R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-02-2001, 05:44 PM   #706
Regional Moderator
 
daniz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: D-Square Racing
Posts: 3,189
Default

I agree with Speedo. Thinner oil in front will make the car feels more springy, and the car will react quicker (change direction faster)
daniz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2001, 11:03 PM   #707
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: CORPUS CHRISTI, TX
Posts: 30
Send a message via AIM to StMedina
Default

Class project for the week.

Go out and run different shock oils, report back. I will also.

Steve.
StMedina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 12:01 AM   #708
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Wink

Stop it! My Head hurts....
Simon K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 02:54 AM   #709
Tech Master
 
johnbull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Malta. G.C.
Posts: 1,762
Default

Hi all. Greetings from Malta.

THE SHOCK SAGA.

May I add my little bit to this one too, since my set up is pretty controversial and has caused quite a bit of discussion in these columns in the past. Whilst Speedo has a point, I have to agree more with Dave in general. Certainly suspension tuning is one hell of a black art.

Just as a background, I have been playing with real race cars for almost 40 years and built my own championship winning car in the 80s. I stopped racing due to heart problems some years ago and am back racing now with a much quicker car than I have ever raced before.

My brother who also races his own 2 litre single seater, bought the car ready built some months ago. It has a great engine Ė 180 bhp from 1380cc, great brakes, but handles like a pig. Just a look at it and you notice immediately that it is all wrong. I have raced it a few times, including a championship hill climb last Sunday, and it is presently on blocks where I am applying some RC technology to it, in the suspension department.

The car is way too hard sprung, way too hard damped and has far too much rubber on the road (10 inch slicks when it doesnít need more than 8 inch) Ė it bounces off all the undulations in the road and spends more time in the air. Apart from this the suspension arm angles are all wrong but this is going to need major surgery so it will have to wait a bit as we are hill climbing again in a couple of weeks.

Now letís look at RC. We donít have the problem of having too much rubber as we all run 24mm wheels and tyres, but we have such a vast choice of springs and damper settings that we can so easily get lost.

My RC car is a Yoke special basically, but with lots of subtle changes Ė such as a top deck that encourages flex and is therefore more forgiving over the kerbs. Remember I am 55, my reflexes are not what they used to be, and nor is my eyesight, so this set up whilst being all right for me, may be totally wrong for someone with lightening reflexes. My son Ė 18 - admits it handles well but prefers the more twitchy and quick reacting set up he runs on his cars.

I run 30 oil all round on TC3 shocks with No 2 pistons, and soft yellow Tamiya springs. The reason for the TC3 shocks is that they are longer and therefore give more droop. The shocks are set on the innermost top hole and the outermost bottom hole, both front and rear, thus making the shock work less for a given amount of travel. Most other settings are fairly standard Ė bottom arm pivots on lower holes all round, 1 degree rear toe, zero up front, 1 degree negative front and 2 degrees rear, and 5 degrees front caster.

Yes the car may be lazy in itís response but it suits my slow reactions. Certainly that amount of droop and the soft springing and damping ensures that the wheels are always in contact with the road. Also because our track is bumpy the soft springing helps there too.

Now I said I am applying this to the real car too. I have softened up the shocks and springs and already it feels much better Ė still in the garage of course. When I put it on the ground at least the springs compressed by about 1/6th of their uncompressed length. Before it just used to land with the springs not reacting at all. Iíll have to wait till next week before I can try it again, but it certainly looks more reasonably sprung.

Clearly real race car technology and RC technology go hand in hand. I built RC cars using my knowledge from real cars, and I also apply that RC technology to the real thing. Just as an example I built an RC car last year using the efficient TC3 drive train, but MR4 wishbones and hubs Ė all on a flat 3mm carbon fibre chassis. It handles so well.

