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Old 12-18-2001, 12:54 AM   #946
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Re suspension arms, the latest arms - front & rear - have the anti roll bar ball moulded in. hey are much stronger than the graphite arms. The new rear arms also have the advantage of allowing adjustment to the car's wheelbase. I don't know numbers off hand but I certainly recommend them. I have never managed to break one yet.

Re rear diffs. I have dremelled a hole 2cm x 1cm in the chassis just below the diff gear. This allows all the grit to get out as quickly as it gets in. To help the problem even further I have also removed the back section from the rear bulkhead, so that you can now see the diff gear and belt from the rear of the car. It seems to have done the trick.

We had a reasonable day's racing on Sunday, though I did what I tell everybody not to do.

I usually run the car in race trim for just a few laps before a meeting, then put the race battery in and have the car scrutineered. It turned out to be some 50 grams overweight, so I thought, no problem, simply remove some lead weights.

Now I have strategically placed my weights so that I have 2 x 10g bits bolted under the front bumper, plus 2 x 10 and 1 x 5 g bits taped in alongside the speedo - just ahead of the motor. It was easiest to simply remove the taped weights, which I did.

What I didn't do was run the car again before the race. Come the race the car was an oversteering pig - great fun but not conducive to quick lap times. Finished 5th.

In between finals I removed the front ballast and taped a 10g piece alongside the speedo. Weighted it again, now about 1515g.

Race 2 and the car was brilliant again. Still placed 5th - but that's another story related more to brain fade than the car's performance. In fact I had the second fastest lap time, which proves the car was good.

Son Josh had a 3rd and a 1st so all in all it was a pretty satisfying day for John Bull Racing.

Next meeting Sunday - Christmas Cup meeting.

Regards

Joe from sunny.....but cold....Malta.
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Old 12-18-2001, 04:41 PM   #947
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Graphite parts- yes, the are lighter and more rigid. I think this can help durability in some places, but not it others. The graphite arms, for example, are far more brittle than the standard ones, where-as since I switched to the graphite shock towers, I haven't broken any. I have the worlds front arms installed, the standard ones, not graphite, and have never broken them. As a matter of fact, I have never broken an arm on the car. if you don't hit things, they shouldn't break (I hit some things though ) You may want to make sure you are using the standard material front arms and not the graphite front arms. Your other option is the nylon arms, with a dremel you can fit a ballstud on the inside to mount your roll bar...All the pictures of team drivers cars I have seen have the graphite rear bulkheads...I use the graphite rear bulkheads.

Here is a pic
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Old 12-18-2001, 04:50 PM   #948
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Here is a more recent one. ( the black springs are actually orange)
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Old 12-19-2001, 01:14 AM   #949
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Speedo. Great pics. Great car. I presume this is your car.

May I make just one suggestion - 2 actually.

1. Speedo switch is a bit vulnerable where it is. We actually remove ours altogether.

2. I see you place your cells with the positive up front. This requires a longer red wire. I have always been told to keep the speedo wires as short as possible, giving preference to the positive. I have my positive at the back thus keeping the red wire as short as possible. I don't know how much gain or loss, but just a thought.

I also see that your transponder is mounted at the back. Do you have a regulation position for these. We have to mount ours on the body, immediately ahead of the front windscreen.

Great car anyway.

Regards

Joe from sunny....but bitterly cold....Malta.
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Old 12-19-2001, 05:14 PM   #950
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Yeah, that's my car. Can't wait for the 3 degree blocks, they should help immensly! You are probably right about the wire thing, but when I got the car, that is how my batteries were assembled, so I have always built them that way.

How do you remove the switch? I presusme you just cut it off a solder the wires together? I have had no problems with mounting it where it is, but thanks for the tip. I just makes it easier for me to turn it off after a race.

There isn't any regulation for transponder mouting here, so I made my own mount. It is just like the yokomo one. I found some very flexable material and just used an AE post. I had to file a bit of the chassis down too, so the transponder sits as low as possible.

It's rainy here too,
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Old 12-20-2001, 12:34 AM   #951
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Hi all,

I've had my Special for a few weeks now and I'm well impressed.

The only thing i have noticed though is wear on the diff outdrives. I'm running a front diff and both sets of outdrives are worn slightly. I race stock motors, mainly on wooden flooring.

