Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
#1682
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Billy probably has them, but I think he is closed the rest of the week because he is going to the NORRCA Nats.
I've been taking a little time off racing. Time for some golfing and other stuff. The next big race I go to probably won't be until Cleveland. I want to check that out this year. Should be a lot of fun.
I've been taking a little time off racing. Time for some golfing and other stuff. The next big race I go to probably won't be until Cleveland. I want to check that out this year. Should be a lot of fun.
#1684
I've got some of the anti roll bar ballstuds for the front camber mod, how exactly are people doing it?.
Cut the lugs off the top of the castor block, putting some washers under the head of the screw then fitting?
I like the look of the little plates that were used at the worlds to, I assume, replicate the rear camber mod. I'll try and make some up, as opposed to hacking the top off the toe in block(which I'd no doubt make a hash of).
If someone can please explain in detail, what they've done, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks.
Cut the lugs off the top of the castor block, putting some washers under the head of the screw then fitting?
I like the look of the little plates that were used at the worlds to, I assume, replicate the rear camber mod. I'll try and make some up, as opposed to hacking the top off the toe in block(which I'd no doubt make a hash of).
If someone can please explain in detail, what they've done, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks.
#1685
Simon, I have never heard of doing the camber mods with the anti-roll bar ends. Does anywhere in NZ import Tamiya parts? If so, tamiya makes a kingpin/ballstud for the 414M that works. You just need to widen the top hole in the castor block with a drill, and use tamiya ballcups, which you will have to file a bit of the top off of.
Josh
Josh
#1686
Sorry Josh,
I mean the metal ballstud that has a long smooth shank, then is threaded.
The SP kits have them to mount the front shocks to the lower A arm, then clip the upper anti roll bar onto the ball.
I mean the metal ballstud that has a long smooth shank, then is threaded.
The SP kits have them to mount the front shocks to the lower A arm, then clip the upper anti roll bar onto the ball.
#1687
Rear Arms
I've read on some numerous sites that people are using the old pro rear arms instead of the new ones on the special. How does changing the new arms to the pro arm affect handling? What are the charactaristics that i should expect?
#1688
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (34)
Re: Rear Arms
The old rear arms give the car more traction and make it more consistent on bumpy track.
Originally posted by MauiBuilt Racer
I've read on some numerous sites that people are using the old pro rear arms instead of the new ones on the special. How does changing the new arms to the pro arm affect handling? What are the charactaristics that i should expect?
I've read on some numerous sites that people are using the old pro rear arms instead of the new ones on the special. How does changing the new arms to the pro arm affect handling? What are the charactaristics that i should expect?
#1689
Tech Regular
Originally posted by Chris@WeaponR
For those of you who have the TC not the special how much does your car wiegh? and how did you lighten them?
i myself have a stock tc with the aluminum arms, i cut the braces that are in the aluminum arms and i cut out the part under the motor. i wanna know how much lighter i can go and where to cut.
For those of you who have the TC not the special how much does your car wiegh? and how did you lighten them?
i myself have a stock tc with the aluminum arms, i cut the braces that are in the aluminum arms and i cut out the part under the motor. i wanna know how much lighter i can go and where to cut.
#1690
Oh I see what you mean. Is that long smooth shank the right diameter?
Looking at the inside of the shock pivot balls, it looks as thought the diameter would fall quite a bit short, hence alot of play in the steering.
Sorry Chris, I don't think anyone who posts regularly here has the regular MR-4. It depends alot on electronics etc. You want to aim for just over 1500 grams to be safe.
Speedo
Looking at the inside of the shock pivot balls, it looks as thought the diameter would fall quite a bit short, hence alot of play in the steering.
Sorry Chris, I don't think anyone who posts regularly here has the regular MR-4. It depends alot on electronics etc. You want to aim for just over 1500 grams to be safe.
Speedo
#1691
Tech Regular
yea i know im wierd like that i had the YR4M2 Pro and didnt like it bought the regular M2 and loved it added the barry baker direct steering and it was great, same thing for the tc-special i didnt like it i like the tc alot more i still have the pro and its for sale... this is my story
#1692
Originally posted by Chris@WeaponR
can someone answer this?
can someone answer this?
#1693
Hi Guys,
We have a couple of the new Yokomo MR-4TC hop-ups available online (low CG aluminum servo mount, front sway bar holder, and new front sway bar)
Thanks
Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
We have a couple of the new Yokomo MR-4TC hop-ups available online (low CG aluminum servo mount, front sway bar holder, and new front sway bar)
Thanks
Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
#1694
Het Steve do you have any of the King Pins with the ball ends on top? I believe the part number is ZR-007.
#1695
My SP weighed 1513gms at the weekends Drivers series race meeting.
3000HV's, MVP and large clip on heatsink, M-Troniks Pro digi max 2000, KO FET Servo, Futaba FM receiver, Yokomo dish wheels w/138G (med Yokomo insert), Protoform 190mm 300m shell.
3000HV's, MVP and large clip on heatsink, M-Troniks Pro digi max 2000, KO FET Servo, Futaba FM receiver, Yokomo dish wheels w/138G (med Yokomo insert), Protoform 190mm 300m shell.