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Old 10-08-2001, 06:06 PM   #541
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hmm, so no help here?

upright shock position-yes the XXX-S does. A guy here has one, and it looks VERY nice on the track, I think Losi has a good car. But instead of using the more upright holes, he drilled an extra one on the inside so he could lay the shock down more. Still, it looks easy to drive, but no faster...

Josh
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Old 10-09-2001, 05:50 PM   #542
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I have a question about the mounting point of the castor block. Using the upper hole gives more roll, the lower gives less roll. I am currently using the upper hole, and I am on carpet. However, I would think that less roll would be better for carpet. Looking on mo's sight, all the setups there use the upper hole. I am 90% sure the reason is to take away steering, as more roll in the front will do so. But I just wanted to make sure, as I want to start playing with the roll centers. Also, does moving the mounting location on the inside of the arm have a bigger effect than on the outside (castor blocks)

Thanks,
josh
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Old 10-09-2001, 07:28 PM   #543
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
I have a question about the mounting point of the castor block. Using the upper hole gives more roll, the lower gives less roll. I am currently using the upper hole, and I am on carpet. However, I would think that less roll would be better for carpet. Looking on mo's sight, all the setups there use the upper hole. I am 90% sure the reason is to take away steering, as more roll in the front will do so. But I just wanted to make sure, as I want to start playing with the roll centers. Also, does moving the mounting location on the inside of the arm have a bigger effect than on the outside (castor blocks)

Thanks,
josh

Yea, what he said!!!!

Seriously, I would like to know what to expect by moving those hinge pin positions too. I know I have to compensate with the shock length to keep the same amount of droop, and same with the ride height. But I'm curious about the effects. I have read the comments on Kentech's site, and it is very informative, but seems a little conflicting with what I have heard others say. I know that just like Mo's setup, almost all the factory setups have the front pins in the #2/#1 holes inboard and outboard respectively. I'm currently running 2/2 holes. Also, I understand that moving the pin positions might require repositioning the camber link- so how does that affect it too?

I realize these requests are in depth and only relative to tires/track/traction/driving style etc..... but I believe I'm at the level now where my driving is getting consistent enough and technical enough to see small changes. Which is the point (I assume) where you have to start whittling away at the lap times. Your replys are much appreciated- thanks in advance.
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Old 10-09-2001, 08:42 PM   #544
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Big Dog, yes it is a very interesting topic. If you want to find out more, check THIS LINK I have been studying that alot, and I find most of it true. So far, I know that using the upper hole in either the castor block or rear toe block generates more roll than the bottom hole. Using the upper hole on the inside, where the arm mounts to the chassis, generates less roll, and the lower hole generates more roll.

Josh
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Old 10-10-2001, 10:42 AM   #545
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BigDog: I did that "setup guide" about a year ago. Would probably need an update It's difficult to make a good "setup guide" anyway but if I just had the time and energy maybe I will make a more complete one sometime...
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Old 10-10-2001, 11:53 AM   #546
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Kentech: ~~~you are now receiving energy that I'm transmitting through your computer~~~~~

LOL- that would be great!

So far my testing has been parrallel with your findings, so I'm curious to see what I'll find as far as the hinge pin/camber link locations. Prior knowlege is always better that blind testing- so I guess I'll know just enough to get myself hurt....hehe

Thanks,
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Old 10-10-2001, 06:48 PM   #547
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I will be racing again in 2 weeks, when I plan to try out all the different holes to see what happens. And then see if what happened was supposed to happen.
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Old 10-11-2001, 03:41 AM   #548
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Just a question for the GM-V12 esc users.

What is the difference between the 2kHz and 4kHz operating freq. for the V12 esc?
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Old 10-11-2001, 05:04 AM   #549
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2 kHz gives you more punch but is harder on motors.
4kHz will make throttle smoother.

Run 2kHz with stock motors and 4Khz with mods.
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Old 10-11-2001, 06:56 AM   #550
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BigDog: Did not receive that energy! Don't worry, I will get it from somewhere sometime
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Old 10-11-2001, 11:28 AM   #551
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MIKA: yeah, what stefan said!
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Old 10-11-2001, 08:03 PM   #552
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I've stopped racing modified for a while to try and get myself competitve in Stock. I like the idea of trying to wring horsepower out of my MVP rather than just bolting in more ponies in Modified.

Oh, and it's cheaper too...
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Old 10-12-2001, 03:41 AM   #553
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Stefan: Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2001, 12:51 AM   #554
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two things

check out this site. stick figures fighting. pretty cool

http://games.sohu.com/fightgame/fight3.swf

2nd. ran masami's std special tc asphalt setup. pretty sweet. car was neutral to slight overstear. went right where i wanted it to go. plenty of steering with the rear end following right behind. very fast. don't know why it took me so long to try. go figure. got the setup from kentech's site. just decided to try it after all this time. wish i had tried it sooner.

thx

steve
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Old 10-13-2001, 01:00 AM   #555
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who saw shuie lay the smack down in qualifying. how about jpm at his first visit to the track. if that don't show that he has some talent, i don't know what does. beat rshue at a circuit that rshue said was one of his favorite.

sorry i know this isn't a f1 board.

but c'mon, car ran great tonight, and then i get home and qualifying is about to start at suzuka. what more could one ask for.
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