Axial Yeti more Speed..
#1
Axial Yeti more Speed..
Hi guys and gals. Im new here. Just bought an Axial Yeti 1/10, got it used. Needing some help.
So according to Axial, the Yeti was built for speed as well as its counter part the Score. They are both certainly faster than all the hardcore Crawlers that Axial puts out.. but as far as being fast along with any other average R/C's.. no.. its almost sitting still not even reaching 20mph (17mph)on a 2s Lipo. And yes I knew this before I bought it. I know its meant for rock racing and in 1/10 R/C form that cant be real fast. But I bought it because this seems like a rig that will be really fun once it gets some power behind it. And making it fast seemed like a fun goal to set for it.
I'm thinking 40-50mph is not an unreasonably high or unrealistic bar to set in this day and age. That's about where I'd like to see it comfortably running. I want it to still have plenty of low end torque.. maybe even get the 2 speed tranny kit. As I'd still like to have fun with it in the rocks (racing or crawling) as well as see some wheelies. But I'd like to be seeing speeds of 40-50mph without too much fuss and without too much heat or strain on the motor, esc, or battery.
I have no idea what the stock motor is capable of achieving comfortably with the right gearing. Being brushless it seems like it should be able to do pretty decent. So first off what are some good ratios to aim for in the gears? Spur/pinion and diffs. To me this seems like more of a problem with gearing.. but Idk Im a noob.
Outside of that, whats a good motor and esc to get that is reasonably priced? Also I have a 2s Lipo now that Im running. Dont mind getting a better battery. Maybe a 3s? Dont want anything too crazy thats going to fry the motor and esc after 10 minutes. I want it to be capable of running for 30-45 mins at a time at least should I decide to run 2 batteries back to back or something.
Thanks
So according to Axial, the Yeti was built for speed as well as its counter part the Score. They are both certainly faster than all the hardcore Crawlers that Axial puts out.. but as far as being fast along with any other average R/C's.. no.. its almost sitting still not even reaching 20mph (17mph)on a 2s Lipo. And yes I knew this before I bought it. I know its meant for rock racing and in 1/10 R/C form that cant be real fast. But I bought it because this seems like a rig that will be really fun once it gets some power behind it. And making it fast seemed like a fun goal to set for it.
I'm thinking 40-50mph is not an unreasonably high or unrealistic bar to set in this day and age. That's about where I'd like to see it comfortably running. I want it to still have plenty of low end torque.. maybe even get the 2 speed tranny kit. As I'd still like to have fun with it in the rocks (racing or crawling) as well as see some wheelies. But I'd like to be seeing speeds of 40-50mph without too much fuss and without too much heat or strain on the motor, esc, or battery.
I have no idea what the stock motor is capable of achieving comfortably with the right gearing. Being brushless it seems like it should be able to do pretty decent. So first off what are some good ratios to aim for in the gears? Spur/pinion and diffs. To me this seems like more of a problem with gearing.. but Idk Im a noob.
Outside of that, whats a good motor and esc to get that is reasonably priced? Also I have a 2s Lipo now that Im running. Dont mind getting a better battery. Maybe a 3s? Dont want anything too crazy thats going to fry the motor and esc after 10 minutes. I want it to be capable of running for 30-45 mins at a time at least should I decide to run 2 batteries back to back or something.
Thanks
#2
Tech Apprentice
I would not try to make it go 40-50 mph. You could put a 3 cell in it. It is not ment to go that fast. It is a rock racer.
Can't make a Prius go fast.
Can't make a Prius go fast.
#3
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
X2, take it from me I have 2 1/10 scales and 3 xl's. All of them have been built with a ton of aftermarket upgrades to beef them up to the max and they are all temperamental.
If you want the 1/10 to last, max 3S but either gear it down or turn the esc down on all settings. And if the brakes lock up when you hit them the diffs really don't like it....
If it's used the first thing that I'd do is open the front and rear diffs and reshim them, this is for either size. Just because it was shimmed when new means nothing after a few packs and everything starts wearing.
Also take the spur gear cover off and roll it on the ground and see if the spur "wobbles", some reason they wobble like its bent possibly due to overtightening or something, or possibly the shaft is a little bent or off.
Also the foam in the tires holds a ton of water weight so be careful there. I've swapped all mine out to the closed cell foam and it has helped a ton.
