R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-04-2002, 12:21 AM   #1486
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 112
Default

Futureal,

The AE battery strap will fit with a little modification but I think you'll find that the AE strap is heavier than the Yok one and not any less wieldly. It is not really worth the time and trouble to fit the AE item.

Yorkie
Yorkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 09:32 AM   #1487
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 226
Default

hi, how you guys mount the motor? is it lowered? if so, do you have any trick to quickly change the pinion there since the plate below the motor mount will be placed above it.

i saw this at stormer - pro front bumper! how this differ to the stock bumper. is it wider? i like to have a wider bumper than the original so when i hit the corner, it will not directly hit the rims and much safer for my servo.
maski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 10:49 AM   #1488
Moderator
 
Speedo's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,431
Default

futureal, Get the trinity one (TC3) , it is also blue aluminum, but the underside is flat, so it can be mounted diagonally. Just drill holes where appropriate and it should fit.

maski, really the only way to change pinion is to remove the motor. It's a pain I know, but that's what you have to do.

I have the motor bulkhead lowered, because with my top deck, I need to have a little more room at the top of the motor so it will fit.

Speedo
Speedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 12:34 PM   #1489
R/C Tech Founder
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Del Mar, CA, USA
Posts: 7,063
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
maski, really the only way to change pinion is to remove the motor. It's a pain I know, but that's what you have to do.
Eh? I don't have to remove my motor to change the pinion. Are we talking about the same car here?

I know I could use strapping tape for the battery but I really hate doing that. I'm not too concerned about weight. I was hoping that one of the TC3 bars would fit directly on if I moved the far battery post to the center position, without having to drill at all. If it doesn't, I guess I'll just stick with the regular Yokomo bar.
__________________
Visit my store: www.ampdraw.com
futureal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 12:47 PM   #1490
Moderator
 
Speedo's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,431
Default

Im 13 and I cannot get my fingers or anything in there to put a new pinion on unless I spend about 5 minutes. You either have extremely small fingers, or have some magic tool I have to switch motors after each race anyway, so it's not that big of a deal for me to take the motor out, hell, it takes me all of 30 seconds to put it in.

I'm serious, the Trinity TC3 strap will work. If you drill the holes in the right places, it will run slightly diagonally, but since the bottom doesn't have the curves to fit the cells, that's OK.

Speedo
Speedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 02:34 PM   #1491
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 112
Default

Well, the rear hub mod worked pretty well. It took away some steering which would be about right seeing as it created more rear traction.
Ran the rear sway bar for the final and the steering was dialed back in giving me an extra lap and 2nd in the B. The car felt nicely balanced through the turns and felt a lot better than normal.

I don't use the Yokomo transponder mount so to change the pinion all I have to do is remove the rear battery post and access is easy.

Anybody have any gearing advice for 64dp spur on a tight track running stock. At the moment I am running 48dp at 81/23 with a Reedy Rage R. I have always liked 64dp gears but I don't know where to start with the Spur.

Thanks
Yorkie
Yorkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 02:52 PM   #1492
R/C Tech Founder
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Del Mar, CA, USA
Posts: 7,063
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
Im 13 and I cannot get my fingers or anything in there to put a new pinion on unless I spend about 5 minutes. You either have extremely small fingers, or have some magic tool I have to switch motors after each race anyway, so it's not that big of a deal for me to take the motor out, hell, it takes me all of 30 seconds to put it in.
That's really weird. I can slide a new pinion right in there. I usually grab the 3mm wrench, loosen the motor just a little bit, then loosen the pinion gear and slide it off (making sure that the flat part of the driveshaft is facing up), slide a new gear on, tighten the set screw, and then set the mesh correctly and tighten the motor.

Regarding the Tosolini camber mods: anybody know what the benefit would be of running just the front, just the rear, or both? I could sit here and think about it but my mind just isn't working today. I have the parts now to do both the front and rear, so I was thinking of doing it.
__________________
Visit my store: www.ampdraw.com
futureal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 02:56 PM   #1493
R/C Tech Founder
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Del Mar, CA, USA
Posts: 7,063
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Yorkie
Anybody have any gearing advice for 64dp spur on a tight track running stock. At the moment I am running 48dp at 81/23 with a Reedy Rage R. I have always liked 64dp gears but I don't know where to start with the Spur.
I use a 108-tooth spur gear on my special. We have a pretty tight track here as well. A week ago Tuesday I ran a P2K2 with a 29T pinion, for a 8.19 FDR. I was about 4 seconds off of TQ with that, and it was the first time I had run the Special in a long time.

