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Old 08-10-2017, 12:48 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-12-2017, 04:13 PM   #211
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Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Hello Cain,
To obtain the highest durability we chose 100% nylon on the arms and unfortunately the shrink rate with this material is somewhat high. We worked with manufacturing to try to eliminate the need for reaming and could not come up with a solution.

Glass filled arms (that many other manufacturers use) require less reaming but are not as durable. Hopefully, the increased durability outweighs the need to ream the arms.

I personally use the chainsaw file with a drill, others like the hudy reamer or the #19 drill bit. It's mostly personal preference. 5/32 chainsaw file is 3.97mm and slightly smaller than the 4.0mm hinge pin. Recommend moving the arm around a little while using the file with a drill. This will help enlarge the hinge pin hole slightly. Goal is to enlarge the hole just enough for the hinge pin to fall through by gravity (and maybe a slight tap) alone. Reaming it too far will cause excessive slop in the suspension.

Thanks for the info, I'll give the chainsaw file a look as I rather have it a hair too small versus too big and then have slop all over the place.
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:34 PM   #212
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Anyone get more information on the clearance issues with the front hinge pins near the inner surface of the wheels ? Just wondering.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:20 PM   #213
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I don't understand why people are complaining. Reaming arms has been part of this hobby for a long time. Is it hard to ream one end flip it over and ream the other? If the hinge pin won't slide through smooth, I suppose you can complain but if it slides through then what is the problem?
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Old 01-13-2017, 04:26 AM   #214
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I was not to keen on drilling/reaming the arms all the way through. Like someone mentioned, the pin will go in nicely if only inserted into 1 ear at a time. That got me thinking and decided to try something different. I got my #19 drill and only drill 1 ear out but left the other alone. The amount of material remove was just enough to get the pin to almost fall through but still had that just right feel. If you decide to do it this way try and do the same ear side on both arms. If you still feel like you need a bit more clearance try a #18 drill next. I did not run the drill fast in forward. As I was drilling the drill was being pull while cutting at the same time if that makes sense. I then ran it backwards full throttle to get a polish effect. I really liked the way they turned out with this method.
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Old 01-13-2017, 04:27 AM   #215
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I put together all three diffs last night. I didn't have to use any shims in my .4 kit. I remember with my .3 i used one set of shims for front and rear diffs. The front and rear were so tight already, there was really no need at all. Anyone else experience this too?
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:02 AM   #216
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I put together all three diffs last night. I didn't have to use any shims in my .4 kit. I remember with my .3 i used one set of shims for front and rear diffs. The front and rear were so tight already, there was really no need at all. Anyone else experience this too?
I'll 2nd that. I had the shims all ready to go expecting to need them. The diffs fit so nice with almost zero play. I was like "nice"! One thing I wish they had but is not a big deal, bearings for the sway bars. Coming from another kit that had this setup I really appreciated that. Obv no where near a big deal.
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:17 AM   #217
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Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Hello Jmcelroy42,
I might have missed it but what are the dimensions of the track you run on? 17t on the .3 and 15 on the .4 is quite low gearing. Meaning it should be running this gearing on a very small track. If you are running on a larger track, we recommend going to a larger pinion as 4 pole motors can generate excessive heat if the RPMs are too high. We pretty much run 16 or 17 on all tracks with a T8 1900.

Also, a T8i might not be the best motor if you are running into heat issues. you might need to be using a T8.

Another issue could be the motor is old. Over time the magnets lose their strength causing you to push the motor harder, generating more heat.

165 degrees F is not excessively hot and you should be fine as long as temps do not go over 200 too regularly. I've seen Tekins go up to 300 and still be fine.
Thanks for the reply. I don't know the size of the track but here is a video from an older layout.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tGH5mlT87Y

I know 165 isn't anything to worry about, but since I have a fan and heatsink on it it would have been higher, and yes it probably is getting to be a little older. Also in my .3 with the same setup and 17t pinion it was usually only around 120ish.
I am a big fan of running lighter weight buggies, thats why I run the T8i and a relatively small 4500mAh battery. I Came from a MIP Pro8 and since then I've run my EB48's all as lightweight (ish) as I can.

