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Old 08-21-2001, 01:17 PM   #76
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I think you would only need 2 motors. The comms will wear out twice as fast, and are twice as expensive. I run 28's, in stock, they work great. They work well in mod too, but if you need a little more grip go for 24's. The 24's wear out faster though.
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Old 08-21-2001, 01:22 PM   #77
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For Pit tires I've got 20's, 25's and 30's with different insert choices. For Sorex's, I've got 20's 24's and 28's mostly with HPI green inserts, but 1 set of the 20's has red inserts.
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Old 08-21-2001, 01:37 PM   #78
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so it looks like youre ready to go in mod....just get two motors and youre set
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Old 08-21-2001, 01:45 PM   #79
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I think I will go with the Reedy TI... Maybe a 11 and 12 turn? Or, probably just get an 11, and see how that is before getting a 2nd motor.
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Old 08-21-2001, 04:50 PM   #80
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Keep in mind that you can always just buy one motor and a few different armatures to try.
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Old 08-21-2001, 06:44 PM   #81
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Hey y'all,

Looks like I'm one of the first non-RCTouring rookies 'round here, heh heh. Please don't make too much fun of me

Reason I'm here is because I just picked up an MR4TC (used) down at the LHS. Just couldn't pass up the bargain, since I got it for about what the speed control costs new (Tekin Rebel), and I was looking for two of them anyways (gonna run them in my Clod, but that's probably more info than you deeded...)

Anyways, what I really wanna know is what I should check out first on the car, having bought it used and all. I don't know anything about the previous owner, but I'd say that he/she wasn't exactly meticulous. I plan to inspect the diffs, relube the bearings, and maybe put in a new belt. Anything else major you'd check, specific to this car?

TIA. Hopefully, if things go well, I'll be hanging 'round for quite a while!

Later,

Loki
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Old 08-21-2001, 06:49 PM   #82
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Check that the diff are smooth, the bearings are smooth, the belts don't skip, the shocks are smooth and the gears aren't chipped.
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Old 08-21-2001, 06:59 PM   #83
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Also take off the shocks, and make sure all the suspension parts move freely, and that there's not too much slop. If something feels bound up, take it apart, and check that the hingepins are straight.
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Old 08-21-2001, 07:38 PM   #84
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JeffC, if you are planning on running mod at TCHR, better get some serious horsepower! Not sure if we are doing 4 or 5 min mod, but you'll need 3000s either way to be competitive. With 4 min, it's going to be 8 turn, with 5min, probrably around 9 to 10 turn. You could run 2400s if it's 4 min, but you won't be able to run the low wind motors.

Picked up a MR4SP, so she'll see the track for the first time Thursday.
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Old 08-21-2001, 07:58 PM   #85
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Loki, Make sure none of the Arms are broke!! I've had a problem with the graphite ones (mostly due to my driving) Switched to the Heavy Duty arms and haven't had a problem since
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Old 08-21-2001, 08:35 PM   #86
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I tried some nylon front arms and didn't like the flex. I bought a pair of the worlds arms, they were sposed to be standard, but they were graphite! Saved 6 bucks, ka-ching! I ran them once, seem to be durable enough.
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Old 08-21-2001, 08:39 PM   #87
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razzo, thanks for letting me know. I didn't realize you guys ran that low wind of a motor... I'm in over my head in stock, be way too hard in Mod.
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Old 08-21-2001, 09:10 PM   #88
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Jeff, maybe you could just borrow a low turn motor to try, see if you like it?
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Old 08-22-2001, 01:16 AM   #89
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I can borrow Jeff a 7x1 or 8x1, but I think he'll need to borrow more than a motor
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Old 08-22-2001, 01:34 AM   #90
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lol....i dont understand how you guys run does sort of motors?
what kind of track?
how would you gear a 7x1?
im intrested cause in malta the fast guys run 9x2
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