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Old 01-23-2006, 12:41 PM   #31
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Cherry......I only bought Peter one handout for each class at cleveland intially.....the epoxy came off his 19t, so we had to buy another.....

Even the worst stock motors will be within in 10% of the best.....10% though, when racers are seperated by just a .10 seconds can be the difference.....its no different than having really good batteries...

And Cherry, while I have not raced and won.......I have tuned motors that have won or placed on the podium.....just view the signature....

Like I said, may be less of a factor in offroad......but in onroad, I can guarantee you its a big big difference....you don't win without the complete package....

As for his advise being correct......well, I am pretty sure Mike Reedy, Jim Deiter, Chad Phillips, Etc would all beg to differ........

Go play with your brushless.....

LosiSuperTruck, head over to www.rccars.com and check out Big Jim's forum......you will learn how to do it all there......

Later EddieO
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:28 PM   #32
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If you motors blew up with 767's you may have just had bad brushes. Also if what was the comm dia? If the comm gets too thin it will blow. There have been many "bad" batches of 767's over the years. The motor will seem super strong and then about 3 min into a run it will just melt down. I have seen it happen many times over the years. I do not know why this happens but it seems to hit different batches of the brush. Try 4499's and see how you like them. I personally really like the 767 power but occasionally you will get a bad brush out of those. As for tuning. I believe you get some hit and miss. Are there tuning things you can do to try and get the most out of a motor. Yeah there are tricks but is there one trick that works for all motors. No. It depends on the motor, it's wind (machine wound motors are NOT consistant!) and what type of motor it is, MVP (yuck!), monster stock, P2k2, core etc. What works on one motor may not be the ticket for another. For stock motors. Get the motor that puts out the most watts in the case. Only choose from the same company as orion numbers are not the same as trinity which are not the same as Fantom etc. The numbers do not mean a ton but if you get the one with the better numbers you shoule have a top tier motor. Will it be the best one ever, no. For handout motors. First thing I do is yank the stock brushes and toss. Then I take the motor and tap it on the table to make sure the bushings are seated properly. Then I cut the comm (handout motors are not always cut good) and put a good set of brushes in. I then run it 3-5 times if time permits in practice. Come back to the pits and take 4-5 good cuts off the comm and put new brushes in and go get em. Like others have said batteries are a bigger deal in stock then the motor but these little tricks can't hurt. For batteries. Again only comparing one compaies numbers against the rest of their packs get the lowest IR (lower IR means more punch) and get the highest Voltage you can find (voltage produces top end).
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:42 PM   #33
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if you drilled all the way through the brushes that could be teh problem. it could ahve benn sucking dirt straight to the com.
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:36 PM   #34
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The fastest stock motor I've ever had (by far) was a cheap Integy motor I bought just for one club race. I've bought countless tuned "star" dynoed motors that you pay $10-$20 extra for big races that I've cut the comm down tiny and polished bushings, aligned the brush hoods, spent time breaking the brushes in properly all of the stuff that "wins national events" and it really doesn't do a lot to a turd motor. The Integy motor was a stock, not broken in, not "dyno tuned" (if you can believe any of that anyway) motor that I did absolutely nothing to except put good brushes on it. I didn't even break the brushes in because I didn't have time. Stock racing is stupid for that very reason if you ask me. Pretty much when I learned how to halfway drive mod I've stayed away from stock.
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