bought the SC10 stadium truck, now what buggy ?
04-23-2017, 03:21 PM
#17
No, it's called actual REAL off-road racing. I've run on indoor tracks with the "clay" surface that's so slick we actually ran bald tires and they work like slicks on asphalt. When you run on true off-road tracks where calcium is laid down to increase the tackiness of the surface, if you set your car up correctly you WILL burn through tires with ease. Hitting braking points properly without breaking traction and then getting on the throttle precisely right chews through rubber like nobodies business. Ironically the tires that have lasted the longest are the ones with the tiniest pins… Splitters. they outlast anything else we've run and sometimes a single set will last you 2 full qualifiers and leave enough tread for a practice run on setup days before races.
A few good friends of ours who are top level drivers will leave every set of tires they run on true off-road completely bald in a single run no matter what and they run 4+ cars. Of course they're sponsored so they don't actually spend the kind of money we would to run that many classes, but they rip through that many sets just the same.
A few good friends of ours who are top level drivers will leave every set of tires they run on true off-road completely bald in a single run no matter what and they run 4+ cars. Of course they're sponsored so they don't actually spend the kind of money we would to run that many classes, but they rip through that many sets just the same.
04-23-2017, 03:57 PM
#18
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Sorry but a great deal of what you've written is incorrect.
I now run 1/10 exclusively because I run outdoors and I can attest to the fact that while the 1/8 buggies are marginally more expensive than 1/10 buggies, the tire budgets are nowhere near similar. For a full set of tires for a 1/8 buggy you're looking at roughly $30 and if you plan on racing seriously, you need 3 sets per each vehicle per race day. 1/8 buggies are heavy and is why they handle so much more realistically than 1/10 vehicles (which are more difficult to drive) and because of that, tires are done in a single run.
So if you run 2 heats and a main that's 3 sets. Now, if you encounter issues and land in the B or lower mains and bump up, add another set for each main you bump up from.
With 1/10 vehicles you can run 1 set for both qualy runs and a fresh set for the main and be good. The same applies whenever you have to bump up and true off-road (non-gummy clay tracks) tend to be more abrasive and can contribute to excessive tire wear, but it affects 1/8 more than 1/10.
And 1/8 is not the go to class for serious racers. That varies from area to area and different classes are more popular in certain regions. Here we have a healthy mic of 1/8 ad 1/10, but 1/10 is more heavily popular by a considerable margin. On top of it all 1/10 offers MANY more classes than 1/8 and you can run 2 cars for the same budget of a single 1/8 car.
And having run most every class, including 1/8 scale, 1/10 4WD is the most fun of them all. It's by far and large the most popular class for 1/10 and we have 2-3 mains for Mod and 13.5 and 1/10 2WD buggy is about as plentiful in both mod and 17.5.
Going with the Associated cars is your best bet being as you already have their Short Course and are familiar with their stuff, but once you're really adept you can look to other brands that catch your eye. With online parts support today, get what you like and have fun!
I now run 1/10 exclusively because I run outdoors and I can attest to the fact that while the 1/8 buggies are marginally more expensive than 1/10 buggies, the tire budgets are nowhere near similar. For a full set of tires for a 1/8 buggy you're looking at roughly $30 and if you plan on racing seriously, you need 3 sets per each vehicle per race day. 1/8 buggies are heavy and is why they handle so much more realistically than 1/10 vehicles (which are more difficult to drive) and because of that, tires are done in a single run.
So if you run 2 heats and a main that's 3 sets. Now, if you encounter issues and land in the B or lower mains and bump up, add another set for each main you bump up from.
With 1/10 vehicles you can run 1 set for both qualy runs and a fresh set for the main and be good. The same applies whenever you have to bump up and true off-road (non-gummy clay tracks) tend to be more abrasive and can contribute to excessive tire wear, but it affects 1/8 more than 1/10.
And 1/8 is not the go to class for serious racers. That varies from area to area and different classes are more popular in certain regions. Here we have a healthy mic of 1/8 ad 1/10, but 1/10 is more heavily popular by a considerable margin. On top of it all 1/10 offers MANY more classes than 1/8 and you can run 2 cars for the same budget of a single 1/8 car.
And having run most every class, including 1/8 scale, 1/10 4WD is the most fun of them all. It's by far and large the most popular class for 1/10 and we have 2-3 mains for Mod and 13.5 and 1/10 2WD buggy is about as plentiful in both mod and 17.5.