Also setting the esc to both come into the power and brake less aggressively makes longevity improve greatly.
On the 1/10 the largest issue that I keep having no matter which rear ds, mip, integy I still keep shooting the hardened pin out. Tape helps a bit but still sucks and I have used red loctite as well, still keeps happening. Mip shaft parts are not cheap and I'm not going to keep asking them to warranty it as it's a huge stress point no matter what they do. Like I said, setting the esc up to come into the power and brake "softer" has helped this a lot.
Tbone basher front bumper is also a life saver.
Just my real world experience with having a couple of them and a 7 year old....
If you want the 1/10 to last, max 3S but either gear it down or turn the esc down on all settings. And if the brakes lock up when you hit them the diffs really don't like it....
If it's used the first thing that I'd do is open the front and rear diffs and reshim them, this is for either size. Just because it was shimmed when new means nothing after a few packs and everything starts wearing.
Also take the spur gear cover off and roll it on the ground and see if the spur "wobbles", some reason they wobble like its bent possibly due to overtightening or something, or possibly the shaft is a little bent or off.
Also the foam in the tires holds a ton of water weight so be careful there. I've swapped all mine out to the closed cell foam and it has helped a ton.
Also setting the esc to both come into the power and brake less aggressively makes longevity improve greatly.
On the 1/10 the largest issue that I keep having no matter which rear ds, mip, integy I still keep shooting the hardened pin out. Tape helps a bit but still sucks and I have used red loctite as well, still keeps happening. Mip shaft parts are not cheap and I'm not going to keep asking them to warranty it as it's a huge stress point no matter what they do. Like I said, setting the esc up to come into the power and brake "softer" has helped this a lot.
Tbone basher front bumper is also a life saver.
Just my real world experience with having a couple of them and a 7 year old....
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Don't get me wrong, you can throw a ton of money at the Yeti to get it to handle abuse. Some people enjoy upgrading piece by piece; adding their own little details to the rock racer. I just keep the Yeti around (in 2S form) for one of my loaner RCs when friends and family come over. With a maximum speed of 22mph, I can stand back and enjoy the smiles while not having to worry which part will fail next. I don't regret getting the Yeti. One of the most enjoyable builds I have ever done.
#5
Hello Yeti's,
I'm still trying to understand spur and pinion gear combination.
Although my Yeti have torque but later on I want more and more torque.
May I ask your help to enlighten me what combination should I use to
have a greater torque on my Yeti.
Appreciate your help in advance.
Mikel
I'm still trying to understand spur and pinion gear combination.
Although my Yeti have torque but later on I want more and more torque.
May I ask your help to enlighten me what combination should I use to
have a greater torque on my Yeti.
Appreciate your help in advance.
Mikel
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Biggest spur gear with smallest pinion gear. Not sure what your intentions are, but check out your Yeti manual for gearing combos, and ratios.
Edit: mik2, It helps to know what your current setup is.
A 3660 3300kv motor, with a 3S strapped in the belly of the Yeti, will give plenty of torque, and speed.
Edit: mik2, It helps to know what your current setup is.
A 3660 3300kv motor, with a 3S strapped in the belly of the Yeti, will give plenty of torque, and speed.
Last edited by rustyus; 10-10-2017 at 04:11 PM.
#8
Yetis are expensive to run, and throwing more power to it will be quite expensive. Set up a good account with AMAIN, your gonna need it.
#10
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
I went from a Yeti Rock Racer to a Yeti TT. I break the TT less than I used to break the Rock Racer. That can probably be attributed to both the smaller tires and the fact that I now understand the chassis' capabilities and don't thrash it as hard. I run mine with the stock RTR motor on 3S with a 16 tooth pinion. I like having the 3S torque for when I have to feed it pulses of power to get up a dirt hill, but otherwise I rarely go past 3/4 of full throttle. I like keeping mine around 20 mph (32 kph) and watching the suspension soak up the big bumps while the tires throw dirt in several directions.
#11
You need to get an Ebuggy, and run it hard. You can pick up a used Losi 3.0, put a 2050 motor in it, and 4s, and your good to go. That sucker can really go. Plus it can take a lot of abuse as well. If you put a Tekin T8 2650 in it, you will get your speed, but please don't kill anybody.