MIKA

How do you guys "loosen up" your Yok's center belt.
I've tried to do it with the center tie-rod but I don't see any effect with it.
May be I missed out some tricks to do it right??

mo

iTrader: (7)

If you are running the standard or low friction belts, you can soak them overnight in WD40. If you are running the Special, silent belts, there should be no need to loosen them. If may just take a couple runs to break it in.

Speedo

Aiight fan, I'll head over there and reply. It's a Trinity bumber actually.

I just put 40wt with #3 in my yok special when I bought the conversion, and have stuck with it. It seems to work, and I hate rebuilding shocks!

MIKA

MO: Thanks again. You have always been a great help.

StMedina: For the blue:f/blue:r spring & copper:f/silver:r sway bar setup which you've tested previously, which rear hub were you using? 1 deg. or 2 deg.?

Speedo

Has anyone got their hands on the pink springs yet?

StMedina

Mika

I use the 2degree rear hub. I ran white/yellow last night. copper/silver. It was nice too. rear end was a little loose, disconnected the rear silver. What I'm trying to do is stay around Mo's easy and Masami's std setup. The blue/blue was a setup that I copied from Mo's site. I think he said it was very easy to drive. It really is. Could drive it really hard. The Masami was just a touch aggressive. I liked it, but that would be the upper range of what I'm looking for. With Mo's setup, I was able to run consistently fast laps. With Masami's I turned a few laps faster, but not nearly not even close as consistent. I think I'll be using Mo's setup as my std starting point and adjust from there.

blue/blue
40wt f/r
copper/black
shocks camber links in std locatiuons
59.9 f
60.3 r

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

To the fellow that asked about roll bars etc. I see most of the answers have already been given. I run the roll bars because I have the car very softly sprung and damped - yellow Tamiya springs and 30 oil all round, and plenty of droop - TC3 shocks without any internal spacers. i find it very good indeed, and the most fantastic thing is that somehow, no matter how many bankings i ride, it never seems to tweek....which is great.

I did a couple of 5 minute sessions this afternoon, and the car was as great as ever. I really am starting to enjoy driving it.

We have a championship hill climb - with the real race car, tomorrow, so it's an early night for me tonight.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Medina- I think you are right on track, even though I don't know what exact conditions you are running on. I have an idea- why don't you go back to the white/yellow copper/silver setup and put the rear camber links in the bulkhead for some rear traction. Also, you could lower the rear ride height to get a little rear grip too. This would leave the front planted, but add some rear traction to take away some of the twitchyness and looseness. It should also leave almost all of the responsiveness while adding some confidence. You might also drop the shock oil weight to 35 to promote a little softness. That will take away some more twitchyness. However, if I'm not mistaken the factory guys like their cars to be really responsive even though it takes more finess and practice to master it. Maybe Mo can give us some odeas of exactly what the "fast" guys look for in their setup besides the obvious- laptimes.

I really hope that works well because it's what I'm going to run at the regionals (well, start off with). The track is smooth asphalt with VHT applied to it.
Wheeeweee!!! lol

Simon K

Mika,
If you run a rear torque rod and primarily use it to adjust belt tension, you have to file a few things first.
The two holes at the rear of the top deck(with the long screws) have to be filed slightly so the rear of the car can be flexed forward slightly.
This will close the small gap between the top deck and rear gearbox where the two meet above the spur gear. If you want to decrease the belt tension further, file that face carefully so the two can be flexed a little bit more.

Check your cars tweak after adjustment, then mesh spur and pinion. The torque rod's adjustment will also affect your spur/pinion mesh.

I very rarely adjust my cars shocks or geometry as I don't fully understand a lot of whats going on. I based my setup on the very first one I saw from the LRP race in Germany that was the MR4TC's first victory.

Yorkie

I'm about to pick up a MR4TC Special kit and I'd like to know what parts apart from the chassis are graphite composite.
If the wishbones are graphite I may have to pick up some plastic ones to suit my driving style. Me and graphite arms don't get on so well. I know!! don't hit the walls!

Thanks

Yorkie

kentech

iTrader: (6)

Yorkie: Only the chassis and upper deck is graphite. At least that's how the cars shipped here are equipped.

Speedo

The graphite rear arms seem to be the worst!

Simon- do you always check your tweak with the torque rod? It seems that it would cause the chassis to tweak much more easily.

Speedo

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

BigDogRacing- Mo's set up's are pretty dialed. He and Alex were on rails last night. I haven't been on this thread as much since I put the Yok down so I don't know if the both of them still come on this board as much.

Simon K

Josh,
I have my PC on the same bench as I work on my car.
While I wait for stuff to load, I generally muck around with the car, checking tweak visually is something I invariably do every day.
I do it more thoroughly before a race.

I don't know if the rod would cause any more tweak than is already accounted for, just have to check it after any adjustments are made.

micro_man

where can i get the penguin chassis for my mr4tc worlds? and how much does it cost?

do you guys think this chassis is a hop up that is worth the money?

what all does it include.


i am asking because the worlds already has a graphite chassis so would it really be necccesary?

thanks