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Old 11-29-2001, 10:23 AM   #886
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SimonK: Sorry, I know of no sites with good pics from the Japan nats. Masami won both classes at the offroad nats...results should be up at rcZone really soon.
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Old 11-29-2001, 06:21 PM   #887
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Thanks for that
I hated being left in the lurch-only knowing Qualifying positions.

Last edited by Simon K; 11-29-2001 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 11-29-2001, 08:43 PM   #888
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Mouting the rear link on the bulkhead give more rear traction becuase it effectively makes the link longer, therefore gives more roll, hence more traction
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Old 11-30-2001, 05:48 PM   #889
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Has anyone tried the Yokomo 'Andy's' Honda Accord.
Is it designed to give more steering than the Stratus?

Thanks

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Old 12-02-2001, 08:34 AM   #890
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i have mr4tc,the problem ,rear belt no tension,and the rear belt slip ,i many time change this belt, the puley damage,because belt slip.
you have a trick,solution,or make it tensioner in the rear belt ???
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Old 12-02-2001, 08:45 AM   #891
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Quote:
Originally posted by allen
i have mr4tc,the problem ,rear belt no tension,and the rear belt slip ,i many time change this belt, the puley damage,because belt slip.
you have a trick,solution,or make it tensioner in the rear belt ???
Allen : just don't use the low-friction belt (SP kit standard). very short life-time (not durable), harmful to alum pulley.... BTW have you already received your rear belt from Aswin??
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Old 12-02-2001, 09:13 AM   #892
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thank's daniz .
who are you man? you my friend, send me my friend gotcha...
i'm waiting pete.......,i just try guess you ,harr.....or.....
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Old 12-02-2001, 09:23 AM   #893
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hello kentech sportsman from finland,
what the good combinasion mr4tc spurgear X pinion
i used trinity d4 9X3 ?
wright now i used 78 X 22.
and how the good timing / degree used adjusting this motor
ooo ye the track shorty ...
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Old 12-02-2001, 04:21 PM   #894
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is there a way for me to fix my blue driveshafts on my yoke. they broke where the yoke and shaft meet
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Old 12-02-2001, 04:35 PM   #895
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has anyone broken a diff screw on their mr4tc before? mine broke off near the allen head. luckily, i had a spare screw. what could be the problem? i dont think the diff is too tight because it runs fine without slipping and im just running stock motors. i adjusted the diff according to the manual (back of 1/8 turn after tightening.) also, a couple of racers broke theirs about a couple of weeks ago. could using a stainless steel screw help strengthen that part? thanks for any info! sorry if this question was already asked, but i havent had time to read the whole thread.

also, will the TC3 shock pistons (white color) fit the mr4tc's threaded shocks? i got my mr4 from a trade and i dont have the yokomo shock pistons. thanks again for any info!

Last edited by marvi; 12-02-2001 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 12-02-2001, 07:08 PM   #896
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Marvi,
Don't tighten the diff screw all the way up. I run mine fairly loose, just to the point where they don't slip. Don't go any tighter than that. Put some black grease under the head of the screw.
Associated Pistons fit the shocks, I use a #3 in mine.

Was ist Los?,
You could buy the parts seperately, In New Zealand it is cheaper to just buy a complete new pair of Yokomo CVDs. Check out the prices at your LHS.
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Old 12-02-2001, 09:04 PM   #897
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marvi-I broke one just today...Front wheel drive! Yeaaah! Luckily mo had one though, apparently the screw gets hot and can shear off. He said to make sure you put a lot of black grease under the thrust bearing on the screw head to help keep it cool.

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Old 12-03-2001, 06:26 AM   #898
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I am fitting a front diff to my SP and I was wondering which way the smooth side of the diff pulley should be facing.

In the manual it says that for the rear diff the flat side of the pulley should be facing the right (towards spur gear). OK, no problem.

For the front one-way it says that the flat side of the pulley should face to the left. Now, does the front diff need to be the same as this or the same orientation as the rear diff?

Or does it not matter as long as the belt sits right in the middle?

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Old 12-03-2001, 04:34 PM   #899
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I don't remember which way it is, but I know the pulley is offset, which is why it has to be like that. I just guess, and if I'm wonrg, swap it around
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Old 12-03-2001, 06:22 PM   #900
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Good news guys- The tool we had machined to replace the oneway bearings in the front oneway WORKS !!! I have found the bearings, and so far the best price I have found is about $9 each. So on the yok, you can replace both bearings for $18 plus whatever I charge to do it, and the shipping, which will be minimal since it's so light. I think you could safely use a small padded envelope since it's not very fragile (unless it's in my Yok...lol) When I actually get the new bearings will depend on how fast I get responses because I can't afford to buy a bunch right off the bat. You can use my email below or go to my website and get my phone number. The link is below. I'll get some 4x8 and 5x8 bearings just in case someone has a bad one. The 4x8 bearings are on the inside of the oneway bearings in the housing. Mine were fine, but better to be prepared than not.

You could also PM me

Last edited by BigDogRacing; 12-03-2001 at 09:50 PM.
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