I'm not sure how the Rage behaves, though I seem to remember it was more like a P2K. I would gear a P2K a bit higher, in the 7.2-7.5 range, whereas a more revvy motor like the P2K2 or GM3 I would put in the 8.0-8.5 range (on a tight track).

Run a heat, check how much runtime you have left and the motor temp, and then add or subtract a gear, and check again. Just keep doing that until you find the right "mix" for your track conditions.
__________________
Visit my store: www.ampdraw.com
futureal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 04:59 PM   #1494
Moderator
 
Speedo's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,431
Default

You must have better hand pinion coordination than me

I am also on a tight track. Isn't the rage pretty comparable to a P2K2 or GM3?

I gear P2K with a 29-30 on a 96, P2K2 is 28-29 and GM3 26-27. It depends on the motor, I will usually dyno it at the start of the day to see how it looks in the torque department then go from there.

Josh
Speedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 06:15 PM   #1495
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: FrIsKo
Posts: 103
Default

Whats the bst way to keep my chassie nice and clean scratch free?

~Brandon
LiLRCLoUiE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 07:17 PM   #1496
Moderator
 
Speedo's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,431
Default

If you mean the underside, buy some Associated protective chassis tape. Just put some on the bottom, and use an exacto knife to cut out the holes (battery slots etc.)

Speedo
Speedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 07:55 PM   #1497
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Wink

This is how I change pinions with the motor still in the car. It really only works with mod motors as the pinions are smaller. Due to regular maintenance with a pro stock, the motor comes out regularly.

File the holes in the top deck above the pinion so its bigger.
Undo the grubscrew and slide pinion off motor, while still attached to the allen wrench.
Pull pinion off wrench, and then push new pinion onto wrench(While still holding it at about 45 degrees through hole in top deck.
With a finger on the pinion(and still on wrench) push the pinion onto the motor.
Tighten and re mesh and thats it.
Simon K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2002, 08:40 PM   #1498
Moderator
 
Speedo's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,431
Default

Well, it can obviously be done

I have to take my motors out after each run anyway, so it is much easier to do it then.

Any speculation on whether yokomo will have a new car for the worlds?

Speedo
Speedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2002, 12:16 AM   #1499
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 112
Default

Thanks for the spur gear advice. Is there a particular make of spur that fits better than other or will most makes fit the new fixed layshaft Spur mount?

I'm not sure if we'll see a new chassis for the Worlds. I heard that a lot of the top team drivers will be missing. Hope that's not true and just speculation. When ever the new chassis does arrive you can bet it will be a quality kit. Yokomo seem to have the habit of keeping a lid on there new developments then coming out with something that keeps them winning major races.

Thanks,
Yorkie
Yorkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2002, 04:28 PM   #1500
R/C Tech Founder
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Del Mar, CA, USA
Posts: 7,063
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
Regarding the Tosolini camber mods: anybody know what the benefit would be of running just the front, just the rear, or both? I could sit here and think about it but my mind just isn't working today. I have the parts now to do both the front and rear, so I was thinking of doing it.
Hey, no one answered my question. Can't an admin get any love?

Actually, I am sitting at the track right now with my Special laid out in a zillion pieces in front of me. I have a few specific questions that hopefully somebody can help me out with.

I am putting mo's Stockton Carpet setup in the car (2-2-02, the one from his site). The rear camber link mod is mentioned, but how about the front?

Given the mounting hole that is indicated, I am assuming the front IS modified as well, since otherwise that is a damn short link.

Now I can't think of what I was going to ask, but I will probably remember it later. Thanks for any help.
__________________
Visit my store: www.ampdraw.com
futureal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Race Results Addict sa RC Manila Racers 1028 03-29-2016 09:55 PM
New Yokomo TC, the BD-5 YokomoAmerica Electric On-Road 3801 04-26-2014 04:05 AM
Yokomo MR-4TC SD Cat Electric On-Road 15814 04-18-2014 09:15 AM
Yokomo MR4TC-BD mr.ng Electric On-Road 9094 02-05-2013 02:10 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:24 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0