I will try venting the body first and then if i need to try fitting the 14t pinion. thanks again.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:21 AM   #218
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Perfect example of where the SL buggies work best. So why use the .4 instead of the SL kit? SL kit should be lighter like the Pro8? If the .4 is heavier, that could be why motor temps are up.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:56 AM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I don't understand why people are complaining. Reaming arms has been part of this hobby for a long time. Is it hard to ream one end flip it over and ream the other? If the hinge pin won't slide through smooth, I suppose you can complain but if it slides through then what is the problem?
They won't slide through, that's the problem. The two ends aren't perfectly aligned it seems. That said, get them close and they will break in after a couple of runs.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:08 AM   #220
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Perfect example of where the SL buggies work best. So why use the .4 instead of the SL kit? SL kit should be lighter like the Pro8? If the .4 is heavier, that could be why motor temps are up.
The difference in weight of the SL setup and how my .3 was setup is very minimal. Suzukipro/Eric at my track has one and with the same battery it was less than 100g difference, and he even has a bunch of Al screws in his (I have the exact numbers written down, I will try and find them). So I prefer having the durability of the full size kit, as well as having the latest performance upgrades that the .4 offers. If I cant get it to work I have no problem buying a full size motor.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:15 AM   #221
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Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I don't understand why people are complaining. Reaming arms has been part of this hobby for a long time. Is it hard to ream one end flip it over and ream the other? If the hinge pin won't slide through smooth, I suppose you can complain but if it slides through then what is the problem?
I've reamed many arms over the past 30 years. This was the first time I found an arm that was unreamable. my reamer wouldn't touch it. But the file worked great. I should have sent you my arms and my reamer and have you go at it. I spent an hour on one arm and got nowhere. It was like trying to saw a car tire in half with a stick. I even took the reamer bit out and stuck it in my drill. Then I froze the arm to make it harder in hopes of being able to get it to cut. Its a brand new Hudy reamer. The chainsaw file worked in a matter of seconds. Just trying to give people a heads up so when they build the kit they know how to get it right. And the problem is, the pin wont slide through. When the mold cools the two ends of the arm angle in toward the center and makes the holes offset, so its not a straight shot through the arm.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:39 AM   #222
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Anyone get more information on the clearance issues with the front hinge pins near the inner surface of the wheels ? Just wondering.
I checked mine last night with Sworkz brand wheels and it was fine. Other brands, who knows? The front nut seems to be the problem. The back one has plenty of room.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:40 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I don't understand why people are complaining. Reaming arms has been part of this hobby for a long time. Is it hard to ream one end flip it over and ream the other? If the hinge pin won't slide through smooth, I suppose you can complain but if it slides through then what is the problem?
Its most likely due to comparison to other kits that you don't have to do this too. The explaination though about it being more durable and hence you may need to ream I am fine with. If its not mentioned in the manual already, maybe that is something worth stating to have on hand when doing assembly for optimal results.

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I've reamed many arms over the past 30 years. This was the first time I found an arm that was unreamable. my reamer wouldn't touch it. But the file worked great. I should have sent you my arms and my reamer and have you go at it. I spent an hour on one arm and got nowhere. It was like trying to saw a car tire in half with a stick. I even took the reamer bit out and stuck it in my drill. Then I froze the arm to make it harder in hopes of being able to get it to cut. Its a brand new Hudy reamer. The chainsaw file worked in a matter of seconds. Just trying to give people a heads up so when they build the kit they know how to get it right. And the problem is, the pin wont slide through. When the mold cools the two ends of the arm angle in toward the center and makes the holes offset, so its not a straight shot through the arm.
At least on the EB48.2 and the current SCT410.3 that has been my experience is that I can't get a reamer on its own to get it smooth. Even did the same thing putting the reamer bit in to a drill but no go.

I think though just stating that would be a great tip to have in the manual and state the benefits too of the design as I think in all the time I ran a variety of tekno vehicles,I think I broke 1 set of a-arms. (now watch I jinx myself lol)
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:48 AM   #224
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lol, jinx. Now you did it. I think its a great kit. I've never built a Tekno before. I've always just seen them kicking my butt all over the track. I just see these minor "fitment issues" more like "build tips"
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:23 AM   #225
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So is a 1900KV motor the ticket or lower?
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