Weíre supposed to be RC racing tomorrow but itís raining at present. Letís hope itís dry.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
johnbull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 03:20 AM   #710
Regional Moderator
 
daniz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: D-Square Racing
Posts: 3,189
Default

I'm very confused. Somebody help me, my head is gonna blow !!
daniz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 03:59 AM   #711
Tech Addict
 
Yokomo Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: England
Posts: 711
Default

I think theres alittle too much text there

Daniz, Hold you head together or you will make a mess, tut tut
Yokomo Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 08:43 AM   #712
Regional Moderator
 
daniz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: D-Square Racing
Posts: 3,189
Default

Yokomo Fan : Your signature can start the World War III. hehe.....
daniz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 08:49 AM   #713
Tech Addict
 
Yokomo Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: England
Posts: 711
Default

I 've got a new one now Daniz! It might just trigger off something if i'm not careful
Yokomo Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 10:28 AM   #714
Tech Initiate
 
ZyxGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Malta
Posts: 35
Default

Hey Daniz!

For a good speed and grip just make your car soft with some negative camber (experiment with the camber) and low gearing proportional with your track straight and curves for acceleration. Then use your mind for tricky movements!



Regards,

Josef from Malta
ZyxGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 10:18 PM   #715
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Wink


From the Japanese touring car nats. Looks like a new chassis and top deck to buy eventually...
Simon K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 10:32 PM   #716
Tech Rookie
 
tiburshok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wacky Country
Posts: 10
Default turn in

hello guys!

i'm from the philippines and i need help with my mr4.
when i enter/exit a corner the car pushes...i need more initial turn in and more on-power steering....

my setup is
blue springs front / yellow springs rear ; same oil weight fr & rr(forgot the viscosity)

long shock end at front / short at rear

front susp arm on caster block's lowest hole
rear susp arm on middle hole rear hub(team suzuki 1 degree)

front shocks mounted on outermost of shock tower and hole nearer the wheels at suspension arms.

one way diff, one way center

no sways

front suspension feels soft compared to rear.

please anybody.....tell mo what to do....help!!!!

tiburshok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2001, 11:35 PM   #717
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Default

Try running the Yellow spring in the front and blue in the rear. I use 30 wt oil front and 25 rear. #3 Associated piston.(If the car is an SP Kit or Conversion)

Try a Rear anti roll bar set. Start with the thinnest bar and work up from there.
Simon K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2001, 01:06 AM   #718
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Wink

I just had a look at the JMRCA Nationals site and guess what???

Masami won! Chris Tosolini(sp?) was 4th.
Hara was second. PRO 3's running a flat plate graphite chassis.
Simon K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2001, 01:08 AM   #719
mo
Tech Master
 
mo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,352
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default Re: turn in

tiburshok:
Go to my web page www.mo-net.ws and under setup, try the one I ran at the NORRCA World Cup. I think it will work well for you. It is very well balanced and has plenty of steering.
__________________
TLR, Spektrum, Tekin, SMC, MO-GRIP, www.factory-rc.com https://www.shapeways.com/shops/MPP
mo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2001, 02:39 AM   #720
Tech Fanatic
 
kentech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 848
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Here's the final top ten from Japan:

Masami (Yok)
Hara (HPI)
Adachi (Yok)
Tosolini (Yok)
Chai (TRF 414)
Kitazawa (Yok)
Yutaka Takizawa (Kawada)
Toshiaki Kato (Yok)
Yoshifumi Takao (???)
Daisuke Yoshioka (HPI)

Go to http://www.rczone.net if you want to see more from the All Japan TC Nats!
__________________
kentech.wordpress.com
kentech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Race Results Addict sa RC Manila Racers 1028 03-29-2016 09:55 PM
New Yokomo TC, the BD-5 YokomoAmerica Electric On-Road 3801 04-26-2014 04:05 AM
Yokomo MR-4TC SD Cat Electric On-Road 15814 04-18-2014 09:15 AM
Yokomo MR4TC-BD mr.ng Electric On-Road 9094 02-05-2013 02:10 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:19 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0