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Old 02-04-2002, 09:01 AM   #1156
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Another one :

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Old 02-04-2002, 09:02 AM   #1157
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Pit Table :

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Old 02-04-2002, 02:17 PM   #1158
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Have been racing a Yok for a couple of weeks now and I have noticed that the car gets out of tweak very easily. I have 4 scales that I monitor the weights on the corners and have noticed that the car can become way out tweak after running. Does anybody have any solutions to the problem or has anyone else experienced the same senario.
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Old 02-04-2002, 03:12 PM   #1159
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Regarding Tosolini's front-camber-link modification:

I just put this same mod on my Special today. All you need is part #YOKZR007F, which contains the kingpins with ball studs that fit directly in place of the regular kingpins.

Then take a dremel tool and cut off the normal mounting area for the camber link. That's all there is to it.

You may need longer turnbuckles as well, depending on what you were already running. Not sure if I had the stock ones on there or not, but mine were long enough. The overall length is increased by about .25" (or about 8.5mm).
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Old 02-04-2002, 04:43 PM   #1160
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What does it do to affect performance?
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Old 02-04-2002, 07:14 PM   #1161
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Use a Losi ballend on the outer part of the front upper link, this will allow you to use the original turnbuckle but the Losi ends are just that little bit longer. Be interested to hear if it's worth trying.

Johnbull,
We run foams and if you run a compound thats too soft, you can be over the limit before the race, well under it afterwards. Not cool.

Daniz,
You have too much money

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Old 02-04-2002, 07:42 PM   #1162
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Simon, the link will still be the same length though because you are using the same mounting locations and you have to have it the same length to keep your camber setting.
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Old 02-04-2002, 09:24 PM   #1163
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There are a couple of different things to look at when you're looking at camber link size.

First, look at the front of the car only: a longer camber link will allow the body to roll more while turning, which should give more grip in the corners, or specifically, through the middle of a corner. On most tracks, this is a desirable thing, with the possible exception of super-high-bite (treated) asphault or pavement.

Second, look at the front of the car as opposed to the rear. In most MR4TC setups, the front and rear links are roughly the same length, with the front being a tad longer. Increasing the length of the front link relative to the rear link also serves to increase steering -- in other words, you could also shorten the rear link to achieve something similar. But because of the body roll benefits, the optimal setting on a lot of TCs seems to be to have the links as long as possible, while still allowing the front to be a bit longer than the rear.

Obviously your racing surface always comes into play. Mess around with it until you can get the rear end to break loose, and then back off a bit, and presto: you've found your optimal setting, which should be pushing the car right to its limit without going overboard.
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Old 02-04-2002, 09:26 PM   #1164
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Speedo/Simon: I think what Simon was trying to say was that instead of buying a longer turnbuckle to make the longer link work, try using a longer plastic ballend (since the ends are cheaper than the Ti turnbuckles, no doubt).

In fact, this is exactly what Tosolini did on his car. Not sure if you can see it in the Tech photo, but his outer ball cup is about twice as long as normal.
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Old 02-04-2002, 09:47 PM   #1165
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Ah, OK I got it I'm fairly sure though that the losi ballcups are bigger and therefore don't fit the yokomo ball studs. Of course the solution to that is to use a Losi ball stud on the tower.

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Old 02-04-2002, 09:56 PM   #1166
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Yea, that's also true, since the Yokomo uses metric ballstuds whereas Losi uses American ones. I am sure that somebody makes a longer ballstud for metric sizes as well.

Simply getting a Losi (American) ballstud would not work in this case, since you need something that acts as both a ballstud and a kingpin, and only the Yokomo ones I mentioned earlier will fit the MR4TC.

Although you said on the tower, which would probably work... I think. Although the threads on the American studs (4-40) are actually a bit smaller than the 3mm threads that Yokomo uses. So you could do it, but you would need to anchor the stud from behind with a locknut.
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Old 02-05-2002, 01:37 AM   #1167
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Speedo, Futureal. Solution to ball joint size problem. Use a rose joint instead of a ball joint. With the rose joint you can simply use a 3mm screw of the appropriate length.

I have now removed all my ball joints, both on my MR4 Sp and on son Josh's TC3, and replaced them all with rose joints. For those that don't know, rose joints are what we have on Yoke shocks. There are numerous brands to choose from, or simply go for Yoke ones.

The reason for the change is that the ball joints just won't snap out, even with the heaviest of impacts. Just think back how many times you have retired from a race because a steering or suspension ball cup snaps open. These won't.

Futureal's explanation as to the effects of long or short arms is spot on. I have had mine on their longest possibility for ages, both front and rear, though I have gone about the front somewhat differently, using Trinity Pan Car front upper joints to form a triangle. The rearward part of the triangle mounts on top of the steering mechanism - just use longer screws. You can then also adjust the reactive caster to give less caster under breaking - more turn in, and more caster on acceleration - better straight line stability. There's normally enough play in the bottom king pin location to allow for a bit of caster variation.

If you look at the picture of our car in RC Car Action that carried the report of the 1998 On Road Worlds - can't remember the date, you'll see we had the same thing on the Schumacher my son raced then. The caption mistakenly called it a Schumacher prototype. Schumacher weren't amused because they don't like people improving on their own designs. You'll recognise the car by it's JOHN BULL RACING sticker on the top plate. It's at the top of the Worlds Report. Barry Baker did the same thing immediately after.

Hope it helps.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-07-2002, 01:39 AM   #1168
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Somebody - write something.

We're falling off the bottom of the list.
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Old 02-07-2002, 08:04 AM   #1169
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Johnbull,

It seems to me that this is probably the quietest thread of all the manufacturers right now.

Could it be that the car is so great to drive that everyone has found their perfect set up?

Or could it be that the Yokomos are that well put together that no one has any compliants about sloppy finish or substandard parts?

Or maybe it could be that the smart people buying the special can't ask what hop ups to get as they are all included as standard?

If only everything in life was as reliable as a Yokomo


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Old 02-07-2002, 09:51 AM   #1170
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Johnbull: Is this the only thread you write on? I thought for sure you would have already dropped by the Tamiya F201 thread to throw your two cents in about the new F1 car.

Well Ferrari finally launch their car. We'll see this weekend if it was worth the wait.
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