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Old 01-31-2017, 09:35 AM   #16
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1mm each, your prob not going to want to run more than 3 to 4 mm of limiters, after that you
should start adding antisquat in the back.
Is this for on-road or off-road? I'm looking for an on-road setup
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:43 AM   #17
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think of droop this way...the more travel it has (upward) the more momentum it can build to transfer weight to the rear and off the front end. It was explained to me this way when my sct would get loose on the brakes at the end of the straight.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:57 AM   #18
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Off-power steering isn't as important because you just tap the brakes and then power out of the corner.

Actually off power steering is pretty important. I wonder if its a driving style issue, tire choice, or drag brake setting. The rustler is still a rustler it has its limits. I wish I could take it for a spin then offer some advice. If you have no off power steering and have to stab the brakes to get it to turn then you have way too much rear traction, not enough front traction or no weight transfer entering the corner. (driving style/ drag brake)
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Old 01-31-2017, 02:59 PM   #19
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So you are running onroad and a 30 degree block? What other options do you have? And I don't remember if you mentioned ride height.
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:02 PM   #20
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So you are running onroad and a 30 degree block? What other options do you have? And I don't remember if you mentioned ride height.
Yea 30 degrees unless I swap them out for the 25 degree nitro blocks but I couldn't get them to stop wobbling even with spacers so I swapped it back. Ride height is 26mm front/29mm rear
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:34 PM   #21
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Wow that's high. I run 22 to 24 offroad and 15 to 18 onroad. I usually keep my front to rear the same. But without driving the car on the same surface you are running on, its hard to make suggestions. I see a lot of mods and custom setup stuff. A lot of it could be fighting each other. Like what's a "wide mod" widening a car will make that end less responsive.
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:40 PM   #22
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Yes. Put limiters in the front shocks for on power steering. Try 0.5mm at a time but don't go too far. Any more than 2mm and it's time to try other things.
how do you do this? I'm a noob....
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:52 PM   #23
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Wow that's high. I run 22 to 24 offroad and 15 to 18 onroad. I usually keep my front to rear the same. But without driving the car on the same surface you are running on, its hard to make suggestions. I see a lot of mods and custom setup stuff. A lot of it could be fighting each other. Like what's a "wide mod" widening a car will make that end less responsive.
It's what Jang did to his Rustler on the ultimate rc forums and he won many races with it.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:47 PM   #24
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Yea 30 degrees unless I swap them out for the 25 degree nitro blocks but I couldn't get them to stop wobbling even with spacers so I swapped it back. Ride height is 26mm front/29mm rear
Anza makes -5 degree caster blocks for Slash. That, combined with the stock 30 degree front bulkhead gives you 25 degrees.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:52 PM   #25
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Just wondering, have you seen the mid motor Rustler chassis from Chuckworks?
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:22 AM   #26
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how do you do this? I'm a noob....
Take the shocks apart, unthread the eyelet on the bottom, pull the piston and shaft out, put about 4-8mm of spacers on the shaft and reassemble the shock. This will shorten your shock, so when you get on the throttle the front wont lift so high. I would measure your shock first, then find out what angle of your arms you want, ( a few degrees less than totally flat) then measure your shock again. And add how ever many spacers you need to get the desired arm angle. You also have to make sure your springs are short enough that you can get the proper ride height. No reason adding limiters if the springs wont adjust down and you are riding on fully extended pogo sticks.

If it was mine and I wanted to get serious about real on road racing. (on a prepped track with a Rustler) Like I said Get the ride height down to 15-18 range and 2-4 mm of droop, so when you lift up on the car the ride height doesn't go over let say 19-22. go with the 25 degree blocks, remove the wide mod, get some anacondas or slicks and dope them with jack the gripper, liquid wrench or wd40. I would balance it 63-64% weight to the rear, 37-36% to the front. Make sure your drag brake is set to slow you down for the corners. you can't turn of your not under braking. Might even need a sway bar if it grips so hard it traction rolls. I like -1.5 camber and 0 toe.
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Old 02-05-2017, 05:43 PM   #27
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Take the shocks apart, unthread the eyelet on the bottom, pull the piston and shaft out, put about 4-8mm of spacers on the shaft and reassemble the shock. This will shorten your shock, so when you get on the throttle the front wont lift so high. I would measure your shock first, then find out what angle of your arms you want, ( a few degrees less than totally flat) then measure your shock again. And add how ever many spacers you need to get the desired arm angle. You also have to make sure your springs are short enough that you can get the proper ride height. No reason adding limiters if the springs wont adjust down and you are riding on fully extended pogo sticks.

If it was mine and I wanted to get serious about real on road racing. (on a prepped track with a Rustler) Like I said Get the ride height down to 15-18 range and 2-4 mm of droop, so when you lift up on the car the ride height doesn't go over let say 19-22. go with the 25 degree blocks, remove the wide mod, get some anacondas or slicks and dope them with jack the gripper, liquid wrench or wd40. I would balance it 63-64% weight to the rear, 37-36% to the front. Make sure your drag brake is set to slow you down for the corners. you can't turn of your not under braking. Might even need a sway bar if it grips so hard it traction rolls. I like -1.5 camber and 0 toe.
I flipped my RPM bumper upside-down and moved the .75oz lead weight from the upper deck and placed it on top of the .5oz lead weight on the bumper and OMG my steering is crazy strong both on-power and off-power. So strong in fact that I had to change my front suspension to 50wt oil with Black Losi 4.1oz/in springs from the 40wt and Green Losi 3.5oz/in that it used to have. I also lowered the rear by 2mm to 27mm
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