Does anyone know of an alternative for the diff outdrives such as a Delrin based material or is it easier / cheaper just to buy new outdrives every few months?

I have applied black grease to the CVD bone knuckle and diff outdrive cup. I don't race outdoors so I can't see dirt mixing with the grease to increase wear. Maybe dust from the indoor track is mixing with the grease to cause the abrasion. Would I be better cleaning out the black grease?

Thanks for any advice.

Yorkie
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Old 12-20-2001, 01:05 AM   #952
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Speedo. Quite right. All you do is cut the wires and solder together, then cover up with a bit of shrink tube. It's safer this way.

Yorkie. I run my Yoke modified. The diff outdrives form a bit of an indent with wear with very little use, but it doesn't seem to get any worse. I have had my plastic diffs for 4 months. i replaced them before the start of our race season. We have had 12 race meetings, so if you add quite a few hours of practice to that you will agree that they are not really a problem.

Just don't let them worry you. Oh by the way, I don't bother with grease or anything, prefering to keep everything clean and dry.

Happy Christmas and a successful and prosperous new year to you all.

regards

Joe from sunny....but cold....Malta.
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Old 12-20-2001, 02:53 AM   #953
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Thanks Johnbull.

I'll keep an eye on the wear and I'll clean out all my grease. I'm not happy introducing dust and dirt to a greased outdrive.

Merry Chritmas to you too and to you all on this thread.

Yorkie
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Old 12-20-2001, 07:43 AM   #954
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IRS came out with those pin cushions for the TC3, I wonder if those would work your situation. Has anybody tried that?
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Old 12-20-2001, 08:41 AM   #955
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yeah, they would probably work. I have noticed the same thing, they cause a small indent initially, but after that they are fine. I have had mine since I got the car, racing stock on carpet, and have had no troubles with them. They are fairly cheap, so you can replace them once in a while...I think there are some aluminum/steel ones too. One guy here has them, I think.

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Old 12-20-2001, 10:26 AM   #956
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

When I made up my first 1 way front diff I used alloy diff output shafts which i machined myself. I used the Corally pin cushions but they are so fiddly.

They will not fit straight onto the Yoke diff halves as the slots on the Yoke are narrower.

But I wouldn't let a bit of wear worry you. In any case a set of diff halves is cheap. Well worth changing once every 6 months.

Regards.

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 12-22-2001, 05:51 AM   #957
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Hello!

Just thought I would wish all of my friends here on the MR4TC thread a Merry Christmas.

I have not been online at all the last few weeks since I have moved to England temporarily. The reason I'm here is that I work at HPI Europe so i won't be driving the Yokomo in the near future...but I will still check this topic as often as I can once I get my own pc. Obviously there won't be any updates to the Yokomo Finland page in the near future.

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Old 12-22-2001, 09:06 AM   #958
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Hi Kentech.

Does this mean you are going from the World Champion to the 80% car, as somebody in the HPI thread called it.

I hope not for your sake.

If you are where I think you are, that's at HPI Europe in UK, then you will probably meet Syd Evans, who works at Mirage - in the same building, Jamie Booth, Karl Marsden, etc. Please give them all my regards. I don't like the cars they sell, but I like the guys themselves. It's not their fault they drive HPIs.

And do me a favour. I owe Syd a pint - have done for years. Would you buy him one on my behalf.

Please wish them all Happy Christmas from me and Josh, and a Happy Christmas to you too.

Regards

Joe from windy, cold and rainy Malta.
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Old 12-22-2001, 09:38 AM   #959
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kentech,
well done...its really cool getting a job in the r/c buisness..!!
trust me you will not be dissapointed with the hpi... i did the switch from the yok sp to the pro3...and i loved it......my race results improved too....! so thats proving the pro3 is a good car...!
good luck anyway! ... its not what people think ....its how the car performs for you!
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Old 12-22-2001, 10:40 AM   #960
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Kentech - Your web site has been a very good source of information for Yokomo MR4 owners. I want to thank you for all that you have done. I am not an active poster on this site, but I do view this thread on a daily basis. Most Yokomo owners go to this site or yours or Mo's for up to date information. Yokomo USA has abandoned its customers. It is too bad, many have made the switch to the new Losi sedan.
HPI is very fortunate to get a person such as yourself. For you are a very good spokesperson for the products you support. I wish you well. The improved version of the Pro3 looks good.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!
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