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Old 08-30-2001, 08:27 AM   #196
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Hi guys.

It's me again. Sorry about that Speedo.

Adam. Pardon my ignorance....what is a browser. I know that everything about me is old, but what is my browser?

Goodness, I've tried to log in ten times a day in the last 3 days, to no avail. I'll tell you what though - not being able so spend so much time on this thread i have done so much more work.

Geppetto, Darkside, good to see you all back.

Adam, if you bring the car to my garage I'll dremel out the battery terminal slots for you. It could be causing you a problem, as you say.

Darkside, so who's it going to be at Spa?

We have a race meeting in a couple of hours time so I had better quit and get on with it.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 08-30-2001, 08:50 AM   #197
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Johnbull: Hey how you doing. Are you serious about the browser thing? If so your brower is what your looking at right now. The screen I mean, with the border, the tool bar up top with the "back", "stop", Refresh" buttons and all that. The main two out there are pretty much Internet Explorer and Netscape. From what I have been told, the Netscape brower doesn't work very well with this board. Maybe thats what your problem.

As for Spa, I really don't know. This is the time of year when drivers are trying to prove the deserve to keep their jobs. That leads to drivers pressing and that leads to accidents. I hope it all stays clean and safe. I think JPM needs a win sometime before the end of the year to settle once and for all whether or not he is all people make him out to be. Everytime he gets a lot of praise from everyone, he goes out in the next race and qualifies 8th or something. I will go out on a limb and say that Ralf will win even though he hates the track.
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Old 08-30-2001, 04:42 PM   #198
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johnbull, sorry about what? Yup, Darkside is right. Your browser is your interface with your modem and ultimatley the web. Go to here to download Internet Explorer 6, it is great and should solve your problems. Just download it to the desk top or what ever and double click on it, that should open up the install wizard.

Will be racing off-road again this satruday...My Dad is gone so I get the pit table all to my-self I think TC racing starts in about a month, I'm looking forward to it. My airbrush is in the mail right now too, so I'm looking forward to that also.

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Old 08-30-2001, 10:00 PM   #199
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I had to upgrade my browser too, mine was Net 4.7 Not quite up to the job.
Took about 5 hours to download(at 1.2kbps) so I got disconnected twice and had some error messages come up, all of which slowed it down even more.

Hope I don't have top go through that again for a long time!

The only changes I made to my car after conversion, other than adding anti roll bars, was thinner oil and softer springs.
I run 30wt front with associated no.3 piston and yelllow springs
25wt rear with no.3 pistons(above) and blue springs.

Same mounting points for the shocks.



Anyone seen the new Atlas car?

Last edited by Simon K; 08-30-2001 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 08-31-2001, 01:29 AM   #200
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joe, how about a deal...i come to your place and upgrade your browser....and whilst i do that .....u cut out the slots in my chasis.....
-------
had a meeting last night with 2 "fun" races (exebition races) i know in the first one i came 2nd in the A-main (mod) in the 2nd race....im not sure lol....prolly another 2nd or even a win im not sure....but it was'nt imortant anyways we went just for fun..and we had fun.....btw did i tell you it was in the middle of a road.....yup, the road was closed just for us to race on...
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Old 08-31-2001, 11:25 AM   #201
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Speedo: Thanks for the link to the IE 6. I thought I had the highest at IE 5.5. It only took about 5mintues with my cable modem to download it all. So whats new in it? Other than the new "media" icon in the tool bar and pretty light blue coloring on the logo?

I hope Johnbull gets his problems solved.
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Old 08-31-2001, 01:47 PM   #202
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Hey guys, how's it going? Haven't really been apart of rctech.net until I found it recently. I'm a factory driver for Yokomo. Been with them for about 1.5 to 2 years years now. If you need any help or suggestions, please let me know and I'll be happy to help.

Where I race, we primarily run on carpet using rubber tires. I took a little break from racing in about Feb or March of this year and just started back up in the beginning of August working with the SP chassis.

At first I took my suspension from my World's chassis and just plopped it on the SP. Man was that messy. But after puting some time in on setup, I've got the SP working really well. The SP definitely requires a much different setup than the worlds one did. (At least different than I ran on it)
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Old 08-31-2001, 02:26 PM   #203
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Darkside, no problem. I haven't downloaded it yet, but I might not hearing what you said. I have 5.5. Yeah, I have DSL...I notice that page loading times isn't a whole lot faster with it, but when downloading or playing page intros, it is much quicker.

Dave, welcome! I also run on carpet with rubber tires (stock). Right now I'm using Sorex 28Rs with HPI reds...I may try 24s with greens when I need new tires, but what do you think is better, 24R or 139G or GS?

What kinda setup are you runing, it would be interesting to know so I could compare it to mine. I found I had to run a yellow spring in front and orange in the rear to dial out the push caused by running my pro setup on the special.

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Old 08-31-2001, 08:56 PM   #204
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Would Dave or one of you experienced Yok drivers give me a list of final drive ratios to run for mod motors? For instance....

stock- 6.5
19T- 7.5
14T- 7.9
etc......

Also, what rate are those stainless colored Yok springs? Where do they fit in the color chart?

