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Old 02-19-2003, 08:16 AM   #2521
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Yorkie,

I believe the components to make a diff are:

ZS-507 Thrust Bearings
ZS-508 Diff Screw and springs
ZD-503 Diff Pulleys
ZD-505 Diff Balls
ZS-506 Diff Rings

I think that's pretty much it.

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Old 02-20-2003, 03:44 AM   #2522
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also need diff halves. zs-607 (I think?)

sanj
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Old 02-20-2003, 08:59 PM   #2523
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Hi,

just would like to get some people's opinion for the MR4-TC.

how is the car?
steering, setups, maintenance? advantages/disadvantages?
anything i need to know about the car?
any optional parts that help improve the car?

having so many versions, which version is the best "bang for the buck". things like that. and anyone know of any sites where i can find them.

any help will be apprciated.

Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2003, 10:41 PM   #2524
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My opinion of the mr4 tc is good,it fits my driving style,as far as best bang goes I like the special,you can find them for a good price,they are fast,in some places parts can be hard to get.I have 2 other touring cars,a ft tc-3,and a graphite plus losi,both the tc-3 and the xxxs are good cars also,I dont think anyone makes a "bad" touring car..at least the top co.It all comes down to what you want to drive,The reason why I like my yokomo is from the first time I raced it.it was very easy to drive fast,hard to break,and not everyone has one..at least not where I race.
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Old 02-20-2003, 11:37 PM   #2525
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Default Ballbearing 'kit' ?

I got a used MR4-tc and the bearings are all a little worn/crunchy. I was wondering where I could get a fairly cheap set of bearings?

I am running 25/78 on the gearing, and am either going to run my 15X2(better match), or my 13X2 and widen the gearing a little.

If anyone has stup hints/tricks I'd love to see them.
I'm not sure if this is normal, but the diffs both had to be tightened down, and don't move 'freely', allthough I've heard of problems I'm not sure how to check.
thanks
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Old 02-21-2003, 01:15 AM   #2526
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JANDERS & RACER, greetings from Malta.

As far as set ups and help with Yoke MR4 series cars is concerned, i would think that the best place to look is right here.

Check out the previous pages of this thread for there is plenty of useful info to be gained.

As for set up sheets, the CML web page, YokomoUSA, and rczone have plenty of set up suggestions by the pros.

I have raced MR4s for the last 3 race seasons. in fact i am presewntly leading the National championship in stock. I can't really complain about my Yoke SP at all. It fits my driving style, and rarely goes wrong.

Yokes are renowned for being bullitt proof. I recommend it.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-21-2003, 09:43 AM   #2527
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Hey Mo, it was great to finally meet you at the 'Birds!!! I'm sorry you didn't have a better race than what you had, but it just beeeez like dat sumtimes!!! lol

If I ever get a job at an airlines part time, I'll fly out to race with you and Clint and Ruben and all those other Cali freaks- lmao

TTYS,
Jason
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Old 02-21-2003, 02:44 PM   #2528
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Default Lightweight

I'm thinking about lightening the MR4TC as much as I can. I am going to do this in a less conventional way however. I basically am going to 'cheese hole' the graphite pan/tray(?) and take off excess material on the front suspension arms. I plan on weighing it before & after, to see how light I can get it, allthough it allready has lightweight gears and a bunch of graphite.
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Old 02-21-2003, 02:52 PM   #2529
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be careful how much you "cheese hole" and lighten it, you'll probably make it easier to break. As my car is now with all the SSG parts on it, I had to add an ounce and a half to my car to get it to legal weight.
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Old 02-21-2003, 03:07 PM   #2530
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I am sure it is in this thread somewhere but what is the mr4tc rs chassis kit I have found them for $150 that sounds pretty cheap to me it looks like it comes in the sp box. Is their a kit that you can purchase that comes with the new ssg chassis?
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Old 02-21-2003, 03:32 PM   #2531
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I've got a spare chassis, so I'm not too worried about breakability. It will only be run on smooth-curbless places, I've got a Tamiya for offroad/rough ashphalt. My MR4TC will be track only
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Old 02-21-2003, 05:02 PM   #2532
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bigdog- why fly when you can drive.....Madden stlye
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REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
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Old 02-22-2003, 10:16 AM   #2533
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cheese holing is a good idea, but you got to get it in the right places, the chassis is unlikely to break but it could end up being like a pro 3, and you don't want that! all that flex. makes my garden hose look rigid.

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Old 02-22-2003, 11:43 AM   #2534
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Default I was thinking about a combination

I used to work with spy-planes, and we had a combination of CF & layered graphite with epoxy in between the layers, it was incredibly strong. I was thinking a thin epoxy over high stress areas(front shock arms), or maybe even drilling them hollow and injecting epoxy. I'd cheese hole the tray, leaving and X of unctouched material.
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:49 PM   #2535
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I would NOT take anything to the A arms,The weight difference would not be worth the "breakage factor".
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