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Old 09-11-2002, 05:28 PM   #1951
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Hey MO, what about the Sorex 32R. It would be better than choosing between the 36 and 28. I run Sorex 36R's exclusively indoors and they work the best since the track has good traction. In mod I can get about 1 great week then, 1 good week, but then the tires lose their bite.
Has any body run the Orion JB rubber? I have a set of 35D's and 40D's that I want to try out. Could someone tell me the best conditions and inserts for these tires?
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Old 09-11-2002, 09:15 PM   #1952
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The 32R's are kinda weird on asphalt. The seem to have a real narrow temp range. Most of the time either the 36 or 28 will work better. I have run the 36's at temps ranging from 90 to 160 and the work great. At the lower temp range, it just takes a lap or two to warm up, or I use tire warmers for a minute or 2 before the race.
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Old 09-13-2002, 03:31 AM   #1953
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Someone asked about the Orion tyre. My experience is that it has good grip when new, but deteriorates fast and wears even faster.

I went down to the track yesterday evening. The weather was a bit cooler than usual and all three cars seemed just glued.

I ran my stock MR4 SP on Sorex 28s with their own A medium inserts, and it was absolutely neutral - you just couldn't loose it!

I then ran my mod MR4 SP. This one is presently on Pits D30s with the same Sorex insert, and that too was far better than it has been in a long time. I was beating guys that I usually find it hard to stay with.

My son also ran his TC3 (Sorex 28 and A medium inserts) and that seemed glued too. In fact he brought his lap time down by over half a second from what he was doing last week, with the same motor, cells, etc.

Could have been the track though. Shame it isn't always like that!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 09-13-2002, 03:47 AM   #1954
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Geez,
After reading of the "fun and games" you all have with Rubber tyres and inserts, I'm glad to run foam!

Front 35 and rear 30 work on almost every outdoor track in the country!

No worries with insert A in tyre B(C temp).....

It's boring not having a car to race, let alone "tinker with" mid week.
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Old 09-14-2002, 02:15 AM   #1955
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King pin Q

Im new with MR4TC custom kit. just last June.
recently i always lose my bottom king pin...is that normal? its not cheap 2 buy the set of 4's. any other way it can be saved?

thanks
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Old 09-14-2002, 03:46 AM   #1956
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The front hub can't take too much screwing, and certainly no tightening. Remember it's made of plastic.

If you keep loosing king pins I suggest you get a new pair of hubs, but tighten them up once, then don't touch them again.

Alternatively, try a spot of thread lock, but be careful not to get it everywhere. But it's only a bodge solution. The real solution is a new set of hubs.

I have just put a new set on my car, but that's after a year's racing.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 09-14-2002, 01:28 PM   #1957
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You have to be very careful when tightening the kingpins not to overtighten them. As long as you don't, they'll stay in.
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Old 09-14-2002, 01:37 PM   #1958
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Guys:

I need some help with ride height.

I saw a setup sheet that was posted where the person was running 59.9 mm length front shocks with the short shock ends. The setup sheet said he was running 5 mm ride height in the front.

I built my front shocks at 60 mm -- all I get is 4 mm of ride height.

How the heck can the person get 5 mm of ride height with that length of shock ??

What is the recommended method of changing ride height on the front end ? The shocks are a certain length so I don't see how you would change the ride height -- i.e. make it higher that what it is.

Thanks!
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Old 09-14-2002, 03:17 PM   #1959
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You might need to add some pre-load to the springs to lift the front a bit higher, it also depends on what shock locations you are using and what roll center locations you are using.
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Old 09-14-2002, 07:54 PM   #1960
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I found the prob.

He was using the upper holes in the front steering block for the outer hinge pins. I was using the lower ones.

Using the upper ones lifts the front end more and you don't have to use an insane amount of preload on the springs.

-- Another question --

What handling effect does it have to use the upper vs. the lower inner hinge pin locations?? The stock setup in the Yok manual uses the upper location for the rear inner hinge pins. But all of the carpet setup sheets that I have seen are using the lower inner hinge pin holes in the rear.

Thanks.
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Old 09-14-2002, 11:34 PM   #1961
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King pins....
I assemble just the kingpins and hub, cutting the thread in them the first time.
After that, they go together quite happily. Just make sure everything is straight and level. Just tighten the kingpins til they bottom out on the hub. If you lift the front wheel slightly, you can see if it's cinched down enough.

In an emergency, you can take the hubs off the car and put one small drop of CA on the stripped hole, then gently blow the glue into it. Allow it to dry.
This will pretty much give you enough glue/plastic to screw everything back together.
It's not pretty but it works(on any other stripped hole on the car too).

Newer SP Kits....
Saw one today, 2 weeks out of Japan. There are a few little changes.
New top deck with the little lugs moulded into each side on the rear of it.
New remoulded front shock tower with a Lug/hole in the center of it for an extra body post.
Hole drilled in the rear upper gearbox housing for a torque rod with corresponding holes in the top deck.
They seem to be mods that we've seen on the Factory and the World champs cars too.

Yokomo Japan have just released the Silver carbon chassis for 12th scale cars so I'm guessing the MR4 parts should be out soon too...
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Old 09-15-2002, 06:28 AM   #1962
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I would like some of that silver graphite stuff. It looks so trick on their cars. I wonder what handling changes on the car if you use the silver graphite toplate? I also like the graphite shock towers as well. I think they might be stronger and oh yea cooler looking.
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Old 09-15-2002, 02:06 PM   #1963
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Speedo -- did you see my recent posts below ?

Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2002, 10:35 PM   #1964
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Default King pin ball studs

Hey guys,

Just to bring up a topic that was discussed a while ago....

I want to try the longer front camber links on my SP. I'm having a bit of trouble trying to order kingpin ballstuds. I tried using the part number # ZR-007F but this doesn't exist at Yokomo.

So my question is: What has everyone else used? I notice that the thread on the standard kingpin is not M3 and it's not 4-40, so I'm guessing it's a course metric thread. Coincidentally, It's the same thread that's used on the shock shafts. So ideally the part would be a Yokomo item with the correct thread so you don't have to butcher the thread in the steering knuckle.

Thanks guys!
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Old 09-17-2002, 12:08 AM   #1965
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Dean,
I think it's the long ballstud that is used on the lower front arm of your SP to mount the shock/anti roll bar.
I used them to mount the rear upper arm on the bulkhead on my old SP.
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