Going with the Associated cars is your best bet being as you already have their Short Course and are familiar with their stuff, but once you're really adept you can look to other brands that catch your eye. With online parts support today, get what you like and have fun!
I do not believe I have ever worn out a set of tires, let alone worn them noticeably in a single race or qualifier. But I have never run on a clay track either.
The track I'm building is natural black dirt, and local tracks are built on whatever natural dirt is in the area. Maybe someday I'll check out a more serious racing event, but the thing is that I really don't like competing! Yes, I like driving, and I like the technical aspect. But getting all competitive sort of ruins it for me!
04-23-2017, 04:49 PM
#19
No way. Bashing is REALLY fun and cool for all of 2 days maybe and then BOREDOM sets in FAST!!!
The point of these "Race" quality kits is to race them and when you're on the racing stand for the first time it's fun just to go along the track for a while, and if you don't have a transponder you might not ever wonder how well you are driving or if you are improving. However, once you do install a transponder and begin to hear your lap times and then hear those of others (for most people anyway) you begin to understand that you might not be driving as well as you think you are. And for those of us with a competitive side, you start to study your own driving to try and improve your personal times, and then when you THINK you've done a stellar lap, you'll hear someone obliterate a time you THOUGHT was solid. LOL
And don't think that racing competitively means you're going to get obliterated by top level drivers because most tracks offer novice classes and some tracks that don't get enough of a turnout for complete novice classes will run a single novice class that consists of run what you brought which means you'll have trucks and buggies of all sorts in a single race for novice drivers to enjoy running. Sometimes you'll have the odd moron who will run a Short Course Truck with a zero turn motor and drive like a maniac and ruin it for everyone but usually track personnel will ask that person to either tone it down or leave.
Believe me, you might think you're getting everything you want from your RC cars just bashing, but the moment you run on a track and begin to better develop your skills as a driver, you will begin to see this level of RC in a new light because you introduce a greater level of skill into your repertoire. And if you think you love this hobby now, if you discover you do enjoy mixing it up on the stand, you might end up needing some sort of outpatient dependency treatment. LOL
B'sides, a great part of this hobby is meeting new people and making new friends and those are the people you'll have a great time competing against. In fact I think I enjoy the camaraderie just as much as the actual racing.
I hope you make it a point to visit a local track and see if you don't find it more fun than just plain ole bashing, and if you do… Youre welcome!
The point of these "Race" quality kits is to race them and when you're on the racing stand for the first time it's fun just to go along the track for a while, and if you don't have a transponder you might not ever wonder how well you are driving or if you are improving. However, once you do install a transponder and begin to hear your lap times and then hear those of others (for most people anyway) you begin to understand that you might not be driving as well as you think you are. And for those of us with a competitive side, you start to study your own driving to try and improve your personal times, and then when you THINK you've done a stellar lap, you'll hear someone obliterate a time you THOUGHT was solid. LOL
And don't think that racing competitively means you're going to get obliterated by top level drivers because most tracks offer novice classes and some tracks that don't get enough of a turnout for complete novice classes will run a single novice class that consists of run what you brought which means you'll have trucks and buggies of all sorts in a single race for novice drivers to enjoy running. Sometimes you'll have the odd moron who will run a Short Course Truck with a zero turn motor and drive like a maniac and ruin it for everyone but usually track personnel will ask that person to either tone it down or leave.
Believe me, you might think you're getting everything you want from your RC cars just bashing, but the moment you run on a track and begin to better develop your skills as a driver, you will begin to see this level of RC in a new light because you introduce a greater level of skill into your repertoire. And if you think you love this hobby now, if you discover you do enjoy mixing it up on the stand, you might end up needing some sort of outpatient dependency treatment. LOL
B'sides, a great part of this hobby is meeting new people and making new friends and those are the people you'll have a great time competing against. In fact I think I enjoy the camaraderie just as much as the actual racing.
I hope you make it a point to visit a local track and see if you don't find it more fun than just plain ole bashing, and if you do… Youre welcome!
04-27-2017, 04:23 AM
#20
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
well anyway....I bought the b6d, I have painted the body and it looks perfect, half way thru the build, this is really a fine art , very tiny pieces for these 56 year old eyes !, well it is a bit of a test for me being its my first build but so far its going well, just doing a bit every now and then so no mistakes, I bought the futaba 4pv control but am going to return it and get the cheaper 3pv, I don't think at my stage I really need this 4pv and I don't think my 10 year old boy will use all the functions yet, overkill I think, the 4pv cost $460 more than double the 3pvc $200, so I figure with the change I can buy 2 lipo batteries, ......still learning
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