silverbugeye

I have mentioned this along with others a few pages back.

I had one that was loose/stripped the first time screwing it in by hand.

Someone suggested using the 10mm stud with the 2mm shim. I switched over to that last week. I haven't driven it yet, but seemed to fit fine.

I remember a thread months ago about the 10mm stud going through the hub with no shim in the SCT thread.

silverbugeye

The tlr 4.0 chassis protector looks just like the tlr 3.0 version, just larger for the new chassis. Space to remove bumper and lock back in like the 3.0.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

If you run a 10mm ball stud in with a 2mm spacer, it can push the plastic into the path of the CVA, which is why we don't include it in the kit. I run the 10mm studs myself, just making sure I clearance the plastic material.

silverbugeye

Frank do you mean you look in the hub without the bearing inserted to make sure you don't see an obstruction? Or do you mean something more technical?

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Yes, and clearance anything bulging with a hobby knife.

Washout

What are peoples thoughts on the front and rear sway bars for the 4.0 on carpet. I will be running on a fairly tight track with high grip. I want to know if I should be ordering these upgrades.

Pistol123

Sway bars are on the kit set up for carpet/astro so I would say yes. Although it probably depends on the level of grip and tyres you are using.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Sway bars and a gear diff are highly recommended.

Washout

Thanks, I will place an order for these. Had the aluminium diff for awhile actually since it first came out.

I've seen setup sheets with the HRC anti squat and toe-in plates. Anyone test these 2 parts out on carpet yet?

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Yes, that's what I prefer for running on carpet myself.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Frank,
Noticed there is no dust cover for diff screw on sr diff and that thrust assembly is exposed to dirt and dust after installing composite outdrive. Very little time on my sr diff before noticing it needed service and wondering if this is a source of the problem. Have you had any success in servicing the thrust assembly only vs removing the diff from the buggy and opening up and servicing the entire assembly? Do you recommend using black grease sparingly on the thrust assembly so as not to attract dirt and dust? I typically use a normal amount of black grease per your video on thrust assembly fyi. Also, I use plenty of clear grease on my diff assembly and remove excess when I break-in diff while it is outside of a buggy fyi. Just trying to figure out how I can extend servicing the diff so any suggestions would be appreciated.

charvel74

iTrader: (4)

I built mine just how the carpet setup is done in the manual (page 74). Still waiting on the sway bars to be in stock. I can tell you it handles fricking awesome on carpet even with the gear diff and no sway bars for now. Curious to see how they will improve my already quick 4.0

Washout

Good to know. I finished my build last night, and I was generally following the guide. That being said I seemed to have run into the same problem as I had with the 3.0 and that is getting the rear end down low enough to hit 16mm-17mm. What did you do to accomplish this? If I put AE cups on the rear, i can do it, but the springs seem to fall off those cups fairly easy. Do I need my HRC rear parts to pull it off?

charvel74

iTrader: (4)

I used the LRC in the rear like the setup says. I haven't measured my ride height yet so im not sure 100%. I have read online other people are using yatabe arena springs which are a little shorter than standard springs. I am still trying to find yatabe (green) rear springs for myself. For now I am using Associated orange in front and the kit rear springs.

RacingFamily

Washout, definitely run the sway bars, it makes a big difference, try the different sizes to be sure of the one you like best, I'm running 1.4 front and rear right now, on a tight track.
To get rear end down until you find the shorter springs use the Associated 0 spring cups.