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Old 02-07-2002, 10:26 AM   #1171
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I have a question... Does anyone know the part number for the front bulkhead? I used the part number in the manual, and when the bulkhead came in, it wasn't correct. It had only one hole for the hinge pin, and has about 15 degrees of kickup. Anyone know anything about this?
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Old 02-07-2002, 05:03 PM   #1172
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Well, Many of the bulkheads now only have one hole, but 15 degrees of kickup, it must be defective.

johnbull, by rose joints do you mean the shock ends? I have popped those off, don't ask.

By triangulating it, do you mean that the inner ballend forkes off in two directions, one onto the top of the top deck and the other onto the tower, and you must have a tie rod that fits it?

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Old 02-07-2002, 06:22 PM   #1173
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I had a look at the new 3 deg front hub carriers and they are down to just one hole for the hinge pin now.
Thing that worries me is that the hole thats left is not the one I use(Lower), which means going to the shorter shock/upper hole on hub carrier and bulkhead setup which I've never used.

Josh,
My point about using the Losi ballend was that the shank is longer, whereas if you used a Yokomo one, the turnbuckle has a lot less meat to thread into.
I use Losi ballends on the back of my car, they snap onto the extra long ballstud that the YR4 anti roll bars came with(Which is how I mount the upper arm to the rear bulkhead), I think it's the same one that is used on the front of Chris T's car.
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Old 02-07-2002, 07:21 PM   #1174
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Cosmo: Sounds like you got the front bulkhead for the MX-4/MR-4 Rally. The TC fr. bulkhead is part #ZS-300FT for the standard version, and #ZS-300FTG for the graphite one.
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Old 02-07-2002, 07:42 PM   #1175
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Oh yeah, I see what you mean. Running a long link with the yokomo ones would leave you with much less of the ball cup to thread into. Because I need to have my long servo tie rod so long, I put Losi ballcups on it a long time ago. Had to use losi studs too, but it works nicely and the Losi ones seem to endure popping off an back on much better than the yoke ones.

Carpet- I notice that Tosolini is running very thin oil with #3 pistons, apparently. Sounds like yoke 350wt front and yoke 250wt rear. I have put 40wt with #3's in and never changed it, but I might try trying to get the car a little more responsive. Would it be better to keep the 40wt and put #2 pistons in, or to keep the #3 pistons and put lighter oil in?

Thanks,
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Old 02-08-2002, 02:05 AM   #1176
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Darkside. I didn't know of Tamiya's new F1 release. I'll check it out.

To answer your question - I do write on other threads - TC3 thread quite a bit since son Josh runs one, HPI Pro 3 thread to ribb the poor beggers that buy Pro 3s then spend the same again to make them work, and various others, not least of all our Malta Racers thread in which you will find all our race reports - and plenty more ribbing!I also send race reports to rczone.net.

I see Ferrari have taken a break from their crash test programme to launch their new car. Interesting. Judging by testing results we could end up with 4 Ferrari engined cars in the top 4, with Sauber going so well! The new Williams doesn't seem up to the business yet. Pity.

Speedo, you are right about the top triangulation. That's just how I do it. I have some photos of the car but don't know how to scan and put into rctech. When someone that does calls at my place I'll get them to do it. I'll have to have a friendly chat with MR4Malta. I see he has just posted a pic of his Pro3, though he has a digital camera.

Are any of you following the Snowbirds race report. Looks interesting. Can Tossolini do it again?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-08-2002, 03:03 AM   #1177
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Hey I'm very happy with my special, but one thing is annoying me. The side that holds the batteries on the car seems to be 1mm higher to the electronics side of the car. Anyone had this occur, and how do I fix this?
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Old 02-08-2002, 01:24 PM   #1178
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
, HPI Pro 3 thread to ribb the poor beggers that buy Pro 3s then spend the same again to make them work
..ehh... ooook!!??!!
Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
, Speedo, you are right about the top triangulation. That's just how I do it. I have some photos of the car but don't know how to scan and put into rctech. When someone that does calls at my place I'll get them to do it. I'll have to have a friendly chat with MR4Malta. I see he has just posted a pic of his Pro3, though he has a digital camera.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
i can get the digi cam tomorrow to the track!
write back here or give me a call or somthing...
ill be at the track anyways!
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Old 02-08-2002, 02:04 PM   #1179
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Johnbull: I didn't realize you posted in so many places. I knew about here and the Malta thread...

.....but you really should stop picking on those Pro3 owners. They didn't know any better. Many of them assumed since HPI made two previous successes in TC, that the Pro3 was a sure thing.

Man, Ferrari crashes two cars in one day, and everyone has jokes! Just remember those weren't the new cars they crashed. We wont know till this weekend what the new car can do.

In the mean time.....leave those poor fools on the Pro3 thread alone!
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Old 02-08-2002, 02:35 PM   #1180
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MO just emailed me his setup, he said it is almost identical to what tosolini was running at the Novak race, and I imagine close to what he is running at the snowbirds. All i can say is wow, it is way out there, but it must work.

Firstly the front link is mounted on top of the casor block, and using the upper-outer hole on tower for the link. Using standard 5 blocks and lower hole on castor block, upper hole on bulkhead! #3 pistons, 25wt, silver bar.

Rear link is mounted vertically on the toe block, upper, farthest outer hole on tower and upper hole in bulkhead for arm mounting. 20wt oil, #3 pistons, no bar. Both one-ways.

I don't have all the materials to try this yet, but I will be ordering them this weekend

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Old 02-08-2002, 02:52 PM   #1181
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Sorry, sounds like they are running foams at the snowbirds, in which case Tosolini won't be using the same setup.

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Old 02-08-2002, 04:28 PM   #1182
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Come on guys, anyone got any ideas?
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Old 02-08-2002, 05:08 PM   #1183
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Change the pre-load on the shocks, though that is probably not your problem. The special chassis' come tweaked, and there is not much you can do about it. Give the car a solid wrenching in the opposite direction and it will sort things out for a while, but if you hit things it will return to it's original position.

If you have the time, another thing you can do is coutersink the top deck. Take the car to a drill press and flatten out the chassis, and having only one screw on the top deck removed at a time, coutersink the holes. You will also need to buy some coutersunk screws to fit. Try www.fastener-express.com Countersinking the holes while the chassis is flat will keep the chassis flat and stop the car from tweaking when you hit things.

I am going to be countersinking the holes on the carbon fiber top deck I am making, as well as on the standard top deck.

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Old 02-08-2002, 06:28 PM   #1184
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Thanks, yeah I remember hearing that on this thread a while a ago. Is there a reason for the tweak, or is it just a flaw in the chassis?
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Old 02-08-2002, 06:31 PM   #1185
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Also does the tweak affect the cars handling at all or is it just something you have to live with. It doesn't seem to affect it's winning potential at the top level, so I'm guessing it will be fine how it is.
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