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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
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Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-13-2017, 08:02 PM   #241
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Also check out SMC, They have a 1900 and a 2100 kv and are only $70
Nice! I have been using HobbyStar's newer pro 540 super stock and mid line lately and have been blown away with their performance, qaulity and they look great $42. Their 1/8th scale company motors are under $70 as well.
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:48 AM   #242
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Nice! I have been using HobbyStar's newer pro 540 super stock and mid line lately and have been blown away with their performance, qaulity and they look great $42. Their 1/8th scale company motors are under $70 as well.
I run the SMC 2100KV in my eb48.3 on 17t, and the 1900kv in my truggy on 18t. Both vehicles are beasts, if the driver was better, I they would really shine.

I also run the SMC 4500kv motor in mt sct. I doubt you can find a better performance to cost ratio out there.

All 3 are paired with RX8 Gen 2's
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:49 AM   #243
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I built my new kit last night, everything went good, and a big thanks to whoever came up with the chainsaw file method it worked like a charm! the only issue I had and still havent resolved is the bleeder cap orings, I got 2 of them on the bolts and the other 2 ripped apart on me,,,, anyone know the size of the oring ? i would like to track them down at a hardware or auto shop because my dealer wont have them for a week.

Last edited by barbwire44; 01-16-2017 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:10 AM   #244
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Completed my build last night as well. Build went great. Reaming was straight forward and pretty easy. I won't get to test my buggy on the track until we thaw out :]
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:29 AM   #245
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Originally Posted by barbwire44 View Post
I built my new kit last night, everything went good, and a big thanks to whoever came up with the chainsaw file method it worked like a charm! the only issue I had and still havent resolved is the bleeder cap orings, I got 2 of them on the bolts and the other 2 ripped apart on me,,,, anyone know the size of the oring ? i would like to track them down at a hardware or auto shop because my dealer wont have them for a week. Oh and one other small hiccup in the build, on the c-block on the rear diff I could not get the plastic tray to line up without grinding on the corner of the receiver box, it was contacting the cap screw in the C block ? I got it to work but was thinking there had to be a better way?
When you pulled the oring over the screw, I dont' recall if the manual addresses this, but did you:

- Oil the oring
- stretch it slightly with a needle nose smooth pliers or something similar

I did that with mine as I recall from my days on another vehicle that if you run something threaded into the oring it could tear the ring if they were say cold, not stretched, and not oiled.

For the C-block, issue, are you saying the cap screw didn't sit flush with the C block mount? Can you take a pic?
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:56 AM   #246
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
When you pulled the oring over the screw, I dont' recall if the manual addresses this, but did you:

- Oil the oring
- stretch it slightly with a needle nose smooth pliers or something similar

I did that with mine as I recall from my days on another vehicle that if you run something threaded into the oring it could tear the ring if they were say cold, not stretched, and not oiled.

For the C-block, issue, are you saying the cap screw didn't sit flush with the C block mount? Can you take a pic?

yes I had oiled the oring with slime, and after the first one tore I stretched the next one by sliding it on a tapered seal pick and it went over the screw but because i stretched it-it tore upon entering the hole ..lol it was too big at that point.
C block was my fault I totally put it on backwards..lol! so no issue there anymore, too many beverages during the build.

Last edited by barbwire44; 01-16-2017 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 01-16-2017, 03:57 PM   #247
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lol I know that feeling, running late night builds and all.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:20 PM   #248
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Oh
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Originally Posted by barbwire44 View Post
I built my new kit last night, everything went good, and a big thanks to whoever came up with the chainsaw file method it worked like a charm! the only issue I had and still havent resolved is the bleeder cap orings, I got 2 of them on the bolts and the other 2 ripped apart on me,,,, anyone know the size of the oring ? i would like to track them down at a hardware or auto shop because my dealer wont have them for a week.
Tekno had the seal kit in stock last time I looked.
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:34 PM   #249
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I'm new so if this is a dumb question please excuse, can I convert a .3 to a .4
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:23 PM   #250
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I'm new so if this is a dumb question please excuse, can I convert a .3 to a .4
Of course. Though I believe the main upgrade people have been jumping on is the new steering setup of the .4
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:30 PM   #251
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Originally Posted by barbwire44 View Post
yes I had oiled the oring with slime, and after the first one tore I stretched the next one by sliding it on a tapered seal pick and it went over the screw but because i stretched it-it tore upon entering the hole ..lol it was too big at that point.
C block was my fault I totally put it on backwards..lol! so no issue there anymore, too many beverages during the build.
I think you could make a temporary gasket from a wide rubber band or thin rubber from old tire. poke hole in it, insert screw. Snug screw lightly and trim off excess. Maybe use a screw with larger flat head. Anyway, something temporary would get you buy a few days.

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I'm new so if this is a dumb question please excuse, can I convert a .3 to a .4
The easy answer is yes. With enough money it can be done. Best to sell and buy new IMHO. Or just upgrade as parts need to be replaced. I don't see much advantage in front end parts, but the rear arms, hubs and such might help lock rear down more. Just my opinion.
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:30 PM   #252
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I have been having trouble getting the mesh right between the ring and pinion in the front and rear gearboxes. For the rear I was able to remove the ring gear from the diff housing several times and reseat it. Then with both shims on the non gear side I finally got a smooth mesh by seemingly just tinkering until it worked. For the front the best I can get is again both shims on non gear side but with a little bind in one spot and I cannot get it to go away. Made sure screws were not overly tight on the diff as I thought maybe that could cause a bind. Never had a problem on eb48.2 as I did plenty of diff rebuilds and I think I know what I'm doing. I'm no expert however. Any ideas? Any one else have a mesh problem?
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:21 AM   #253
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I have been having trouble getting the mesh right between the ring and pinion in the front and rear gearboxes. For the rear I was able to remove the ring gear from the diff housing several times and reseat it. Then with both shims on the non gear side I finally got a smooth mesh by seemingly just tinkering until it worked. For the front the best I can get is again both shims on non gear side but with a little bind in one spot and I cannot get it to go away. Made sure screws were not overly tight on the diff as I thought maybe that could cause a bind. Never had a problem on eb48.2 as I did plenty of diff rebuilds and I think I know what I'm doing. I'm no expert however. Any ideas? Any one else have a mesh problem?
Is it something you think would go away if you ran the diffs in or do you feel its a bind that is more than just say a burr on the metal parts?
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:27 AM   #254
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The front/rear diffs are tighter in the .4. You did the right thing. Just run it some and it should smooth out. I pre-ran my kit for 10 minutes on the stand at 35% throttle and could hear it get smoother during.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:57 AM   #255
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Is it something you think would go away if you ran the diffs in or do you feel its a bind that is more than just say a burr on the metal parts?
Well I am not sure. I might be crazy but it seems like on 1/3 or so of the ring gear rotation the ring gear gets physically closer to the pinion and I can feel it bind up. Now in no way is the bind preventing motion it is just much more noticeable than other spots of the rotation.
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