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Old 10-04-2002, 11:28 AM   #2116
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I use the Paragon liquid graphite on my Yoke CVD's and also on my plastic diff halves. This seems to help and I don't have any debris sticking to them like with grease. I normally put it on every week as it is super easy and dries in like 5 minutes or less.

I would like to get some MIP CVD's sometime as I have always made out well using them. Probably the shiney ones.

007Yoshi if you fill up the cap with oil and you shock up to the top you won't have any air in them. I keep my set screw in til I just get the cap threaded on some. Then I remove the bleeder screw and slow tighten the cap on. After that I slowly push the shock shaft up and once at the top of the stroke I put the bleeder screw back in. I then pull the shock shaft all the way out. I finishing cleaning all the oil off my shock bodies and then put my springs on and I'm set.

I forgot after I fill the shock up with oil I slowly push the shock shaft up and down a few times to get the air bubbles out and then put more oil in the shock. I then move the shaft up and down a few times and let the air bubbles come to the surface. I do all the other shocks and then I do the caps. I use a shock stand to hold my shocks as it helps while you fill and let the air bubbles surface.

As the Corally/Hudy thing if one can live with copying someone elses hard work and say then developed it so be it. I'm sure Corally already has a new design in the works and won't be copied this time.
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Old 10-04-2002, 11:45 AM   #2117
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The Yokomo Hardened Universals are efficient and good enough for Masami and Tossilini and other team drivers. They are a little pricey but they do last.
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Old 10-04-2002, 12:12 PM   #2118
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Thanks for the info !!

I wonder why they put the aluminum CVDs in the Worlds and SP kits then ??

eye candy ??
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Old 10-04-2002, 12:30 PM   #2119
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LOL maybe so. Well I'll soon see how those blue cvds work out. Has anyone tried those new offset front steering knuckles? OH... and why whats up with the sp rear hubs?? The ones on the setup sheets are waaaay different than the sp kit ones, they have 3 hingepin locations and are very tall
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Old 10-04-2002, 12:34 PM   #2120
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Well, I'm pulling out all of my blue CVDs and switching to the hardened universals.
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Old 10-04-2002, 07:17 PM   #2121
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Is Yokomo going to release a new sedan any time soon?
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Old 10-04-2002, 08:02 PM   #2122
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toso said maybe this year sometime. so from now till januaryI think its this one they ran at the worlds in the warmup race like a ova drivetrain and some tc3 and yok parts
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Old 10-05-2002, 01:23 AM   #2123
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Interesting discussion about drive shafts.

You know that in 3 seasons running my MR4 in mod I have never had a driveshaft failure, and I use the kit blue drive shafts.

Last year I fitted a set of titanium shafts, because the whole unit is slightly lighter than the factory alum shaft and steel outer stub, and again I have had no trouble.

This is because of the plastic diffs of course, but even they show very little wear. In fact the only wear I have experienced was when using the front one way. With that fitted the pins on the dogbone end of the shaft get quite a hammering.

Generally the cars have been very reliable.

Can't wait to see the new car!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 10-05-2002, 09:14 AM   #2124
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The only problem with the blue aluminum universals is that the aluminum end (slot) will wear against the steel axle part creating a notch. This notch will not allow a smooth movement during rotation of the universal. This can lead to the axle binding with the universal. The aluminum is very soft. Check out an old pair of blue universals, and look closely at the slots. If you change the blue parts as needed - no problem.
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Old 10-06-2002, 03:15 PM   #2125
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Can anyone tell me where to get the front out drives for the front ball diff?? I know its not part # zs-501 because those are the same size as the rear... and if I use those it wont fit the front bulkhead. Also, which is the part # for the diff screw and its nut? Thanks
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Old 10-06-2002, 03:40 PM   #2126
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I think the diff screw and nut are # ZS-508, if its a one way unit try ZS-540M (mainenance kit) the drive cups for it are ZS-542T
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Old 10-06-2002, 03:53 PM   #2127
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No I m talkin bout the BALL diff LOL
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Old 10-06-2002, 05:18 PM   #2128
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The diff outdrives are the same as the rear as far as the part number. You will get a total of 4 diff halves. I had Steve at SpeedTech send me mine and it was on a part tree with 4 diff outdrives. You just need to use the right combination to make the front diff. All the other stuff is the same as the rear.

Hey did you run that car this weekend? How was it for you? I would try to help you if it didn't work but I never ran rubber tires on carpet before so I'm no help.
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Old 10-06-2002, 06:00 PM   #2129
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No the freakin track wont be open till the 2nd of Nov BUT I see what your saying bout the outdrives. Whats the part # for the screw and nut? Thanks
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Old 10-07-2002, 12:13 PM   #2130
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just checked me parts list, the screw, nut and spring come together ZS-508 for the ball diff
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