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Old 10-23-2001, 04:41 PM   #601
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BigDog, using lighter oil will allow the car to roll more, hence more traction. It will make the car less responsive though.
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Old 10-23-2001, 10:21 PM   #602
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Thanks Speedo-
I would rather have traction than responsiveness, so I think I'll lighten it up a little.The car seems really hooked right now, but it doesn't carve the turns quite like I want it to, in other words it's still pushing a little. However, the way I have it geared, I can kick the rear of the car around exiting the turn if I want to. I'm to the point now that I think I can fine tune the way it carves the turns with the droop. I might soften the front springs one spring, so I'll be going from yellow X4 to white/yellow. I think between that and the droop I can make this baby hard to beat. It's already the fastest mod car at our track, but I think I can improve.

All suggestions are welcome- thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 10-24-2001, 02:55 AM   #603
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One quick question folks, Is there a noticable difference handling and performance wise between the Worlds and the Yoke special? Is it worth the expense to convert the Worlds kit?
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Old 10-24-2001, 03:04 AM   #604
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Doc Martin: personally i dont think there a significant differece between the worlds and Special chassis. i know a number of guys who've upgraded and their lap times have not gotten any faster.
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Old 10-24-2001, 03:55 AM   #605
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Balasubas: thanks! But what about acceleration and efficiency? What do the owners say, was it worth the upgrade?
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Old 10-24-2001, 04:52 AM   #606
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Doc,

just get the new belts, they are the only improvement over the worlds.
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Old 10-24-2001, 06:08 AM   #607
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Default New belts

Does anyone have the numbers for the new belts, I've tried to order them several times without success.

Thanks
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Old 10-24-2001, 06:19 AM   #608
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stefan: so all that other stuff is not useful? Just getting belts would save a bundle!
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Old 10-24-2001, 09:28 AM   #609
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Default New belt numbers

ZS-132B
ZS-537B


Doc,
yes that's my opinion. If you go back in this thread, you will find a discussion about the Special and his predecessors.

I'll go further to say, if you want a conversion worth every cent, get the Penguin woven graphite stuff.


This chassis really works and DOES NOT TWEAK from motor heat, like the special.Penguin RC
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Old 10-24-2001, 11:05 AM   #610
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I don't know about anyone else, but I have not seen a problem with the chassis becoming tweaked because of motor heat??? I give my chassis the once over before a race. This includes placing it on my Tweak Station. I find very little variance if any race day after race day.

Doc Martin: I can't address your question directly since I never owned the Worlds chassis. I do, however, own the Pro and I noticed a significant difference between the Pro and the Special. It would be difficult for me to isolate the causes for the differences, but I find the Special much more forgiving to minor mistakes. Also, using dual oneways makes my Special much easier to be agressive in the infield than I can be with my Pro.

When I first got the Special, I tried to tune it the same way that I tuned my Pro, (even running it in 4WD) and it didn't work. The Special runs with a softer setup on the same track. This suggest to me that there must be differences between the two chassis.

Whether it's worth the expense I couldn't say. You'll have to make that decision. I would suggest trying someone's Special if you can.
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Old 10-24-2001, 04:36 PM   #611
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Don't get the new reear belt, unless you want to replace it after 6-8 runs. The pro and worlds are virtually identical, there are no performance differences, except the one-ways, and you could get those for the pro too. I find the special much easier to drive- more forgiving.

BigDog- np...I was playing with shock lengths the other day. I had a push, and was told to lengthen the front shocks. I made them 1.5mm longer, and it worked!

My chassis came with a bit of tweak. When you set it on something flat, the right front corner in front of the batteries is raised just a tad. When I set the tweak correctly, I can't notice a difference on the track, and the car holds its tweak very well.

I have just done my diffs, and various other things...Including replacing the MIP shiny's with the LF yok shafts in the back. Kept the MIP ones up front, cause that's where they seem to bend. One thing I noticed is that measuring the MIP axels with calipers is they are .02 of a mm skinnier, so develope more play than the yok ones.

Speedo
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Old 10-24-2001, 05:18 PM   #612
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Default Back to the springs

You can't just convert the numbers to inch-lbs. The progression of the spring is how much stiffer it gets as it compresses. At 3mm of compression, the spring requires a certain amount of force to hold it there, at 6mm of compression, the force could be doubled. So conversions don't work unless you take the progression ratio of the spring into consideration in your conversion. So in the real world, if you wanted to measure them, you'd need to compress them the same distance to compare.
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Old 10-24-2001, 05:39 PM   #613
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Most springs on the R/C market unless advertised otherwise are straight linear rates. I know HPI has some progressives in their inventory, but as far as I kow AE, Losi, and Yokomo springs are all linear. IF a spring rate is given with a single number, it's almost a sure bet the spring is linear. Progressive springs rates are given as several numbers.

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Old 10-24-2001, 07:07 PM   #614
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Oops, I didnt see the earlier discussions. Thanks for all the answers guys!
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Old 10-24-2001, 07:36 PM   #615
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Just thought I'd say Hi to my fellow Yokomo users!

Jimmy MaC
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