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Old 01-16-2017, 03:42 PM   #16
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Ah, so this replaces the KF with a belt option. Should've taken the parallel row of holes down the center of the chassis as a hint.
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Old 01-16-2017, 03:45 PM   #17
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Yes same chassis for both cars
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:59 PM   #18
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I noticed in the manual that the transmission internal ratio is 2.1:1. Typical for 2wd these days is 2.4-2.6 : 1. This should make the car a bit punchier. I wonder if this was intentional or perhaps a constraint imposed by the 3-gear side gear setup?
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:47 PM   #19
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so with both Buggies out now the KD and KC, One is a Gear diff and One is a Belt Diff. Now I have the KF2, and always love shceuy prob wont change. I love the KF2 and how she feels.

Seeing that the Motor is now further near the Rear Axle. what was thier purpose of pushing the motor back on the rear chassis? And shortening the belt length?

I thought with M/M the reasoning was to take weight off the rear and try to equal it out on all 4 corners.

Also I see that the KC and KD are a little longer chassis. And hte KD gets a Alum diff housing as the KC gets the normal. Any reason to this? Going to give it a few months till I get to purcahsing one. My kf2 is still awesome
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:05 PM   #20
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Love the new car and will probably get one! I'll bet if I threw one of the front a arms it would come back to me
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:24 PM   #21
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It's a shame they couldn't get the ratio to work without using the side gears, it's a nice platform they've come up with here though, especially with a conversion between the two drive trains being available.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PsycoB4 View Post
so with both Buggies out now the KD and KC, One is a Gear diff and One is a Belt Diff. Now I have the KF2, and always love shceuy prob wont change. I love the KF2 and how she feels.

Seeing that the Motor is now further near the Rear Axle. what was thier purpose of pushing the motor back on the rear chassis? And shortening the belt length?

I thought with M/M the reasoning was to take weight off the rear and try to equal it out on all 4 corners.

Also I see that the KC and KD are a little longer chassis. And hte KD gets a Alum diff housing as the KC gets the normal. Any reason to this? Going to give it a few months till I get to purcahsing one. My kf2 is still awesome
I'll take a stab at answering your questions.

The KC comes stock with a gear diff because that is by far more popular on carpet and turf type surfaces.

The KD comes with a ball diff more typical for dirt

That being said there is a ball diff option for the KC

The KC has 4 total belt drive positions possible. 2 shorter the KF with low grip conversion and 1 longer. Again more versatile. If the std kf or kf low gripbworks for you that layout is possible and more adjustable on the KC.

Alum diff housing? Meaning the bulkheads? They both have alum bulkheads
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjmurph View Post
It's a shame they couldn't get the ratio to work without using the side gears, it's a nice platform they've come up with here though, especially with a conversion between the two drive trains being available.
If im reading the release right they used the side gears to enable the motor to be mounted so the rotation will assist with acceleration and steering.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:52 PM   #24
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According to the manuals, the conversion kits are as follows:

U7137 Cougar KC to KD Conversion Kit - Cougar KC

U7138 Cougar KD to KC Conversion Kit - Cougar KD
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
I thought with M/M the reasoning was to take weight off the rear and try to equal it out on all 4 corners.
Depends on what car your talking about. The orginal forward motor position was to allow for
enough room for saddle packs. Then they figured out how to run the belt over the top and
fit a shorty in sideways. That became the Low Grip position, but tom and simon still ran the
car in the forward motor position alot on astro and carpet. The M/M came from the search
for more rear grip on clay.

As far as what i have been told micheal ran the car in M/M at the EOS in Germany, then
changed to F/M in Poland, them back to L/G for the DHI.

F/M is the hardest to drive on anything but high grip carpet with a shorty.
L/G is prob the easiest all around to drive but it lacks rotation. Notice this
is how he ran the car on the slick DHI track.
M/M is good but has a weird stall during rotation. I managed to tune it out but not in a way
thats going to help most KF owners.

So in short moving that much mass afects alot more than you think.
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
I'll take a stab at answering your questions.

The KC comes stock with a gear diff because that is by far more popular on carpet and turf type surfaces.

The KD comes with a ball diff more typical for dirt

That being said there is a ball diff option for the KC

The KC has 4 total belt drive positions possible. 2 shorter the KF with low grip conversion and 1 longer. Again more versatile. If the std kf or kf low gripbworks for you that layout is possible and more adjustable on the KC.

Alum diff housing? Meaning the bulkheads? They both have alum bulkheads
Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Depends on what car your talking about. The orginal forward motor position was to allow for
enough room for saddle packs. Then they figured out how to run the belt over the top and
fit a shorty in sideways. That became the Low Grip position, but tom and simon still ran the
car in the forward motor position alot on astro and carpet. The M/M came from the search
for more rear grip on clay.

As far as what i have been told micheal ran the car in M/M at the EOS in Germany, then
changed to F/M in Poland, them back to L/G for the DHI.

F/M is the hardest to drive on anything but high grip carpet with a shorty.
L/G is prob the easiest all around to drive but it lacks rotation. Notice this
is how he ran the car on the slick DHI track.
M/M is good but has a weird stall during rotation. I managed to tune it out but not in a way
thats going to help most KF owners.

So in short moving that much mass afects alot more than you think.
Thank you both, much appreciated.
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:57 PM   #27
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Does anyone think the KC would be effective on clay and hard packed dirt, thus lower to med bite. I am asking because I love belt driven vehicles
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Does anyone think the KC would be effective on clay and hard packed dirt, thus lower to med bite. I am asking because I love belt driven vehicles
Could very well be. I'm torn between the two as i know at some time i'll go back to the UK and go to astro. Still debating whether to go KD then KC when i go back, or go for KC with that 'layout-04' as it'll still have a more rear bias than my MM KF2.

The local track is about to relaunch 1/10th and i've no idea what the track grip will be like-may even be astro? (i prefer astro to dirt anyway...)

Wonder if the opposite motor rotation/lightweight slipper will also help.

Pure speculation either way, but i'm REALLY looking forwards to this Reedy...
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:24 PM   #29
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$425 at A-Main. Ouch.
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Old 01-18-2017, 12:13 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
$425 at A-Main. Ouch.
yea
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