Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Still working on them. I'll post when the info is available.

RC Junky

Hey Guys!

I currently have a 22T 2.0, 22 3.0 and a 22-4 2.0. Each one of these builds I have purchased ALL of the Alumnimun upgrades from TLR. I only drive these cars at OCRC (Modified Motor).

I am going to pick up the 22T 3.0 and I wanted to get your guys opinion (setting the price of aluminum aside) on what aluminum parts are really necessary versus just for the bling.

These are the parts that I was going to get for this kit:
- Aluminum servo horn
- Aluminum servo mounts
- Aluminum bellcranks & Drag link
- Aluminum front camber block

What do you guys think? Other than the servo horn and servo mounts, do you think that the steering and camber block are necessary?

Thanks for the info!!

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

I think you'll be okay without the aluminum bell cranks. If you run the molded camber block, it can break, but it doesn't break easily or often.

RC Junky

Thanks Frank. I appreciate it!

RC Junky

One more question for you guys -

On my 22T 2.0 I did the brass hinge pin weight (35G) and it really helped. Would you recommend the 30g Hinge pin brace for the 22T 3.0 or any other added weight? The truck is driven at OCRC.

Thanks!

tsair

iTrader: (3)

I'm not running it for 13.5t. Maybe for mod? Traction is definitely improved from the 2.0. I say try it without it, and if you're not happy then buy it.

RC Junky

Good idea. Thanks!

MNiceGuy

iTrader: (2)

I agree with this. In my experience, the plastic camber block is pretty stout but if you hit hard enough in the right spot it will give out. I now run aluminum blocks on my vehicles. In other words, when mine broke I was happy it was the only thing that broke given the severity of the wreck.

Regarding the aluminum steering set, I would skip it. While the aluminum is obviously stronger, it has more slop than its plastic counterpart. Most of this comes from the bearing fitment where the bell cranks meet the rack. For what it's worth, I've never damaged or broken a plastic steering rack on any of my 22 vehicles.

Callaway

iTrader: (3)

I've been really happy since switching to the aluminum rack, but it looks like Frank is also saying it's not necessary. Maybe I was just putting the plastic ones together wrong, but it seems to me that my aluminum ones have considerably less slop. But I get that screw holding the crank arms to the rack really tight---too loose and there's definitely slop. But if I crank it down it really eliminates slop and still moves very freely.

slider3

iTrader: (118)

Been popping off front ball cups. Racing last nite and pop two different front ball cups again. Since I have never pop a ball cup on my Hot Bodies D413 and I noticed the cruved front ball cups were similar to the 22T.

I'm sure TLR will have a fix soon, but you might want to give this a try for the short term. You we see from the pics they fit just fine without any interference with the wheel on the turning radius. I only had to cut off a little on the one connected to the steering. I used the Lunsford straight ball cup that connects to the camber block. You still have a little adjustmenet if needed on both.

SickNT760

iTrader: (6)

Did a few changes to the front end to get this thing to rotate better. Went with a spring one step softer than the blue and added the aluminum camber block (cause I have bad luck breaking the plastic ones in the past). I know the camber block had little to no effect on the rotation but dang does this thing respond really nice to little changes. I also changed my camber up a little all the way around with a good response as well. The only issues that I seem to be having is the same as everyone else with the ball cups but I know those will come in due time. Also I just wanted to know if anyone is having a problem with the ball stud ripping out, the ball stud that is on the front spindle (controls turning.) If not could some one give me a tip on what I might be doing wrong to rip that out of the threads.

WallyRC

I don't have the truck "yet". Next purchase. But looking at the manual, a longer ball stud with a nut on the end should help remedy that. Don't know if there is enough clearance for the nut though.

SickNT760

iTrader: (6)

Thanks I will check it out and see if I could do that with enough clearance. I ended up doing something similar to what you are saying when I ripped the screws out of the body mount on my SCT3.0. I am guessing that the next size up in ball stud should do the trick. Not going to do it today but next time I break I will try it out.

AMessy

iTrader: (39)

I've noticed with the new adjustable spindles the ackermann plates are a very stiff plastic and you may need to use a dap of grease and slowly thread in the ball stud all the way to prevent the first few threads from stripping out.

I had the same ballstud rip out on my SR using the new spindles and I noticed that the top 2 or so mm of thread was stripped and there weren't any clean threads until a bit lower in the hole. When I built my 22T I was careful to make sure it threaded well and have had no issues.

tsair

iTrader: (3)

Nice! Do the D413 ballcups fit the TLR ballstuds, or are you using HB ballstuds too?