Do any of you factory guys have a center oneway for an SP that you would send me cheap??? Mine wore out the small aluminum drive pulley for the rear.....

thaks in advance,
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Old 08-31-2001, 09:25 PM   #205
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BigDog, it depends alot on the track for the FDR.

The stainless springs fit neatly in between yellow and green on the spring chart.
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Old 08-31-2001, 10:06 PM   #206
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Speedo, hi. Currently our club is running Stock until mid-September so I've been dialing in Stock. Firstly, I'll answer your tire question. Being as I had to wait a while to get some of my Yokomo stuff, I started on my setup using Sorrex Tires and even tried some not-too-worn Pit tires. After finding a good setup, I mounted up 139G's and there is NO Question that these are the tire to beat on carpet right now. The 139G's maintain a smooth traction yet they are capable of holding higher side bite than the Sorrex tire. I've been told by the team manager that the 139GS's are the way to go, but I'm so impressed with the 139G's, that I'm almost scared to get MORE traction..hehe (BTW, I don't say this because I drive for em, you gotta run what works if you know what I mean) I do suspect that the GS's will have greater traction which I'm going to work on next time I race.

In my experience running the SP so far, I've definitely found more speed running softer springs and oil than I ran on the Worlds and running swaybars (even on the back) in Stock and gaining faster laptimes doing so.

My setup currently:

Front - Springs = Green Oil = 50wt Tire = 139G with HPI Red Insert Shock Length = 60.5mm Ride Height = 5.0mm Shock Mounting farthest outside hole on Tower and A-Arm. Shock End = Short A-Arm = Standard Stock 5 Caster Block, C-Hub hinge pin in upper hole, inner A-Arm hinge pin in lower hole. Camber = -2 (adjusting this makes a pretty big difference in steering response) SwayBar = World's Copper (.064") Toe = 0 Camber Links = Inside middle hole

Rear - Springs = Green Oil = 40wt Tire - 139G with Yokomo Firm Insert (037F) Shock Length = 59.5 Ride Height = 5.0mm Shock End = Short Shock Mounting farththest outside hole on Tower and A-Arm. A-arm = Graphite 1 degree rear hub carrier. Rear Hub hinge pin in lowest hole and Inner A-arm hinge pin in lower hole. Camber = -2 Swaybar = Silver (medium) Camber Link = Inside middle hole

Upper Deck - No cutouts, Motor Mount - Shim on the bottom Battery Holddown - Dan's LTO Strap (Yok bar allows stock-metal-hydrides to move around)

Setup works very well and is faster than running stiffer springs. Try with and without the rear swaybar. Its balanced and easy to drive now. Sorry I'm so wordy..LOL


BigDog - That's a tough one to answer. Track, Mod winds, timing, and many other things really dictate gearing on Mods. In general, P2K Big Track - 6.4 to 6.6 Medium and small track - 6.7 to 7.2. There are way too many mods to even generalize. 10-D try 8.0 - 9.0 12-D try 7.5 to 8.5.
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Old 08-31-2001, 10:11 PM   #207
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dave, how do the 139s compare to the pits????do you run the same compound front and rear????are they readly available yet????see ya around, matt
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Old 08-31-2001, 10:26 PM   #208
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Thanks Dave. I tried green all around, and ended up with a massive push. So now I have yellow up front with orange in the back. What piston are you running? I'm using 40wt with #3 all round...And I have a gold front swaybar and thought it was too much. Our tracks must be different, you on ozite? Thanks for the advice on the tires, I think I'll pick some up!

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Old 08-31-2001, 11:15 PM   #209
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Mr. Losi - How the heck are ya? Is Scotty's track done out there in Milwaukee? Looking forward to coming out there and racing with you guys. Yes the 139G's and the 139GS's are readily available. On our ozite, they work better than my pits did. And I've always been a big fan of the Pit tires.

Speedo - I would Imagine that your added flex must have alot to do with the difference if you are running on ozite. If I cut my Upper Deck, I'm sure I'd need to reduce swaybars and up the front springs at least. Currently, If I put my front camber link in the upper-inside hole, holy steering batman. When I changed to the 139G's from Pits, I gained alot of steering without getting "twitchy" and my laptimes improved. I ran the standard Pit 25/20 combo and it worked well but I wanted more steering in general. My setup seems to work with matching tires. If I didn't use the rear swaybar, I would probably run the same inserts front and back as well. I'm running Associated #3 pistons because of an old habbit from when the Yok MR4 first came out. I think the setup would work with yellow front on some tires but with the traction I'm getting, I don't need em. Our track is big and fairly flowing. Tight track setup would be modified a bit
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Old 09-01-2001, 03:43 AM   #210
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Dave,
I did the same thing regarding shock pistons, I saw the setup sheet from the LRP race that was won on debut with the MR4. I had one of the piston tuning sets left over from my YZ10 and hadn't used the#3 so that was sweet!.


BigDog,
Try starting with a pinion 10 teeth higher than the mod motor you are using, eg 10 turn + 10 teeth=20t pinion. 11 turn + 10 teeth = 21t pinion.
If you run an SP(81t spur) use the same formula but add 11 teeth instead of 10.
As far as Stock gearing, I'm only just starting to run them as a bit of fun. They've only just legalised the rebuildable stock motors here and we are just learning how to get the most from them.
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