Speedo: well that theory is what all the major manufacturers place in their set up guides and seem to go by. So I find it kind of hard to believe that what they believe really doesn't work???

But, hey, what do they know?
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Old 02-26-2002, 05:53 PM   #1279
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Used to run the blue alloy front gearbox(less castor) on my old M2 and it definately sharpened things up a bit, steering wise.

I think the three degree blocks will be better if you don't quite have enough steering normally. They should add just that little bit extra.
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Old 02-26-2002, 06:41 PM   #1280
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They add quite a bit. They actually give the car a total of 5 degrees castor, with the 2 degrees kickup.

Darkseid, what does Mo know? LOL, that's what he told me, and testing it has proved it true.

They don't make 0 degree blocks for the MR-4, but they do make the 3's, and they will make it much more agressive.

Right now my car is having problems setup wise, I have made the camber link mods, and it still needs a lot of work...

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Old 02-26-2002, 06:59 PM   #1281
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Thanks for the information. But I didnt see anyone say what degree castor blocks come stock? I just got some 3 degree blocks to try but they only have one hole drilled for the lower mount, and it is the upper hole, which I have never used before, should it have two holes?
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Old 02-26-2002, 08:30 PM   #1282
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The car comes stock with 5 degree blocks, plus the 2 degrees of kickup, and you get a total of 7. Using the 3 blocks reduces it to 5. Yep, they only have the upper hole. This raises the roll center. You may want to make your shocks shorter, but I would leave them the same at first, the increased steering from more droop may balance the decreased steering from the higher roll center.

Good luck,
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Old 02-26-2002, 08:50 PM   #1283
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Thanks Speedo.... boy that seems kinda dumb to make a caster block to let you remove caster but make you run a higher roll center at the same time. Kinda defeats the age old tunning rule of "only change one thing at a time". It would have been nice to give us the option of both holes so we could compare just the caster change.
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Old 02-27-2002, 12:27 PM   #1284
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when talking about casterblocks. Anyone tested the 1mm trailing steeringblocks?
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Old 02-27-2002, 05:34 PM   #1285
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Yeah, I agree, I guess they just got lazy and didn't drill a lower hole. That's OK for me, I always use the upper hole, but they should have made a lower one.

Nope, haven't gotten those yet...I'm thinking I could make some pretty easily.

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Old 03-02-2002, 03:50 PM   #1286
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Speedo
What change can I expect from using the upper hole in the caster block? I run carpet with rubber and both my Mission and my Losi work better with low roll center set ups so I am not sure about raising the roll center but I would like to try less caster.
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Old 03-03-2002, 11:00 AM   #1287
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Using a higher roll center in the front will make the car less aggressive, which is a good thing with the front one-way. If you had the 3 degree blocks with the lower hole and a front one-way, for me the car would be too aggressive. But if you have the front diff, I used the lower hole most of the time, but the upper hole may be better with the 3 degree blocks.

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Old 03-03-2002, 08:45 PM   #1288
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Does anyone know the part number for the servo saver piece you need to turn your servo sideways like Masami and Baker used to run? Just out fo curiousity, what chassis did it come off of?
Thanks in advance....
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Old 03-04-2002, 12:39 AM   #1289
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When I did it on mine, I used the spare servo saver that come with the Special on the parts tree. I had to modify it by cutting off the second hole, so it could clear the battery strap post. I also had to buy a longer turnbuckle for between the servo and servo saver.
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Old 03-04-2002, 05:33 AM   #1290
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BigDogRacing: If you started with a brand new kit (MR-4TC, Pro, Worlds or Special) you should already have the part. As rccarracer said, the needed part is standard with the kit.
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